Pic Request - 32 Floor?? What did they look like stock?

Has anyone got a picture of what a floor loked like in a 32 5 window? Just curious what all is missing. I have no cross members or anything. I would like to simulate something stock. I think I am going to need a cross member at the front and rear of the door frame, then one over the rear axle.

 

**** Spadaro.......sells a very good 32 5W floor for around $250 ..I believe...I know he sells them....and I know he has a web site...with it on it....

Randy

 

ah!!! I will check him out. Thanks DR. Maybe modified driver can get me a discount on a catalog

 

There are several sections to the floor--most of this stuff is closely related to roadster--cabriolet--sport coupe, but not 3w. The section above noted is most of it, then there's a separate pan under the seat. All ends against a crossmember where the removable wood starts up front. Everything is available to whatever level you can afford...

 

if you get a catalog from brookville roadster it has all the pans and subrails you need for the floor.they are dead on for a 5 window,even though they are for a roadster.

www.brookville-roadster.com

-danny

 

Here's the floor.....Price listed was 200 and change for the front....and 40 for the rear....well worth it IMHO to get the beads that are rolled in it....a flat floor " oil cans " ......( pops and flexes ) and the rolled beads stop that....

Yes, **** and Frank go way back......and have a long and sorrid past.. in the NE

 

Back in the early 90's, I built about a dozen 32 floors for 5 window and roadster. I gave up cause they were too time consuming and other problems--long story. I have extra parts /pieces left over . PM me and let me know what you need.

danzee

 

Oh, yeah, I forgot: Only deuce 5 windows sold on the west coast had floors--all eastern and midwestern ones came channeled 11" with a sheet of plywood sitting on the rails for a floor. I know. I've seen all of them.

 

Thanks for the help - it looks like the subrails are the pricey ticket. I wish I could see a floor ***embly or how the floor is supposed to sit on the subrails and how they attach to the body.

Thanks Danzee, I'll send PM

 

Tudor, look around for a streetrod shop in you area--your best bet for a good look at how it goes is to find a new Brookville body and crawl around a bit.
They have a pretty good replica of original floorage, except most will have a flat pan under the seat without the tray for sidecurtains and lost dimes.

 

I thought I was the lead engineer on the floor. This tears me up inside. What next no santa?

In all seriousness that floor for 240 with the beads look like a good deal. I would just make sure you get one WITHOUT a perimeter of angle or bar stock, since we will nedd to re contour the edges since yours is channeled. and the contours may be different.

 

Dave - Just trying to do some research so I can support ya while you work your magic. I don't want to be a complete side kick idiot - I know you already got all this in your head.

Did you check out the bad pictures I took last night? I jack the back end up so it is on top of the frame rails. I am going to try my best to unchannel that ****er. Then I figured I would end up putting patch panels all on the bottom of the body. It looks so much better sitting up to me. Plus you ain't gonna fit if I leave it channeled.

Ha Bruce!!!! I'll see if I can find one. Probably just end up supporting a pan with plywood.

 

If your gonna unchannel it we should be just dandy then. Even I Think you should build this puppy with period parts. I'm very stoked about this. This is gonna rule.

 

Subrails are the big ticket items. There is a place in Kansas that was selling a set of subrails for something like $950. The website is: http://www.mcphersonauto.com/32subrails.html
I just recently bought some rockers and patch panels from Spadaro and the price was resonable, quailty was good.

 

thanks - so those weld to the inside of the body and then the cross rail lay or attach to them. That is what would shape the bottom of the body right???

 

those sub rails will have to be simulated for sure-

 

One useful thing to know about unchanneling a '32: Firewall and rear fenders bolt to both frame and body, giving you a ready made jig location at each end. Try to beg/borrow/steal this stuff at the beginning of the project, as it will give you firm locations and hence answer a lot of difficult questions. The crossmember at front of seat should likely be the first crosspiece in, and that will solidify and locate the middle.

 

Let me know if this helps,

I can take some better close up pictures if you want...

This floor is riveted in...

 

here are the others I took, just had to figure out this damned digital camera....

 

very nice work and helpfull pictures. Would it be possible to get a shot with the wood removed where it is at an angle meeting the firewall - It would be helfull to see the firewall connection to the subrail and frame. thanks a million.

also thanks Bruce - I will try and start with a firewall for sure.

 

Is the cowl welded right to the front subrail?

Also - is the rocker and subrail the same piece under the door?- or is that made up of two pieces?

 

The firewall bolts to the frame and does not "connect" wto the floor or body framing.

Also, the wood may not be exactly stock, so take that as it is...

 

The firewall bolts to body in only a very minor way--two little machine screws at top where hinge retainer goes--but it fills and supports the cowl and locates it at correct height. Body cowl rim near lower edge has brackets for two long bolts that go into frame as adjustment bolts to tilt cowl for door alignment. You'll also need the rubber gasket between cowl and firewall to get everything located.
Fenders are $$, but try to borrow some as alignment devices until you have something in place out back.

 

here are some shots that may help....

to recreate the stock asembly process on a channeled car will take a ton of patience if nothing else...

 

AHHHHH - thanks that really helps to see it. I think there is even part of that bolt conection left on the inside of one of my cowls. Wanna trade? please?

 

A cheap way out (now that you have an idea of how they look..and cost!!) buy some kinda heavy gauge angle and use your frame as a guide. Yes this will take time ,cutting and welding but as long as you follow the frame rails bolting it dow to the stock holes it will work.

 

You can see here how a firewall will stand alone......on the ch***is......



Here is the stock type original pan that goes under the seat ( these are reproduced also )



My 3W now has a metal front floor.....and the toe boards are off the firewall, same angle as Henry made them......



All tied in.....and bolted at the firewall to the frount floor. When you unbolt the firewall.....the rest of the floor will stay in the 3W. Notice the master cylinder access plate.....

.

 

Wow - Great pictures! Thanks D.R. and everybody.

Yeah I was thinking the angle welded to the inside of the body - with cross pieces bolted tothe frame. Build a grid out of 1" square tube and put some floor panels on it. I am not building a show car - but I'd like it to look slick.

I've got some folks sending me some PMs about some parts.

i appreciate all the pictures - very helpfull to get the mind sparking - just wish mine looked like those!!! nice

 

Holy ****! This is what I've been looking for. (No really , I was gonna ask for pix of roadster A pillar pix recently)These pix are for the Roadster floor. The A pillar brackets for 5 window are different. Same goes for the rocker area. They aren't identical. You can put a roadster floor in a 5 window , but can't put a 5 window floor in a roadster because of the different thicknesses of the door bottoms . Sub-rails are totally different. Bad timing, gotta go . I've studied these things for years. danzee

 

I have installed the floor from **** Spadaro's before.....nice piece.....