Customs Collant Leak? Where is this coming from? Picture in Thread 1952 Buick Straight 8

Hey guys I have a 1952 Buick Super with the straight 8. It sat in a barn for over 14 years and I just got it running good. Had to install a new radiator, ignition parts and rebuild the carb. But now I am getting a coolant leak on the carburetor side of the engine right under the manifold and the coolant plugs. The leak is not coming from the plugs. I was thinking it could be the head gasket but the head does not go down this far correct?

Any ideas?

 

Looks like a cracked block to me...Probably from freezing

 

I sincerely hope I am wrong, but it sure looks like a hairline crack in the block.....

Ray

 

x3

 

Geeeeez that's what I was not hopping for guys! This engine is running amazing!

Well what are my options? Can it be welded or should I just look for a new engine?

 

If you got a good welder in the area that can weld cast iron you can get it repaired but the block will need pulled and the area cleaned. Reason to pull is the block will need to be pre heated then welded. Best bet is see if you can locate another block and rebuild using parts from both. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. As large as the crack looks I doubt you could use block seal on it.

 

Throw a can of Solder Seal Block Saver (or something like that) in the radiator and see if that takes care of it. It may get you by until you can see if it can be welded up permanantly.

 

It may be possible to weld the block without removing the engine, although removing a lot of paraphernalia to improve access would be highly desirable.

I have used some welding rods designed especially for welding cast iron, I think they are called "M-89" or similar....I welded a broken timing cover flange that was broken off in a collision. It requires the usual cleanup, vee grinding, etc. I preheated the area, not the entire block, with a torch to "kinda hot" (a judgment call) and welded short beads and peened them while cooling. Worked for me. You have little to loose under the cir***stances.

Also, that crack may be repairable by the over lapping screw plug method, but is also time consuming and will depend somewhat on casting thickness in the area of the crack. If it's thin, the screw plugs may not have enough depth to work well.

Regardless, best wishes ........

Ray

 

block sealer
eggs
wheat middlings

 

I have done the screw plug method and it works just very time consuming. After you are done and ground smooth I usually take a two part epoxy and apply to the area after warming the metal very slightly. after you apply it wait a couple minutes then use a rag and tap the epoxy to blend it in, looks like casting if you do it right. a little paint and you cant tell it was repaired. Learned that trick from a old guy I know. He says that the heated metal expands and allows the epoxy to close up any slight imperfections in the repair.

 

I think I had this for breakfast one time at a Waffle House in Kentucky.

It just kinda laid on my chest all day.

 

Try Muggyweld.com . they have a rod they say will work on engine blocks.

And remember, this is the water jacket, so should not get too hot.

Ben

 

http://www.lockns***ch.com/repair_cracked_engine_block.htm use a lock n s***ch kit

 

You might get by for while by cleaning it down to bare metal along the crack, putty it up with JB Weld, a block sealer and a NO pressure rad' cap.

 

Always had luck with KW block seal

 

If you're feeling really brave, I wonder if you might want to try using "water gl***" (sodium silicate) to seal the crack.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_silicate#Automotive_repair

Just make sure there's no coolant getting into the crankcase..

 

It looks like the freeze plug is leaking

 

I have a Straight 8 out of a 52 Super complete with a dynaflow if you need one. $500.00, pick it up in southern Ohio

 

For ****s and giggles replace the freeze plug right over the area where it's supposed to be leaking to see what happens. It really just looks like a leaking plug.

 

Straight eight Buicks are notorious for cracking in that exact area

 

Hey Ben I checked out their site. Looks like the 77 electrode is what I would need. I'm going to call them up and see what size they would recommend. Pretty cool company never knew that they offered that kind of stuff.

 

I don't think it is coming from the plug but I'm going to clean everything up with a wire wheel and see if I can see a crank. Will start it up to see what happens.

After looking at the s***ch kit I think I feel better trying welding it first. If that does not work I can grind it down and try the s***ch.

 

Should a 200 amp ARC welder be fine for this job? Or should I get a 225 amp?

 

A 200 amp unit should be more than adequate. You probably won't need more than 90 to 120 amp range to get the correct penetration. That is somewhat dependent on rod size (3/32", 1/8", 3/16"...etc.) and whether or not you preheat the area to be welded. I would think 1/8" would be suitable for this job.

Ray

 

Ok awesome. They offer sizes 5/32", 3/32", 1/8". Should I just go with the biggest rod? Have to buy them in packs. Going to order a set on Monday. Figured I might as well do it myself as I don't trust many shops around here and it's something new I get to learn.

 

Since they have 3/32", I would consider that over the 1/8". If you can buy rods in any quan***y, maybe a few of both would be worth considering. Also, if I were doing this, I would use some pre-heat. A propane torch would probably be sufficient for that purpose. When welding cast iron, slow cooling is best. It isn't as easy to control with the engine block's size and location, but avoid direct blasts of air or other coolant mediums. Also, light peening of a weld can relieve stress in the part.

Ray

 

If you're a novice welder, cast iron is a poor choice for getting your feet wet. Although everyone has their own, and usually highly anecdotal, horror story about it's use, I would try a sealer first. I had a leak that I fixed with Alumiseal about 5 years ago. Still hasn't leaked a drop and it didn't plug up my radiator, destroy my water pump, give me acne or any of the other certain catastrophes that the internet experts warn of. It's only a few bucks and it won't hurt to try. You can still weld it or s***ch it if it doesn't work

 

Definately concure with the two previous posts.

 

If you are going to weld it with no leaks you better be good. Even a pro. would not try it in the car. I'd try the water gl*** If you pull it and lay it flat My recommendation would be br*** it's easyer to do.

 

I've had success with either Zecol Mend***e or KW Block Sealer. I'd try them before welding if it runs well and there are no pieces coming out. Welding cast iron can be tricky and can always be done if the sealers don't work.