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Customs Collant Leak? Where is this coming from? Picture in Thread 1952 Buick Straight 8

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jmillsUT28, Sep 19, 2014.

  1. jmillsUT28
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 101

    jmillsUT28
    Member
    from TN

    Hey guys I have a 1952 Buick Super with the straight 8. It sat in a barn for over 14 years and I just got it running good. Had to install a new radiator, ignition parts and rebuild the carb. But now I am getting a coolant leak on the carburetor side of the engine right under the manifold and the coolant plugs. The leak is not coming from the plugs. I was thinking it could be the head gasket but the head does not go down this far correct?

    Any ideas?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. wbrw32
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 7,314

    wbrw32
    Member

    Looks like a cracked block to me...Probably from freezing
     
  3. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,357

    Hnstray
    Member
    from Quincy, IL

    I sincerely hope I am wrong, but it sure looks like a hairline crack in the block.....

    Ray
     
  4. x3
     
  5. jmillsUT28
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 101

    jmillsUT28
    Member
    from TN

    Geeeeez that's what I was not hopping for guys! This engine is running amazing!

    Well what are my options? Can it be welded or should I just look for a new engine?
     
  6. CGkidd
    Joined: Mar 2, 2002
    Posts: 2,923

    CGkidd
    Member

    If you got a good welder in the area that can weld cast iron you can get it repaired but the block will need pulled and the area cleaned. Reason to pull is the block will need to be pre heated then welded. Best bet is see if you can locate another block and rebuild using parts from both. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. As large as the crack looks I doubt you could use block seal on it.
     
  7. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,736

    bobss396
    Member

    Throw a can of Solder Seal Block Saver (or something like that) in the radiator and see if that takes care of it. It may get you by until you can see if it can be welded up permanantly.
     
  8. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,357

    Hnstray
    Member
    from Quincy, IL

    It may be possible to weld the block without removing the engine, although removing a lot of paraphernalia to improve access would be highly desirable.

    I have used some welding rods designed especially for welding cast iron, I think they are called "M-89" or similar....I welded a broken timing cover flange that was broken off in a collision. It requires the usual cleanup, vee grinding, etc. I preheated the area, not the entire block, with a torch to "kinda hot" (a judgment call) and welded short beads and peened them while cooling. Worked for me. You have little to loose under the cir***stances.

    Also, that crack may be repairable by the over lapping screw plug method, but is also time consuming and will depend somewhat on casting thickness in the area of the crack. If it's thin, the screw plugs may not have enough depth to work well.

    Regardless, best wishes ........

    Ray
     
  9. bobwop
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 6,135

    bobwop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Arley, AL

    block sealer
    eggs
    wheat middlings
     
  10. CGkidd
    Joined: Mar 2, 2002
    Posts: 2,923

    CGkidd
    Member

    I have done the screw plug method and it works just very time consuming. After you are done and ground smooth I usually take a two part epoxy and apply to the area after warming the metal very slightly. after you apply it wait a couple minutes then use a rag and tap the epoxy to blend it in, looks like casting if you do it right. a little paint and you cant tell it was repaired. Learned that trick from a old guy I know. He says that the heated metal expands and allows the epoxy to close up any slight imperfections in the repair.
     
  11. ClayMart
    Joined: Oct 26, 2007
    Posts: 7,793

    ClayMart
    Member

    I think I had this for breakfast one time at a Waffle House in Kentucky. :eek:

    It just kinda laid on my chest all day. o_O
     
    tommyd, tb33anda3rd and bobwop like this.
  12. Try Muggyweld.com . they have a rod they say will work on engine blocks.

    And remember, this is the water jacket, so should not get too hot.

    Ben
     
  13. captainjunk#2
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,420

    captainjunk#2
    Member

  14. You might get by for while by cleaning it down to bare metal along the crack, putty it up with JB Weld, a block sealer and a NO pressure rad' cap.
     
