As some of you all saw my post earlier. We snagged a real solid 60 this week. It's got a 20 year old "restoration". You absolutely have to slam both doors. The doors appear to be quite aligned and the hinge pins seem tight. The lock mechanism is very clean and I through some white lithium grease in both the striker and the door. I'm beginning to think it's got the wrong door seals. Can a Ford guy tell me if these are wrong? Thanks guys.
They look correct,new aftermarket rubber is universally a little thicker,,better to be a little hard to shut instead of rattling due to being too loose. HRP
Seals look like LMC manufacture. Remove them and purchase a set of Dennis Carpenter Seals. The only ones that fit. The door will need to be adjusted to latch closed with a pressure or slam for the first few months until the seals seat.
The latch you show is not readily adjustable, if at all. The striker plate on the door frame is adjustable. If it has new seals it will take forever to fit easily, you might even gently grind some of the seal away in areas of binding, usually in the WS dog leg area. Another thing to consider,, if the windows are closed, the cab is not vented unless the fresh air vents are open to the cowl intake.
If its got the LMC seals, rip 'em out and go with DC rubber. LMC is junk as far as rubber seals is concerned.
Yep what everybody else says. Tried for days to get the doors to close easily with lmc seals, but to no avail, also could not get adhesive to stick. Tried dc seals fit better but still have to slam door. With a window cracked open a little bit, it is a little easier.
I had the same issue on my old o/t car when I replaced the door seals. They eventually kinda squished into shape and got easier to close but it did take a couple of months. sent via cl***room note. p*** it on
Well, I have the vents open. These seals are older... they have been in the truck for at least the 5 years the PO had the truck. So I would think they are as squished as they can ever be. You have to slam the door so hard... The p***enger side mirror is missing. He said the mirror fell off one day after slamming the door. The next thing is the drivers mirror has to be adjusted every time you SLAM the door. This is not right and it's killing me. Do Dan's seals glue in or stick on? I am afraid that if I adjust the striker, the doors won't close flush like they do now. Thanks guys...
what *he* said -- + you might have to tap them lightly w a hammer to loosen the grippin gasket under the striking plate [ if it has one ] I use a 3/8 drive large Phillips in my ratchet to do this [ for some leverage ]
Just restoring a 65 Econoline pickup, and same problem. Have replacement seals from 'Restoration Specialty' and they look / feel the same. Looked at 'Softseal' samples a couple of days ago, and seem like the same stuff. Must be just one supplier, slapping several names on the package. Going to try 'bulk' seals from other suppliers that offer less resistance than these ****py things. Will post results, but would be nice to hear solutions from other members. Seems this Ford weatherstripping problem is common, and I too hate pounding the hell out of the doors to get them to shut. I think it needs to be a 'hollow' weatherstrip to work. The PO installed stuff was on for about 6 years, and never improved. Now I'm struggling to get the old seals / glue off of the damned door. Any suggestions out there? Help!
remove the striker completley,then try to close the door,dont slam it but see if it glides in smoothly,if it seems to bind up,you have other issues at work here.The door wants to fit in the hole naturally,if the striker is to high or low that will cause problems too,when you remove the screws for the striker make sure the nut plate does not fall out,it may be held in with a plate,not sure as i have not worked on a truck like yours,If you have to slam the door all the time,i think you have an alignment issue.Harvey
The door hinges are to tight to the pillar you must relieve them,this is much easier said then done because you may also have to adjust fenders to the door afterwards this is common in the bodyshop and is the only way I have ever conquered this problem Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Bring hinges outward ever so slghtly and I bet it comes around... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Actually bring the door out at the hinge area , it all depends on the configuration of the hinge,pillar,..... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
the striker plates are so super sensitive on these trucks, too far one way, the door wont shut, too far the other way, it wont stay latched. don't worry about your alignment just play with the striker till you get it right
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