Any one interested in a GIBB'S test

I have a really rusty car I'm working on. I figured this would be the ultimate test for GIBB'S. This prolly much worse than what they say they will cut through, but I figured I'd give it a try. Here are the before pics.
I sprayed some raw, and sanded a bit then sprayed last night. I gonna see how well it sands friday night. and let some set for a few more days. Like I said before this is not meant to be a negative deal. I realize before hand that this is ton of rust. I have heard nothing but good things about the stuff, and believe all of it. I am sure on a normal car it will give the expected results. I just want to give it the ultimate test. In reality I hopin' this stuff saves me a ton of sanding.

 

I'd like to see this test but, why would you try to sand something that covered in rust in the first place that looks like sandblast material all the way. P.S. where did you get the gibbs from. Thanks pat.

 

What is GIBB'S and what is it supposed to do? Haven't heard of it before. Looks like sandblasting work to me too, but then again I'm not familiar with the product you're using. What kind of car is this?

 

I don't want to blow through things, or warp anything.

 

Supposed to be like a super WD40 rust penetrant/remover/inhibitor. Roadsters.com swears by the stuff, has a pretty impressive before-after shot of a coupe body. It's also supposed to work like a charm on firearms. You're supposed to let it penetrate for a long time, then sand.

Based on the recommendation I picked up a few cans for a project. Turns out the guy who is the national distributor, Billy Grubbs, lives a few miles away from me in Lake Bluff IL. I will report results as well.

 

Cant hardly beat gibbs but kano kroil does wonders as a penetrating oil also.

 

Kano kroil or Silikroil is bad ass as a penetrant, remover...
I'd normally hit it with some Ospho first, then a light sand blast or soft wire wheel. Got the same crap on my '51 Poncho...
JB

 

I am definately intrested in your post! Keep us updated!

 

With a name like yours, I bet you are.

 

yeah i'd like to see how it comes out...
Pic of my little test. It is some good stuff.
And it don't mess up paint jobs, if a little blows around in the shop.
Jdee

 

Big Dave, I'd like to know where you got it too. I rambled around on the web looking for some a couple of years ago but never got any response to my emails. How much was it?

 

As mentioned above

http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/

I didn't find it to be that great a penetrant on rusty bolts, but man does it do wonder as a lubricant when drilling holes!

 

That's weird. There are thousands of us who have found Gibbs Brand to be a superb penetrant.

Remember to follow the "How to use..." instructions I wrote on http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/

By the way, in the text beside the pictures of my coupe body shown on that page, I make it clear that I sanded it down after treating it with Gibbs Brand.

Dave
http://www.roadsters.com/

 

I would use a mild phosforic acid solution on that first....I have bought Gibbs Brand from Dave at roadsters.com...I love this stuff. Since I live at the ocean now, I use it on my hammers and dollies, bare sheet metal etc....anything that rust wants to form on..more as a preventative measure, but it seems to be good on light rust as well. I like it so much I bought a case.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

 

Sorry for the delay. I did get sanding on it 2 days after application. However I'm just getting to posting pics. It did seam to soften up the paint, however it alsi gummed up the 80 grit quicker. My opinion is it's still only as good as your tools, by that I mean it didn't perfomr any magic. It did keep any new rust from forming. So it does rock in that respect. I do believe it would be great for stuck bolts, etc where it has something to creep into and seperate. Enough said here are the pics.

 

I've used Gibbs, Kroil, and P.B. Blaster, and Kroil is a far better product.

There hasen't ever been something that I couldn't get apart with Kroil, heat, time and some leverage. Best one was getting some sidecar bolts undone that had sat outside for 60+ years.

But, as far as my experiance goes, their spray cans suck. I buy it by the gallon, and fill my wd40 squirt bottle with it.

 

I just ordered a can to test. If it works as good as the testimonials it will be worth the $20/can.
I have had very good luck with Kroil and I know it is an excellent penetrating oil.

dave

 

You sanded it too soon. When you spray oil all over something and then sand it down two days later, it seems reasonable to expect the oil to clog up your abrasives. Next time, try to wait a couple of weeks.

My opinion is that you didn't wait long enough to let it work its magic, reversing the effects of the oxidization process, as I have experienced (on a 454 block and my Deuce coupe body) and then described on the page that I wrote about it. Next time, try to wait a couple of weeks.

Agreed.

Dave Mann
Phoenix, Arizona
(602) 233-8400
http://www.roadsters.com/

 

Not to change the subject but i have found Military gun oil to be the best "rust product" on the market.
Shit I can't remember the name of the stuff But I will when my brain gets into full swing Later.

Break-Free
The Marine corps uses it almost exclusivly on everything.
It comes in a non aresol spray bottle and you have to shake it before every use. But it will loosen up almost anything( Everything I have put it on)

I buy it by the gallon.and put it in my own small bottle.

 

Gibbs Brand does everything that Kroil does, just as well, and it also does a lot more things that Kroil doesn't. If you disagree with that, let's see the result of your treating a nice bare-metal car body and some cherry vintage Halibrand magnesium wheels with Kroil. Show us.

Dave Mann
Phoenix, Arizona
(602) 233-8400
http://www.roadsters.com/

 

Like I said in the begining this is not meant to be a negative deal to attack GIBB'S. Just a guy doing a test in the garage. Let's not make this a drama post, or an advertisement.

 

Are you a spokesman for Gibbs or something? I'm just stating my opinion... and I've never used kroil for treating bare metal, just as a penetrating oil. Thats all I ever used Gibbs for, and it seemed like kroil worked better, in my humble opinion.

Whats with posting shit from my profile? It's meant to be funny holmes... and I should correct that, I'm in college now.

It just seemed like we were having open discussion here... Sorry.

 

He's a vendor. That is fucked posting personal shit. I knew this shit would happen. no one especially you has trashed his product, Yet he's gota get all defensive.

Roadster.com: No is trashing your product RELAX and don't be so fuckin defensive. If anything in this post will effect your future sales it will be your fuckin attitude!!!!!

 

It's my understanding that you can paint over gibbs so that in it self makes it alot more user friendly in a paint environment. I would rather use something on bodypanels that I dont have to worry about a reaction....aka..fisheyes..Pat

 

WHAT THE FUCK....
sit down, have a beer, and shut the fuck up! He was not trashing your product, only testing and posting results!

or......better yet, enjoy a sock!

 

i like it,but i wouldn't paint over it.

george

 

I'm with the naval jelly lionheart posted.
It's really jellied Lye and has a very high Ph.
To make soap you combine Fat {oil} and lye to make soap....naval jelly is like super soap with no oil.
Oil causes "fish eyes", which is what lye is mixed with to make soap....and any penetrating oil is oil and will lead to fish eyes. The high Ph of the lye will increase surface tension {like soap in water, it makes bubbles, or "water wetter" to cool your car, it works b/c of surface tension}.
The higher surface tension helps paint adhere...and results in a better, smoother job.
I'm not a painter, but I know a little chemistry.

 

I told you guys - grinder with wire cup brush - polish to a shine - no waiting for a month to have it soak in. Then put on yer gibbs to preserve the finish you've obtained. Spraying crap on rust = rusty crap which is what your going to have.

Yes wet rusty crap will clog sand paper - but not a wire cup brush.

Might as well piss on it and wait 3 weeks then ruin your sand paper.

 

now that is something i never thought of......might have to give it a try!

 

Damn it so is Rodney! I found this in my grandma's basement when she moved out: