Technical Replace or POR15 it?

Haha. Well I mean, what IS wrong with it? Some of the fuel line routing under the hood is that same stuff, and thats subjected to all the engine heat

 

Steel is a lot less risky under the car where road trash, rocks thrown by tires etc. end up. If you don't
want to go thru pulling the tank twice do you want to go thru building the vehicle twice cause the first
one burned down on the side of the road? I do not think any state would accept a rubber line going
the entire route in an inspection, and I know I would never want it on the road with me. However if
you agree to take my ex-wife with you.......

 

All rubber hose should be replaced with the new ethanol resistant material. I don't have a piece in front of me but I think the required code printed on it may read SAE R30J or something like that. A quick search on the internet will give the straight dope. If you don't do this the inside of your rubber lines will turn to mush, the same for your diaphragm in your carb or fuel pump, manual or electric.

 

Im pretty sure the industry is hip to being ethanol compatible now, the carb and fuel pump rebuild kits I got as I recall said they were ethanol safe. Its been in our fuel source long enough now

 

So Im replacing the fuel filters today.
Look how bad the old one got! I barely drove the thing a handful of times around the block. What bothers me is the next filter I had, after the fuel pump, (non see through) turned up dirty as well. That means this **** got into my rebuilt fuel pump too. Hopefully hasnt messed it up. Any suggestions on cleaning it? I dont want to damage the membrane with a carb cleaner or something. I think ultimately the tank has to be dropped and cleaned and fresh gas run through. The filter didnt look that bad until I moved it around, all the sediment was on the bottom.

 

There are posts out there, regarding the replacement of tanks, fuel pumps, carb overhauls AFTER treating the inside of a fuel tank with "whatever product". The "whatever product" gets into the fuel system, rather than staying inside the tank, where it was supposed to stay.
I like to do jobs one time ONLY and not have my job bite me in the azz because I took a shortcut that was labeled "disaster".
I will never submit to treating or painting a used, 60 plus year old tank.. Just my way, my opinion.
I will not be stranded on the side of the road (hopefully) because of a poor decision that I made.
I WILL use a new tank only. Less expensive in the long run.
Click below for more pros and cons.
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/194212/

 

Yeah, ultimately a new tank would be best. Only reason Im considering the sealer is 40 bucks vs 400 bucks and theres plenty of guys who have had no problems for years and years. The tank actually was pretty clean looking when i hosed it out. That filter was plugged up with sediment and crud. I think the tank is salvageable without needing a repair of any rust holes.

 

Anybody try this stuff from kanter?
http://www.kanter.com///productdeta...Itm=20000A&MDv=1&MDpt=0&MSb=0&Cat=44&Prc=186#

 

Gas Tank Renu. I've used it maybe a dozen times. Never a problem, and they fix most any issue on a tank. Impervious to all but nitro, and not many on the street running nitro.

I tried to clean them myself. Problem is, all tanks are coated from the off, and any cleaning takes off the coating. Gas contains water, its just part and parcel of the beast. Said water WILL re-rust a tank that is just cleaned, esp. if cleaned with muriatic acid. I am NOT talking about theory, I'm talking personal experience with more than one tank.

Should be available from most radiator shops, it's where I always went. About $225, though that was a few years back.

Cosmo

 

This is what I use on my customers motorcycle gas tanks. When I'm done using it I use an automotive paint filter and put it back in it's container. It works great and it's completely safe for you and the environment.

 

Yes, there is a BIG difference between $40 and $400.
Talking to folks, over time, leads me to believe the stuff put into the tank will come back out of the tank, down the road, through the fuel line.
Now, with my track record of luck, I would coat the tank, then end up on the side of the road, facing new fuel lines, fuel pump and a carb rebuild PLUS a new tank.
I'm not enough of a gambler to go that route.