Well, here goes. Haven't submitted anything in while, I got board and through the little A p/u together today. The chopped T coupe is a resin that I'm considering channeling way down and moving the body back some.....
1Low..... Not sure if this question has ever been asked before, but what do you do with all these finished pieces? Johnny
I've got a totally unrelated question (as usual ) I hear guys wanting to redo or restore thier old resin kits, I've got a few that could use that treatment. How do you get them back apart without destroying them?
Resin is impervious to laquer thinner. Carefully remove any plastic parts by cracking the glue joints. Soak the rest in laquer thinner, and it will break up any superglue or epoxy joints enough to easily dissassemble, and you can strip the paint at the same time. Test a small area on the resin first, but I havnt come across a resin caster whos product wasnt "lacquer proof".
A.S., My experience with various attempts to re-do resin, and the success or failure of, depended on the way the stuff was built originally....Since all resin shrinks somewhat over time, clear two-part epoxy sometimes snapped apart at the joined surfaces....provided no pins were used. A heat gun's lowest setting, for only a few seconds, will help facilitate the job... Two-part putties (such as plumber's putty) would pretty much require the finest coping saw for pins or X-Acto sawblade to get through finer parts..... If you were asking about old paint removal, I've used PineSol, but prefer hot water and a firm brush, with whatever sanding was required...then a re-primer to cover whatever deep details couldn't be reached.... Hope at least some of this helps.... PS...great tips from Chad S.....Good point about removing any styrene parts...of course, no heat gun there!
Thanks for those tips guys. FWIW I have removed old paint by soaking parts in super clean for about an hour.
LOL, funny you should ask. most get parted out to build new ones!...... I really should stop that and put them on a shelve.
Someone asked about the best flathead kit in 1/25th scale a few weeks ago, and that inspired me to build up a display engine using parts from Replicas & Miniatures Co. of Maryland. This is all I have done so far. The carbs and heads are from Model Car Garage, but the rest is all RMCoM. The eddie meyer intake riser fits better when pushed fully into place. The carbs will probably be painted Alclad Chrome, or Model Masters Bronze. There is full photoetched linkage that goes on the carbs as well. Additonal parts not shown from the RMCoM line are the generator and respective pulley, starter, dip stick tube, oil pan, crank pulley, and carb scoops, belt, and Fenton headers. The heads will be detailed with R.B. Motion turned aluminum acorn nuts, spark plugs, and angled boots. The distributer/plugs will be done in detail master ignition wire. Model Car Garage makes a flathead fan kit as well.
Here are some taillight designs I was working on for adding to my small line of turned aluminum parts. It takes way too much time to make these parts, so after showing them to Norman of Replicas & Miniatures Co. of MD, it looks like hes going to be casting them for his line. The aluminum "chrome" parts will be resin and would need to be painted or sent out for chroming (the newer Alclad chrome paints often look even better than chrome vacuum plating). The black base part would get glued on and moulded into the body, and the "chrome" rings are actualy cup shaped, and fit into the black body part, and then the red lense fits into the chrome ring. The resin cast lenses will come in transparent red resin. The first "caddy" style taillight is already at norms shop for molds, and the second one with the blue dot was just finished yesterday. I am also going to make a blue dot lense for the first version as well. I still have a few more designs planned. If these make it into the RMCoM line, it should be a few months before they are available.
Very cool Chad. I need to talk to you about a set of hubcaps. Here's a couple '32's I started today. Cut the three window apart to make the 5 window work better with the RMCoM frame (thanks Chad!)...then I had to do something with the leftovers. The second will use an RMCoM sectioned grill shell, will have four strombergs, (thanks Chad!!) and Bobbleed style headers.
Oh Eric, I saw your post on HHMB on a search for headers. I can post some pics if you want of a set of headers I made a while back for my green deuce project I never finished, from solder and aluminum tubing. They wernt too hard to make, and I think you may be happier with the solder/aluminum method than a kit piece. And where did you get those hood sides with the 4 wide vents?
They are from the AMT '32 Chevy kit. They'll obviously have to be trimmed up some more, but it'll work out. The original plan was something like the So-What coupe, and while that plan has changed, the hood sides stay!
Yall amaze me. To do this with metal is one thing but to make it work and look rite in plastic is definalty a work of art. Fidgiter with all that talent on these models you need to go ahead and nock out your ride. It shows in the craftmenship of your models that you can do it.
Man, just when I think about getting back into building again, I see some of the stuff on here and it makes me want to just put everything back in the closet! That stuff is just bitchin. Does/did anyone ever make single bar flipper hubcaps? I need a pair for a taildragger I'm starting. 1/25th of course.
Yea, I think they came with the '40 Ford sedan delivery kit's. Speaking of, here's a taildragger that I started.
How you guys can make the plastic do whatever you want it to is simply amazing. The detail on that flathead is awesome! Here are some poor quality pics of a '60 I just did:
Thanks guys. Scored a 40 SD on the Gay for $12.00 delivered. I'll find something to do with the rest of it. Boy, just like the good old days. Buy a kit for the hubcaps, throw the rest away. I don't know why my wife can't understand that.
whoa! what did you just say?? no no no no no.......you NEVER throw model stuff away. if you did that, you MIGHT actually be able to find that certain part you're looking for among all the pure junk you've held onto forever
Maybe some of you model guys can tell me... I want to try restoring some emblems on my car. They had anodized inserts and they are completely faded. Are there any translucent red or blue available in a small bottle? I've seen this sort of thing in spray cans. Candy colors might work too.
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