  15. pastlane
    Joined: Oct 4, 2007
    Posts: 1,063

    pastlane
    Member

    Always had luck with KW block seal
     
  16. ClayMart
    Joined: Oct 26, 2007
    Posts: 7,793

    ClayMart
    Member

  17. DFH-GMC
    Joined: Dec 24, 2011
    Posts: 130

    DFH-GMC
    Member
    from Texas

    It looks like the freeze plug is leaking Coolant Leak.JPG
     
  18. BuckeyeBuicks
    Joined: Jan 4, 2010
    Posts: 2,769

    BuckeyeBuicks
    Member
    from ohio

    I have a Straight 8 out of a 52 Super complete with a dynaflow if you need one. $500.00, pick it up in southern Ohio
     
  19. old1946truck
    Joined: Apr 9, 2008
    Posts: 685

    old1946truck
    Member

    For ****s and giggles replace the freeze plug right over the area where it's supposed to be leaking to see what happens. It really just looks like a leaking plug.
     
  20. Straight eight Buicks are notorious for cracking in that exact area
     
  21. jmillsUT28
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 101

    jmillsUT28
    Member
    from TN

    Hey Ben I checked out their site. Looks like the 77 electrode is what I would need. I'm going to call them up and see what size they would recommend. Pretty cool company never knew that they offered that kind of stuff.
     
  22. jmillsUT28
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 101

    jmillsUT28
    Member
    from TN

    I don't think it is coming from the plug but I'm going to clean everything up with a wire wheel and see if I can see a crank. Will start it up to see what happens.

    After looking at the s***ch kit I think I feel better trying welding it first. If that does not work I can grind it down and try the s***ch.
     
  23. jmillsUT28
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 101

    jmillsUT28
    Member
    from TN

    Should a 200 amp ARC welder be fine for this job? Or should I get a 225 amp?
     
  24. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,357

    Hnstray
    Member
    from Quincy, IL

    A 200 amp unit should be more than adequate. You probably won't need more than 90 to 120 amp range to get the correct penetration. That is somewhat dependent on rod size (3/32", 1/8", 3/16"...etc.) and whether or not you preheat the area to be welded. I would think 1/8" would be suitable for this job.

    Ray
     
  25. jmillsUT28
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 101

    jmillsUT28
    Member
    from TN

    Ok awesome. They offer sizes 5/32", 3/32", 1/8". Should I just go with the biggest rod? Have to buy them in packs. Going to order a set on Monday. Figured I might as well do it myself as I don't trust many shops around here and it's something new I get to learn.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2014
  26. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,357

    Hnstray
    Member
    from Quincy, IL

    Since they have 3/32", I would consider that over the 1/8". If you can buy rods in any quan***y, maybe a few of both would be worth considering. Also, if I were doing this, I would use some pre-heat. A propane torch would probably be sufficient for that purpose. When welding cast iron, slow cooling is best. It isn't as easy to control with the engine block's size and location, but avoid direct blasts of air or other coolant mediums. Also, light peening of a weld can relieve stress in the part.

    Ray
     
  27. If you're a novice welder, cast iron is a poor choice for getting your feet wet. Although everyone has their own, and usually highly anecdotal, horror story about it's use, I would try a sealer first. I had a leak that I fixed with Alumiseal about 5 years ago. Still hasn't leaked a drop and it didn't plug up my radiator, destroy my water pump, give me acne or any of the other certain catastrophes that the internet experts warn of. It's only a few bucks and it won't hurt to try. You can still weld it or s***ch it if it doesn't work
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2014
  28. CGkidd
    Joined: Mar 2, 2002
    Posts: 2,923

    CGkidd
    Member

    Definately concure with the two previous posts.
     
  29. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,393

    sunbeam
    Member

    If you are going to weld it with no leaks you better be good. Even a pro. would not try it in the car. I'd try the water gl*** If you pull it and lay it flat My recommendation would be br*** it's easyer to do.
     
  30. Engine man
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,480

    Engine man
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    I've had success with either Zecol Mend***e or KW Block Sealer. I'd try them before welding if it runs well and there are no pieces coming out. Welding cast iron can be tricky and can always be done if the sealers don't work.
     

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