I have a 1965 348 rebuilt engine in a 1957 Chevy 3/4 to truck (NAPCO). I installed a CenterForce Clutch and pressure plate appropriate for the engine. I also have the long throwout bearing. The clutch fork is a the cast type. The problem is that the transmission will not go into gear (engine running). It appears the clutch is not engaging all the way. All the measurements and fork angle seem correct according to the CenterForce spec. sheet. When I try to compensate the fork linkage to get increase throw-out bearing travel, I either break or lose the pivot pin holding the fork to the pivot ball. Measuring, the Centerforce ***embly is about an inch shorter that the stock one that is on my 283 which was originally in the truck and worked fine. I'm wondering if the Centerforce pressure plate/clutch ***embly is just wrong for the truck application (bell-housing and forged fork). Any opinions before I do another un-install would be much appreciated. Thanks, don
". When I try to compensate the fork linkage to get increase throw-out bearing travel, I either break or lose the pivot pin holding the fork to the pivot ball. " I put a early Olds motor w/T5 into a guys 37 mopar. Bear with my description... The car owner had already bought an Eelco bellhousing "supposedly made for this motor-to-trans swap" Then the owner bought a Centerforce clutch, a repro flywheel, a TOB and a ball-stud from Ross Racing (Goatroper02 on hamb) Anyways, I could not use the ball pivot that attaches to the inside of the Eelco bell. It was WAY too short. It was not Goatropers mistake, because the Eelco bellhousing was different than his Ross style bell. What we did was use a special grade 8 carraige head bolt I had, that was longer than the one from Ross. It works perfect now. The car does not run yet, but total disengagement was tested by trying to turn the trans output yoke, while slowly pushing the cluch pedal down. It did disengage about 2/3 rds the way down, like it should.
I forgot to ask what your fork angle is without depressing the clutch, and TOB just barely touching the plate... Looking from above the bell, and the trans shaft represents 12 O'clock, I set the TOB arm at 10 O'clock or so.....11 is too much, 9 is too little IMO You said you were breaking parts, so it sounds like your total (depressed to floor) angle is going further than the physical limits of the ball and socket. So, if your angle is way off, like below 9 O'clock, a longer ball stud should be the answer
This differs from your exact application, but: the Centerforce 12" clutch for my big block would not work with a stock flywheel. I had to buy a Centerforce flywheel.
Wanted to close this thread. Thanks for all the replies. Ends up it was the throw-our bearing. The stock one was too long. The short version solved the problem. Thanks, don
Thanks for posting the solution. Good info.I'll log it somewhere in my grey matter. Now if I can just find it when I need it. I had a different problem with a OT Toyota 4x4. Pulled down for a new clutch. Buddy told me to go with a centerforce clutch. I didn't want to spend the extra money. Put in an after market clutch and plate. Mis matched from two differnt manufactuters and got it all back together and it slipped worse that the oldie I took out. Friction disc too thin. Put in Centerforce and no problems. worked great. Got good at r&ring thransmission and transfer case. It's the little things in life that will drive you crazy.YRUHOT...Doug
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