1952-59 Ford Aerostar Springs and...

I put the Areostar springs on my 53 three or four years ago and have had no problems! It steers and rides so much better. I had cut coils on it before. after changing the springs I didn't even have to have the frontend realigned.

 

Carnut341, the back of your car looks looow, what did you do to that? I was thinking aerostars and 2" blocks to get the car (hopefully) level.
Where were your rear fender skirts from?
Ian

 

Anyone have before and after pics of a 53 club coupe?
Ian

 

put the aerostar springs in my 53 ford. didnt need a spring compressor to take them out and the new springs were 2 inch shorter went in easy without one.

 

And how far did it drop?

 

At first the drop will be 2 1/2" to 3" this will depend on what you have under the hood as a 302 weighs almost 100 pounds less than a flathead,after several months of driving the springs will settle an additional 1/2".

 

I wonder whether 3-3.5" is further than I want to go
Ian

 

That is about perfect, usually where guys have issues is going past that because then you usually will have bottoming out on the bump stops.You should follow the springs up with the KYB shocks to complete the package. Part# KG4503

 

I think the car has had shocks in fairly recent history but not sure which ones, are those kyb,s shorter or stock length?
Ian

 

I'm sitting in front of the car now scratching my head as to how I get the spring out, could someone have another go at explaining the procedure
Thanks a lot
Ian

 

Slightly shorter than OEM,a lot of guys used them with the Aerostar springs and loved them.

 

I have had the aerostars in front and 3 1/2" blocks in back since 2009 and put around 1500 to 2000 miles a year on my town sedan with no problems with steering or ride, I did put air shocks on the rear for those trips with p***engers and luggage.

 

I got the Monroe 5821 (from Amazon...) for my '59, supposed to go good with the springs. Stock ones may work, you'd find out soon enough on the 1st ride.

 

Taking out the spring... fairly easy. I would not attempt it without a good floor jack. jackstands and for someone new to the process, possibly a 4-jaw spring compressor. I bought mine in 1986 and it still works great. I don't use it unless there is no drivetrain in the car.

Loosen both wheels with the car on the ground. Block the rear tires, apply the-ebrake. Drop out both shocks, remove the sway bar links. Jack up one side at a time under the lower a-arm. Place a jack stand under the frame rail just behind the front frame kick. Lower the car so it contacts the stand. You may want to place the floor jack so you have access to the shock hole in the lower arm. The spring compressor doesn't go in that straight if there is no upward tension on the spring.

Remove the tire and drum as 1 piece. Place your compressor through the lower shock hole, grab a upper coil so both hooks are in place, do the same at the bottom. Put enough tension on it so it doesn't fall out.

Loosen the upper ball joint nut, leave it on a few threads. You may want to un-do the outer tierod to give yourself a little more room. Take a big hammer, hit the upper knuckle of the spindle hard and the ball joint taper should break free. It may take 2-3 shots. Remove the nut, swing the upper a-arm up out of the way. I block them sometimes with a piece of 2x4.

Crank up on the spring compressor until the spring is loose, I'd say shorten it up by around 2". Slowly lower the floor jack and let the spring and compressor drop out while standing behind the jack. It may roll once it hits the ground. Or sometimes it stays with the lower arm and you can grab it when it's loose.

Remove the compressor, helps to have an impact gun set up, makes it a lot faster. With the shorter new springs, take a test-fit up into the frame pocket, you may get away without compressing it. If not, use the compressor and compress the spring so it goes up without a fight. If you have new insulators, tape one to the top of each spring.

Having a helper is good at this point. Place the spring up into the frame pocket, make sure the ring in the pocket fits into the ID of the new spring. Take a look at it with a flashlight before you start so you understand the geometry. Hold the spring while someone jacks up the lower arm. Line up the tang with the notch on the arm. At this point you can block the shock hole with the jack.

Run the jack up until you can attach the upper a-arm. Take a final look to make sure the spring is in place at the top and bottom. Attach the upper ball joint nut, use a new cotter pin. Attach the sway bar link and tierod end if it was off. Loosen the compressor and remove it. You can move the jack and get the shock in, or wait until the end and do them both at the same time.

Slap the wheel and drum back on and that side is done. Hope this helps, I haven't done one in a few years and used to do these for a living, the emphasis was get 'em in and out in the least possible time.

 

I managed to get them out fairly easy, removed the sway bar and shock then very carefully and slowly lowered the bottom arm down on a trolley jack and the spring comes out. New spring goes in easy because it's much shorter
Thanks
Ian

 

They're not that bad once you've done a few. I did them on everything, struts, the spring above the upper arm, etc. Pretty easy to get hurt if you do something procedurally wrong.

I worked in one shop, 2 ***hats were trying to wrestle an un-compressed spring up into place... I offered my help, got cursed out and I walked away. A few minutes later an ambulance was out front, 1 guy out cold with a bleeding head wound and concussion, the other with both bones in his forearm broken.

 

Finally put 2"lowering blocks in the rear, made them myself in the end.
Sits just about level with the ground now. Axle now hits the exhaust on the drivers side which is frustrating as I had the system off last week to fit new smithys mufflers! Oh well that's hotrodding!
Was thinking of fitting some fender skirts but not sure now?
Ian

 

Ian Hall. I'm sorry to take so long in answering your question. But. it's been so long since I put the lowering blocks on my car I can't really remember what size they are, but I'll check them in the morning . The fenderskirts are 53s that mount outside the fender opening.

 

Looks great! I like it without skirts personally.