Swapping a T5 into my 1950 Chevy, 235 engine, S10 T5, and Nova rear axle. Anyone done it and found a junkyard driveshaft that works? I can have one made, no problem. But, if there is an easier, cheaper way, why not go that route.
Determine how long the driveshaft has to be and go to the wrecking yard. That's probably the easiest way.
I realize that. Just was hoping someone had already done that and I could cheat. Beats climbing through a bunch of mud puddles with a tape measure.
You need to hit a big-city 'yard. One with a zillion unmarked 'shafts in old trailers with no lights, holes in the deck and you have to fend off big mofo spiders and 'possums. Of course the day you go, it'll be pouring and all trailers have leaky roofs. There are some T5 conversion posts, you may try digging through those. I believe some guys have come up with suitable 'shafts, or it may pay to have one made up, you can supply one that is too long and have it sized properly. Just an option. Bob
i think mine ended up being 44 inches, but unsure. i went to salvage yard and got lucky with a 2wd s10 shaft. do not remember if it was long or short bed. i guess that where i would start. measure what you need and try s10 pickups first.
A standard cab, long bed square body S10(93-older) are the same wheelbase as a 49-54 Chevy car, so I would bet the shaft would be real close(if not dead on).
I installed an s-10 5 speed in a 54 Belair. Had a custom shaft made, utlizing the S-10 yoke. You are welcome to look at my thread and steal some ideas. Got good info from Tony, on this thread, as well. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=262468 This one has ALL the good info. Forgot I had this bookmarked. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=169265 JT
I just had to go through a big pile of drive shafts and found one that fit. It was off of a ford but couldn't tell you anymore than that.
I just had my original drive shaft altered out of my 56 Chevy Truck when I put the T5 behind my 235. It didn't cost much, just had to take some measurements. It works like a champ and I can cruise at 70 mph no problem!
From what I recall people have used 68-72 Chevelle/clones from a 4-door (different wheelbase than coupes), 55-57 Chevy, and some models of Astro Van. Obviously the later one is going to be the easier one to find. I fully expect to have to have one shortened for mine.
it is pretty cheap to get a shaft shortened and re balanced at a local shop. I needed one for an off topic lifted truck and I found one for a long bed truck for free just about 80 bucks to have it shortened balanced
I had one made, balanced, lifetime warranty in a day for $200. Beats the price of gas to find an old bent one for $75 that needs $25 in new u-joints and $50 to get shortened.
Some online 'shaft makers show you how to measure for one. Then you have to hit a boneyard that has them accessible so you don't have to step in dog **** or fight off yellow jackets to select one to modify. I had pretty good luck shortening them on my own in the past though. Your results may vary, lol. If I had to do it again, I'd take it to a shop and let them knock it out and work mint right off. Bob
greaser815 - what issues did you run into attaching your t5 to the 235? I have been leaning in this direction?
I have not done it yet. I have a nice adapter from The Hot Rod Works, looks like it will not be too hard at all. Just trying to get all my parts in a pile before I tear in.
okay you will have to let us know how that goes. good luck on the driveshaft. I hope you plan to install the ****** before trying to get a shaft.
Unless you can get a definitive answer as to what to use for a driveshaft, just forget about it for now and get the rearend and trans in it. That's the only way you're going to know what length it needs to be anyway. There are plenty of other issues you need to sort out, like the E-brake cables, rear trans mount, etc... Don't forget that the rearend isn't centered over the leaf spring bolt, so plan on drilling another hole forward of center on the axle perches. try to use axle perches that are the same width as the springs, otherwise you will need to put some shims between the spring and U-bolts. A 1957 Chevy car rearend will go right in, with just the extra hole needed in the perch. Also, the T5 usually has a snapring on the tailshaft that could potentially limit the amount of travel that the yoke can go into the trans. It is best to remove this snapring as it doesn't really do anything anyway. Give yourself a good 1" - 1 1/2" of yoke showing outside the transmission. This ***umes a normal amount of rearend travel. Add bags, or lower it alot, and that may need to change. For my '53 truck, I used a '57 car rearend and 261 with T5. I used a driveshaft from an Astro van. Stick or Auto, doesn't really matter. The difference in length is something like 1/4". Had to change the rear U-joint to work with the '57 rearend. I believe the AD trucks have the same wheelbase as the '49-54 cars?? but keep in mind that wheelbase and same engine/trans/rearend does not guaranty the same driveshaft length, as the postion of the engine within the ch***is may not be the same. Also, Chevy changed the spline count on the trans around 1964? so if you try to use a driveshaft earlier than '64, you will need to change the yoke.
For my '53 truck, I used a '57 car rearend and 261 with T5. I used a driveshaft from an Astro van. Stick or Auto, doesn't really matter. The difference in length is something like 1/4". Had to change the rear U-joint to work with the '57 rearend. Snarl, how and where do you get this done? I've matched a '55 235 up to a T5. I have the s10 driveshaft and would prefer to use it rather than the stock chevy one.
thats what a driveshaft shop does. You tell them what you are doing, and they make it happen. NAPA 348 crossover u-joint is what I used...
Not worth the h***les of finding and adapting an old shaft. Local place builds a brand new unit with all new parts, balanced and guaranteed for $189. I call them with a measurement and tell them what trans and rear end and pick it up the next morning.
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