Anyone have any experience with Elite Engineering PCV oil catch can? The concept makes a lot of sense. google Elite Engineering. Ago
That catch can thing started with engines with lots of boost, thus more than normal blow by....The catch cans work but only for short periods of time as when the oil reaches a certain level it becomes non effective...IMO, not worth the price of admission..
Oil accumulation in the PCV hose can be a problem even with engines running Total Seal rings a lot of short trips , moving in and out of the garage and the high vaccum will accumulate some and not because of blowby but because of the fact in case any had forgot there is a lot of oil spraying around in the valve cover. Ford used to have a bleed off on some PVC hoses in the 70s on certain models. In fact in the early days of Total Seal back when you got the candys with the rings there used to be a little note warning you. Catch can is an interesting idea but would still need draining. I stopped using total seal on street for just this reason. don
Loud bang I read my conversations, thanks. How about a PCV catch can that drains back to the crank case? Ago
the crankcase acts like a monster air pump from the pistons going up and down and will blow the oil in the catch can out , hardly any thing can flow back down thats a vapor and the pipe would have to be large diameter to not see effects of the pumping pulses .
I use a 1 qt catch can on a couple of engines that drain (via 12AN)directly back to the pan. Internal baffling helps to coalesce the vapors. Works great, both are high rpm applications.
I recently spent some time with a very interesting crank case ventilation system. There was no pcv valve, but 1 hose out of each valve over plumed into a boxed frame with open ends. The instal was very clean, super sanitary actually as well as the whole engine bay I'd never seen that before but I did take notes.
I don't understand your comment about Total seal rings. I would think better ring seal would be less blow by? Ago
I put a separator in the pcv hose to manifold and while it did catch oil it didn't have to accumulate much to be stirred up and passed through..My solution was to make a little oil pump driven by the tach drive on the distributor, key is the pump has to be able to maintain more vacuum than the engine ever makes for it to work continuously..In one pic with engine off you can see the oil that was in the separator in the oil line, when engine is started it gets pumped right out..Some [small amount] of the pumped oil goes to lube the dist tach drive gears and exits through the bottom dist bearing and the rest goes back to crankcase via original dip stick hole in timing cover ...As Don stated a lot of oil splashing around in valve cover..As usual I took the long way home but has worked good for 5 or so years reducing oil use from 500 miles/quart to 1000 miles/can't see oil level drop on dip stick..Spark plugs do run way cleaner, noticed a big difference ...
No this doesn't happen in the real world. I know because I have had one on my OT car for 4 years and never had anything like that happen. Oil is heaver than air and fails out of suspension down to the bottom crossing ANY gap. Try reading from the guys that build them for nascar where they also have never had any blow out problems. not my site just passing on good info. http://www.shophemi.com/images/media/p-2273-arrington_ccv_bible.pdf
a crankcase pumps lots of air back and forth between the front and the back , this is the reason why they had to put windows in the ls series motors lower end and why some of the dip sticks pop out if the seal is bad on them . its not as prevelent with a open style crankcase like a old fashioned SbC but its still there , the pcv catch can by it self is just a a vapor filter to catch any oil mist and you drain it off at the end of the racing session , we use them on the turbo/CS cars as they have extreme blowby at high boost . in a ordinary street vehicle a pcv catch can is a waste of money unless your running a real tight a/f ignition curve ( EFI) which any oil mist might cause a detonation problem . with a Carbed engine it would not show any enhancement as the carb is a toilet compared to a efi unit .
Not really on my OT modern low mileage car I still collect over several teaspoons of liquid oil in between 5000km oil changes. And the engine comes stock with an oil mist separating system prior to the PCV system. I added it after finding traces of oil collecting in the bottom of the intake runners that carry air only plus whatever crap the PCV system is putting back into the engine through a port on the intake. Removing anything that is contaminating the A/F mixture is a good thing.
This was a popular DIY project in the 70's in some circles, probably earlier. Get a windshield washer fluid jar and bracket from a 50's high end car. Modify the lid with a 3/8" barbed inlet and outlet fitting. Hang a 8 oz beer can on the outlet inside the jar with the beer can bottom cut out, filled with small glass beads from the hardware store, and retained with a disc of window screen. Connect the valve cover vent to the inlet and the PCV to the outlet. Dump the oil when ever it got half way up to the bottom of the beer can. You'd be surprised how much longer intakes and spark plugs stay clean on some engines. They were called a crankcase coalescing filter when I first heard about them.
All they are is a road Draft tube with a can to collect the oil instead of dumping it onto the road and all over the bottom of your car..
Dave, since your pcv is blown shut under boost from your blower, maybe build a single air/oil separator with large -12an or dual -10an fittings connected to the valley cover on your hemi. The large A-N fittings should allow a proper ccv system under boost. To help eliminate that oily crankcase smell in the car with the windshield open, you could connect the other end of the separator to the air cleaner bases. Jeff.
Shouldn't be plumbed to the manifold as as you stated it would get boosted closed and any blow by from boost would pressurize the crank case come out where ever it could, seals, gaskets, any push in valve cover item including the pcv valve.....It should be plumbed to under carb... above blower area..
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