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Model Car Sunday!!!!!!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by JamesG, Jan 15, 2006.

  1. JamesG
    Joined: Nov 5, 2003
    Posts: 5,249

    JamesG
    Member

    Well, here goes. Haven't submitted anything in while, I got board and through the little A p/u together today.

    The chopped T coupe is a resin that I'm considering channeling way down and moving the body back some.....
     

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  2. KnuckleDragger
    Joined: Aug 21, 2004
    Posts: 536

    KnuckleDragger
    Member

    Those look bad ass. I really like your display area also..

    Jonney
     
  3. Johnny Ace
    Joined: Jul 20, 2002
    Posts: 2,200

    Johnny Ace
    Member

    1Low.....
    Not sure if this question has ever been asked before, but what do you do with all these finished pieces?
    Johnny
     
  4. Automotive Stud
    Joined: Sep 26, 2004
    Posts: 4,387

    Automotive Stud
    Member

    I've got a totally unrelated question (as usual :p ) I hear guys wanting to redo or restore thier old resin kits, I've got a few that could use that treatment. How do you get them back apart without destroying them?
     
  5. Chad s
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,717

    Chad s
    Member

    Resin is impervious to laquer thinner. Carefully remove any plastic parts by cracking the glue joints. Soak the rest in laquer thinner, and it will break up any superglue or epoxy joints enough to easily dissassemble, and you can strip the paint at the same time. Test a small area on the resin first, but I havnt come across a resin caster whos product wasnt "lacquer proof".
     
  6. Johnny Ace
    Joined: Jul 20, 2002
    Posts: 2,200

    Johnny Ace
    Member

    A.S.,
    My experience with various attempts to re-do resin, and the success or failure of, depended on the way the stuff was built originally....Since all resin shrinks somewhat over time, clear two-part epoxy sometimes snapped apart at the joined surfaces....provided no pins were used. A heat gun's lowest setting, for only a few seconds, will help facilitate the job...
    Two-part putties (such as plumber's putty) would pretty much require the finest coping saw for pins or X-Acto sawblade to get through finer parts.....

    If you were asking about old paint removal, I've used PineSol, but prefer hot water and a firm brush, with whatever sanding was required...then a re-primer to cover whatever deep details couldn't be reached....

    Hope at least some of this helps....

    PS...great tips from Chad S.....Good point about removing any styrene parts...of course, no heat gun there!
     
  7. Automotive Stud
    Joined: Sep 26, 2004
    Posts: 4,387

    Automotive Stud
    Member

    Thanks for those tips guys. FWIW I have removed old paint by soaking parts in super clean for about an hour.
     
  8. JamesG
    Joined: Nov 5, 2003
    Posts: 5,249

    JamesG
    Member


    LOL, funny you should ask. most get parted out to build new ones!......

    I really should stop that and put them on a shelve.
     
  9. Johnny Ace
    Joined: Jul 20, 2002
    Posts: 2,200

    Johnny Ace
    Member

    What scale is the Chopped T ?
     
  10. Chad s
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,717

    Chad s
    Member

    Someone asked about the best flathead kit in 1/25th scale a few weeks ago, and that inspired me to build up a display engine using parts from Replicas & Miniatures Co. of Maryland. This is all I have done so far. The carbs and heads are from Model Car Garage, but the rest is all RMCoM. The eddie meyer intake riser fits better when pushed fully into place. The carbs will probably be painted Alclad Chrome, or Model Masters Bronze. There is full photoetched linkage that goes on the carbs as well. Additonal parts not shown from the RMCoM line are the generator and respective pulley, starter, dip stick tube, oil pan, crank pulley, and carb scoops, belt, and Fenton headers. The heads will be detailed with R.B. Motion turned aluminum acorn nuts, spark plugs, and angled boots. The distributer/plugs will be done in detail master ignition wire. Model Car Garage makes a flathead fan kit as well.[​IMG]
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  11. Johnny Ace
    Joined: Jul 20, 2002
    Posts: 2,200

    Johnny Ace
    Member

     
  12. Chad s
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,717

    Chad s
    Member

     
  13. JamesG
    Joined: Nov 5, 2003
    Posts: 5,249

    JamesG
    Member


    1/25 scale.
     
