So lately I've noticed that my old convertible has been "clunking" when putting it in gear. After looking at it I was bummed to see that the trans yoke and driveshaft are worn allowing the ujoint to move ever so slightly. Yes I realize the RIGHT WAY to repair this, however that will take some time to locate the correct parts. In the meantime I will be experimenting on some HILBILLY FIXES. I contemplated some wicking Loc***e and may still try that - would love to hear about any of your successes/failures with this type of repair. So today I grabbed a junk Drive Shaft yoke to experiment with. My goal was to try to shrink the metal. I took a torch and heated up one side across the short width of the "ring" - I didn't expect this to work as there isn't anything to resist the expanding metal. A measurement afterwards confirmed my su****ions - no change. Next I heated up only a small section red hot - I tried to only heat 1/2 way across the "ring". I did this in 3 places and alternated sides. In retrospect I should have done 4 places -but that's neither here no there as this was only an experiment...for now. After allowing it to slow cool I measured it and discovered that the bore had shrunk .002"-.003" - I was very happy to see this. I'm not yet sure how much mine is worn, but I suspect I can repeat this process as needed (alternating spots of course). So has anyone done anything similar? I wondered if mechanics back in the day might have just run a weld bead down the "strap" to do the same thing. I also wondered if machining a plug to control the shrinkage might also be a good idea. Of course if I over shrunk it I could always set it up on the mill and ream/hone back to size. Anyone who's been down this road before - I'd love to hear your thoughts!
I'm having a hard time visualizing "the ring"... can you explain it different? I been doing hillbilly repairs for a long time..It's amazing what will hold up......Not on brakes and steering of course...
By "ring" I mean the part that goes around the U-joint cap. Here's a straight on pic - the left side shows where I heated straight across for no difference. The right side shows the 3 "spots" I heated up to get the .002"-.003" shrink.
Ok, I got it, thanks....In the past I would tack weld the U joint caps to the yoke... Get out there and put some miles on it to she how long it holds up... Welding a small bead should also shrink it..
What about using some shim stock. Cut a piece of .004 one inch by two inch then lay it in the upper half of the yoke and press in the joints.
For sure.....but 1000 miles from home with no replacement part readily available you just do what you have to do...
To be fair, the OP readily admitted what the proper way to repair was. But was looking for something to get him by until a new yoke could be found. I would probably be grabbing my welder for the "temporary" tack weld. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
This has NOTHING to do with getting out of work. It has EVERYTHING to do with either working out a permanent fix OR buying time until parts can be located. These aren't parts I can go get at the local parts store or boneyard. Once upon a time mechanics actually FIXED parts - not just replaced everything in sight. I'll figure it out - Thanks for your insight.
Had an old ford p.u. with a bad u joint that I drove way too long. When I finally found my roundtewit, the joint had worn through needles, completly through the cap and most the way through the loop. Had to make an emergency trip to Va. Packed the loop with j.b. weld, pressed the cap in, making sure it was tight to the inside casting. Put the snap rings back in, bolted it in the truck. Used a heat gun to accelerate the kick. 6 hrs later I was on the road to moonshine country. Mid Mi. to Va. roundtrip in 2 days. Sold the truck 3 yrs later.
My tractor PTO shaft for my bush hog wore out like that. Like Truckedup said, I welded the cap to the yoke. Ran two more summers cutting before the gear box went out, the u joint was still hanging in there.
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