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Technical 56 Pontiac Chieftain Hanging Brake Pedal & Booster

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Clint Lovell, Oct 2, 2014.

  1. Clint Lovell
    Joined: Sep 11, 2014
    Posts: 17

    Clint Lovell
    Member

    Okay. I've gotten Scarebird's Front Disc Brake kit and all the pieces to change to front disc brakes now. I also went ahead and bought his bracket to mount the Wilwood 260-7563 dual reservoir master cylinder in the stock location on the frame. I am now at a juncture on this project where I must make a decision about going with the Wilwood MC and staying with manual brakes, or loose the defroster and heater (going to a Vintage Air or Old Air Products ac/heat/defrost system or hangdown unit depending on my choice with the brakes) and put in a hanging pedal, booster and master cylinder for power brakes. What I'd like to know is , should I first try the manual front disc/rear drums with the stock brake pedal arrangement, or just bite the bullet and go power with booster from the start. I do not have power steering, so the hydroboost idea is a no-go. For those of you who have done the hanging pedal conversion, what did you use and how did you reinforce the firewall to prevent flexing and fatigue cracking? Pictures would be greatly appreciated.

    I should mention that I know there are many purists who will say to stay stock and drive with the single reservoir drums. That is fine and you are welcome to your preferences. I, on the other hand view this as a safety issue, like seatbelts. I prefer the piece of mind in knowing that I can stop quickly if the need arises and have redundancy in the brake system. That said, what recommendations can you offer in light of the certainty of my conversion to front disc brakes and dual reservoir master cylinder? Thanks!
     
  2. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,036

    belair
    Member

    I have manual front disc brakes on my 48 Fleetline and my 55 Chevy 2 door. Never saw the need for the power brakes. I run a dual reservoir master cylinder on both.
     
  3. My 57 Safari(that was built in the 1960's as a race car)had the defroster unit removed and the builder used a set of pedals from a 55-57 Chevy(converting from A/T to standard shift)and a single circuit master cylinder with manual brakes.I've only driven it a couple times(it is apart now)and the brakes seemed adequate.Not sure if he reinforced the firewall or not.
    As for the P/S issue;I don't have it on my 55 Safari and I have no trouble driving it.The steering wheel is stock diameter and the trick to maneuvering a car with no P/S is to be moving slightly forward or back and the steering effort is greatly reduced.
     
  4. Clint Lovell
    Joined: Sep 11, 2014
    Posts: 17

    Clint Lovell
    Member

    Appreciate the comments. Others welcome. Thanks.
     
  5. 55 dude
    Joined: Jun 19, 2006
    Posts: 9,357

    55 dude
    Member

    go with stock pedals and whatever booster you use check bracket on occasion for cracking!
     
  6. bryan6902
    Joined: May 5, 2008
    Posts: 1,137

    bryan6902
    Member

    I rarely post here any more but you can look through my build and album pics. I deep-sized the factory master and booster on my '57 and bought a universal swing pedal ***embly with a master and booster. This also requires trashing the factory heater set-up. I re-enforced the firewall with extra 20 gauge on either side where it mounts and the bracket uses 1/4 inch steel. Plenty strong, no flex, brakes work great.
     

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