  14. Chad s
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,717

    Chad s
    Member

    Here are some taillight designs I was working on for adding to my small line of turned aluminum parts. It takes way too much time to make these parts, so after showing them to Norman of Replicas & Miniatures Co. of MD, it looks like hes going to be casting them for his line. The aluminum "chrome" parts will be resin and would need to be painted or sent out for chroming (the newer Alclad chrome paints often look even better than chrome vacuum plating). The black base part would get glued on and moulded into the body, and the "chrome" rings are actualy cup shaped, and fit into the black body part, and then the red lense fits into the chrome ring. The resin cast lenses will come in transparent red resin. The first "caddy" style taillight is already at norms shop for molds, and the second one with the blue dot was just finished yesterday. I am also going to make a blue dot lense for the first version as well. I still have a few more designs planned. If these make it into the RMCoM line, it should be a few months before they are available.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  15. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,550

    Anderson
    Member

    Very cool Chad. I need to talk to you about a set of hubcaps.

    Here's a couple '32's I started today. Cut the three window apart to make the 5 window work better with the RMCoM frame (thanks Chad!)...then I had to do something with the leftovers. The second will use an RMCoM sectioned grill shell, will have four strombergs, (thanks Chad!!) and Bobbleed style headers.

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  16. Chad s
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,717

    Chad s
    Member

     
  17. Chad s
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,717

    Chad s
    Member

    Oh Eric,

    I saw your post on HHMB on a search for headers. I can post some pics if you want of a set of headers I made a while back for my green deuce project I never finished, from solder and aluminum tubing. They wernt too hard to make, and I think you may be happier with the solder/aluminum method than a kit piece. And where did you get those hood sides with the 4 wide vents?
     
  18. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,550

    Anderson
    Member

    They are from the AMT '32 Chevy kit. They'll obviously have to be trimmed up some more, but it'll work out. The original plan was something like the So-What coupe, and while that plan has changed, the hood sides stay!
     
  19. Rusty
    Joined: Mar 4, 2004
    Posts: 9,485

    Rusty
    Member

    Yall amaze me. To do this with metal is one thing but to make it work and look rite in plastic is definalty a work of art. Fidgiter with all that talent on these models you need to go ahead and nock out your ride. It shows in the craftmenship of your models that you can do it.
     
  20. Katuna
    Joined: Feb 25, 2005
    Posts: 1,822

    Katuna
    Member
    from Clovis,Ca.

    Man, just when I think about getting back into building again, I see some of the stuff on here and it makes me want to just put everything back in the closet! That stuff is just bitchin.

    Does/did anyone ever make single bar flipper hubcaps? I need a pair for a taildragger I'm starting. 1/25th of course.
     
  21. JamesG
    Joined: Nov 5, 2003
    Posts: 5,249

    JamesG
    Member


    Yea, I think they came with the '40 Ford sedan delivery kit's.

    Speaking of, here's a taildragger that I started.
     

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  22. Katuna
    Joined: Feb 25, 2005
    Posts: 1,822

    Katuna
    Member
    from Clovis,Ca.

    Sweet 'dragger. Is the 40 SD a current kit?
     
  23. How you guys can make the plastic do whatever you want it to is simply amazing. The detail on that flathead is awesome!:eek:


    Here are some poor quality pics of a '60 I just did:
     

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  24. JamesG
    Joined: Nov 5, 2003
    Posts: 5,249

    JamesG
    Member


    Not sure.Try Ebay.
     
  25. JamesG
    Joined: Nov 5, 2003
    Posts: 5,249

    JamesG
    Member

    Another I dug out that I'm going to finally finish....

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  26. Zed
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 952

    Zed
    Member
    from FRANCE

    The Modelhaus has them too...:D
     
  27. stratocaster
    Joined: Sep 21, 2005
    Posts: 179

    stratocaster
    Member

    Revell/AMT 50 Ford pickup has great single bar flippers,whitewalls,and an Ardun flathead.-Strat.
     
  28. Katuna
    Joined: Feb 25, 2005
    Posts: 1,822

    Katuna
    Member
    from Clovis,Ca.

    Thanks guys. Scored a 40 SD on the Gay for $12.00 delivered. I'll find something to do with the rest of it. Boy, just like the good old days. Buy a kit for the hubcaps, throw the rest away. I don't know why my wife can't understand that.
     
  29. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,550

    Anderson
    Member

    whoa! what did you just say?? no no no no no.......you NEVER throw model stuff away. if you did that, you MIGHT actually be able to find that certain part you're looking for among all the pure junk you've held onto forever :D
     
  30. Frank
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 2,325

    Frank
    Member

    Maybe some of you model guys can tell me...

    I want to try restoring some emblems on my car. They had anodized inserts and they are completely faded. Are there any translucent red or blue available in a small bottle? I've seen this sort of thing in spray cans. Candy colors might work too.
     

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