I've named this project "Russian Dolls", though this is Russian dolls with a difference. I'm going to put the biggest doll in the next smallest and so on. So here's what's going on. I'm putting the V8 engine from this: And the automatic transmission from this: into the frame from this: which is shrunk down and fitted within the frame rails from this: which in turn are shrunk down to fit under the body from this: which in turn is lowered until it looks a bit like this: The engine is a 300hp built nailhead, the transmission an alu Powerglide. We have a Model-T rear crossmember and spring and Buick front drums. The body is a mint rust free '27 roadster. Started it last week.
I dig the way you wrote this Most of my friends just don't get IT They see the Caddy, Mercury, Oldsmobile parts going into my Ford and say, why would you want to do THAT I just Laugh Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App
They are also called matryoshka dolls. Are these parts that you already had, or did you purposely set out to make this as difficult as possible? Either way, I'm totally digging the project. Can't wait to see what happens.....
Does this for any BOP? Will it fit behind a Rover 3500? What does it cost? Does it say Bendtsen? Like a Danish Sir name? If this is gonna be half as cool as the other things you post, I'm in all the Way !
Well the man I'm building for brought me the T-roadster body. He also already had the Nailhead built and fitted to the PG. So those items were our start. I found the painting of the maroon '27 in Street Rodder which appealed to us both, so that dictated '32 rails. However, the '27 body is so mint I wanted to cut the body about the least possible, so the frame is being built to fit the body. I'll post pictures of the frame next week. It'll surprise ya all! Oh and it will be very light, very fast but built to look factory stock, hence the '46 Merc I put in there.
I am actually very interested to see the frame, I assume you are using the Merc x-member? I have an Anderegg inspired coupester in the works, am thinking in terms of something similar, but with 1/4 elliptics at the rear instead of a transverse leaf.
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh Myyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy.Another sweet "Jigsaw"puzzel from the H.A.M.B. Good luck.Have fun.Be safe. Leo
Actually almost all of the Merc frame is used. The outside rails flow into the '32 rails, and the kick up is reprofiled to lower the frame further. Merc frames continued to use the pre-war welded centre X after the war. Ford switched to a riveted centre section after the war, I guess for cost reasons. The Merc frame is longer so I guess they left it as was to save retooling it.
Godlloyd you aint make it in opposite direction... ya know what i mean! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
OK this is where we're at now. Nice mint roadster body. '32 repro rails. Merc frame shrunk to fit. Next up is the place the welded center box section in the frame. The Merc outside rails fit within the '32 rails with a little persuasion. I've cut holes in the Merc side rails to reduce weight and because Ford would have too. '47 Merc front legs flow into to '32 rails with a little modification and are lengthen forward by a pair of rear inner legs from another '48 frame. Incredible roadster body looks like it's a couple of years old. A lovely experience and a pleasure to be working with tin like this! Original '40-'48 rear kick up, just kicked up further. Temporary X-brace before the rear crossmember goes in. However I'll probably use an X-brace here to support the tank which will also cross brace the kickup. An original rust free Model-T rear crossmember will be installed here. The rails are perpendicular. It's the camera lens makes them look like they're leaning outwards. Just enough room for a rear axle and gas tank. Trunk will have no floor. The frame will be reprofiled a bit at the end so I can shut the trunk lid. Those inside rails are the original '47 Merc frame rails. Oh the shame;-) A bit of rust under the seat!
The smallest doll in the project is this unlikely donar. I'll be using the brake pedal, MC and servo from a Smart! Not this actual one, that's mine. And here's why: OEM quality - Underfloor MC with a compact servo - Standing pedal with a circular pad - Remote reservoir which I can place up in the cowl - light weight - Available for about $50 complete.
I love the way you've taken the late model Ford frame and configured it inside the '32 rails. Not sure about the Smart car brake assembly, but I bet you'll disguise it well. Looking forward to progress.
The Jalopy Journal
