Turns out my 30" column isn't long enough, can't return it. I'm using 2 universals, vega box and a longer steering shaft will drop the back universal far enough to gain me the header clearance I need. I'd like to try 3-6" longer on the actual column shaft by cutting the shaft , use a DOM sleeve, and rewelding it to the length I need. Sleeve will be inside the column. I am not concerned with the sleeve splice weld as it will be trued up on the lathe and welded by a guy who's welding I'd bet my life on any day. Is this going to introduce some deflection in the shaft that's extended beyond the lower column bearing? Anybody else do this modification?
Have done it many times on stock 40 columns-mate top piece (55-57 chevy steering shaft) to piece of Double D on the bottom with sleeve inside the column--Have them done by a guy who does Bonneville cars and other certified race cars.
I just did it on a 57 ford hollow shaft to solid 3/4" machined to Double D on the end. We chamfered and **** welded the shafts, trued on the lathe than welded the sleeve to end up inside the column. For added peace of mind, I added two pins through the sleeve (one through the original hollow shaft and one through the new 3/4")
I would keep the extension as short as possible, especially if the lower bushing is like the factory nylon. What about extending the column an equal amount so that the lower bushing can provide more support? Chrome column?
I'm more than reasonly certain that theextension beyond the bearing will increase the load and stress on the bearing. I'm also more than reasonably certain that this will eventually cause a premature failure. B U T How long will it perform flawlessly, how many revolutions of the column will it take vs unaltered? Chances are the car will be sold 4 times before it gives troubles. Extending the exterior column as well is an excellent idea.
I have done it on some of my builds. I usually center a 3 or 4" piece on the joint inside, then V the joint and penetrate the first p*** to the inside piece then fill the joint. I always do this with a tig! Never an issue just don't undercut the base metal.
It's really not too hard to make a new one-piece steering shaft. Anyone with a little machining knowledge could knock one out in no time, especially if it like an early Ford (without splines) on top. I would extend the outer housing a similar amount if possible to better support the inner shaft at it's new length.
I cobbled together a '56 Chevy Panel Truck and wanted to put the shifter for an automatic on the column without it looking like a tree trunk. It had a Firebird clip with front steer. So, I found a '64 Chevy Nova column and made a drop from the original by cutting it apart and welding so the Nova column fit closer to the dash. The idea was to make it work with the one Borgenson joint I bought from Pete Eastwood. I was on a very thin budget and building it under the shade tree in my front yard. The shaft was cobbled together from the original Nova, a piece GM tubing that would fit over it and the lower portion that part held the joint, itself to be attached to the steering box. I mocked all this up and marked it and took the bus to Monrovia to Eric Vaughn's 'second old shop' on Palms where he put the two shafts in his lathe and, because there was a little slop in the fitment with the collar, he knurled both ends, then put the whole shebang in the lathe and tigged it up. Going back home, the p***engers stared at me like I was Moondog with his spear walking down the streets of NYC but I prevailed and the Panel rose from the dead. The idea is not to make stuff so complicated you can't figure a way to make it work even when life is kicking you in the teeth from all the other fights you have to continually keep your hand in, just to stay on your feet and keep on keepin' on. Simple is good. Real simple. K.I.S.S.
I used a late 60's Chevy 4 speed pickup column and shortened the tube 3 or 4" but not the shaft, amounting to the same thing you want to do. Using the stock used bearing set up I haven't had any trouble in 21k miles. Blue
Even the factory columns on some vehicles have a lot of shaft sticking out and no issues I would say not a problem unless you have a foot of stick out and a steep u-joint angle. One example I can think of is late 60s-early 70s Ford pickup columns compare the 4 speed columns between the power and non power steering, there is a significant difference. Jim Ford
Mechanically, there should be no problem; but in the long run, will you be happy with the appearance? Will it look like a compromise to you in the future. You can always sell your 30" column, recoup some $, and buy the correct column. Wouldn't be the first time a hot rodder had to change out new parts.
All my late model stock cars had just a 3/4" x .125" wall DOM tube steel steering shaft supported by heim joints with NO outer shell and bearings for support. MY 27T roadster is set up like this also. As far as I'm concerned the outer shell is only cosmetic. I would have no problem with a steering shaft welded by a competent welder. My thought on the through pins after welding is that you only weaken the joint with the hole. Extend away.
I'm not questioning anyone's ability to weld, but I've always felt that welding any steering components should be a VERY last resort to getting from point A to point B. Welding shouldn't be a short cut to making the parts you have "on hand" work instead of buying the correct parts. Sell the column and buy the right part that fits. Probably be less work and you'll fell better in the end. It's part of building a Hot Rod. We've all been there. Car swap meets are full of parts such as wheels that wouldn't fit an intended application. It'll be a higher quality build and they'll be less eye brow raising buy prospective buyers when and if you sell. Another factor is that you'll be 'hiding' the weld splice inside the column, making periodic inspections impossible.
Remember when street rodders were using the steering shaft from a Pinto that looked like a heavy speedometer cable. That has to be shaky. ago
I had one on a 30 Model A ; it was connected to a shortened Pinto rack and a Corvair IFS. I drove it for 3 years. I don't think I would use that today, but the only issue I had was the longer turning radius.
thanks all for the input, greatly appreciated. I ended up leaving the steering shaft alone and found the header clearance I needed. Torch, piece of pipe, and a hammer on the header. It's why I've never buy hemi headers ceramic coated, they always need some "encouragement". Didn't take too much to get the needed clearance. I had a nice pr of truck ex manifolds that everything was mocked up with pre paint/***embly but once blasted revealed cracks hence the block huggers/ clearance issues. car's a keeper, I hang onto the cars I build til the bitter end.
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