Features Doing Falcons Right

Oh no.....

Not a solid lead but I remember seeing them for sale recently so there out there. Good luck.

 

Already found all of the repair parts, and LOCALLY too!

 

What are you guy using for engine mounts, im covertimg my 6 cyl over. Would like to find some poly mounts ,can I just use stock 1963 v8 mounts? Im using a 302, didnt know if there were any differences between the 260 block

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How bad is it Gimpy?

 

The 260 mounts have the same spacing as all the other Windsor based SBF engines.
You'll need the right and left rubber insulated engine mounts (Rock Auto DEA A2220 and A2221).
The V-8frame mounts:
http://www.falconparts.com/ford-falcon-auto-parts/pc/1960-1965-V-8-FRAME-MOUNTS-65p492.htm ,
And the intermediate brackets:
http://www.falconparts.com/ford-fal...1965-V-8-INTERMEDIATE-MOUNT-BRACKETS-p547.htm

It looks like this.....I'm using an 87 E7TE 5.0/302 block.

 

And I recommend the "under engine" brace, too if you're converting an I6 car:
http://www.falconparts.com/ford-falcon-auto-parts/pc/1960-1965-UNDER-ENGINE-BRACES-V-8-18p1151.htm

 

I'd add frame connectors and other braces to stiffen the chassis 1. To reduce flex from the v8 on hard launches 2. Help with cornering

 

Are you sure you want poly mounts? You'd probably transmit enough vibration to rattle your teeth loose.

 

I wouldn't. I refuse to install them, unless on a race car. Most often, the only time I deal with them is when someone comes to me to take them out.

 

The very outboard end of the driver's side of the bumper got tipped into the quarter panel. that tugged the tail panel in by about 3/4", and the area under the tail light by about 2".

It is all very fixable. I already have all of the parts, including the bumper. My bodyman is ready to go. Just waiting for the insurance company to stop dragging its feet, and cut the check.

While it is there, we are going to do all of the other bodywork: mod'd front wheel arches in the rear, better outer wheel houses, shaved gas cap, Jag flip-cap, shaved antenna, shaved emblems. Paint, polish, rubber.

I am poking around for a hood, as mine has some deep pits, from ancient paint failure. Tossing around the idea of louvers, if I could just find someone to do them...

 

Thanks that is a HUGE help

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Poly is excellent for precise control. That said, poly bushings are just a degree or two away from a solid connection in terms of vibration transfer. Like you can't hold the steering wheel for an hour bad.

I like them only on anti-sway bar end links, and only else where a rubber bushing has already proven problematic.

 

I recently did a T5 swap which required some modifying of an existing C4 transmission mount. On the first test drive it felt like the whole damn car was shaking like it was missing a couple of cylinders. Turns out one of the upper trans mount bolts was touching the crossmember wing and sending all the vibrations up through the floor. I clearanced the wing some more and bingo, vibration solved. On another OT car, an annoying vibration resulted from a stone that kicked up and wedged itself between the trans and the crossmember, denying the rubber the chance to dampen the vibrations. I could never live with solid or poly mounts.

 

Well, I happen to know a way to make louvers happen!

 

a $500 roller project that some day will run at Bonneville:

 

I remember reading that somewhere.

 

any of you guys have a 1963 8" rear laying around in the new England area I need one!

 

63 eight inchers are getting scarce.....
This Virginia HAMB member has a complete 1963 5 lug V-8 eight inch; it's an open 2:80 or 3:25 I think:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/members/dagonitwit.22337/
Send him a PM or start a conversation or whatever it's called these days....

 

^ thanks what z bar did you use. I wonder if a 65 falcon z bar would work putting a 302 in a 1963 . Or I will have to make one to fit

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Is that a Mustang II front end?

 

Sorry, cant help with that; I'm running an AOD (automatic trans).

 

The 1963 260 z-bar will work.

 

I apologize in advance for the terrible pictures but...

Trying to identify the bellhousing I used when I did the T5 swap. The whole mess was a swap meet score. The CPC adapter came with a Bell, clutch, flywheel and starter.









The starter is going out. I remember that the starter from my 63 3spd/170 did not bolt up so I used what was included. Just looking for an idea of what to order.

 

It looks like a 9" Falcon-6 clutch bellhousing.

If the starter is held on with two bolts, and not three, you would ask the parts jockey for a starter for a 1965 Mustang, with a 200.

 

Thanks Gimpy

 

No, the 260 is narrower at the bell than the 302, therefore the Z-bar is wider.

 

Isn't the ball on the block?

 

Yes it is. The back of block (at the bell) is narrower.

 

Okay, now I'm not following Mike. I thought all Windsor SBF's were dimensionally identical 'cept the 351 that has a taller deck height...
Is the ball mount in a different location on the block? I'm too lazy to drive a clutch so I was just wondering...


Posted from an IBM Selectric

 

Early 221 and 260s were 5 bolt bell housings. Later 260s and 289s were 6 bolt bell housings. The 6 bolt blocks are about 1&1/4 inches wider than 5 bolts. It is not a big deal all you have to do is shorten the z bar from the block side.