Hey everyone, seems I've run into another problem.... So did a 12 v conversion this weekend and all went well till I turn the ignition over. I installed a petronix ignition coil and ignitor that was recommended for my car in a 12v version. From the instructions I found online it told me to swap the wires on the old coil because it would now be a 12v negative ground system. Turned the key and **** went the factory smoke I side the ignitor module. After metering one of the wires I swapped I was getting a constant 12v which was landed on the negative side of coil. Any idea what my next step would be at this point. I'm lost.
I did install a gm one wire alternator which was ran straight to the postive terminal of my battery. All wires from regulator were discarded. Had two wires that went to the old coil from inside the car landed back at new coil which I swapped.
I did not have a ballast resistor installed because I did not have one on old setup. I thought that that this coil did not require one.
change ***le of thread to grab attention of people with experience in what you are doing - problems. I think that hotroddon is a rep f0r Pertronix
Hi, just tried changing the ***le but didn't look like it worked. I'm also using the mobile app. Thanks
You might want to join here and ask too: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/social-forums/1952-59-ford-social-group.282/
I'm not a fan of 1 wire alternators because I frankly don't think they do their job very well. A 10SI is very simple to wire. That being said... Your BAT terminal should go to the hot side of your solenoid, not straight to the battery. Wire from your solenoid should go to the BAT terminal on your ignition switch. If I am not mistaken, it should actually go through the light switch circuit and then to the ignition switch, but that depends on how it's wired in your conversion. Wire from RUN position should go to + side of the coil. it should not have power unless key is in RUN or START position. You should ohm out your switch to make sure you are only supplying power to the coil when the key is in the run position and not in the acc position. Simply put: Open circuit to other posts with key off. ACC key position only has closed circuit from BAT to ACC terminals and nothing to RUN terminal. RUN key position should only have closed circuit to everything but START terminal. START position should have power to RUN and START. The reason I say you should ohm out your switch is that sometimes they fail and power goes to places it shouldn't. This could be a problem that will haunt you until you trace it down to the ignition switch. A few minutes taking out the switch and bench testing it might save you a ton of grief.
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