Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical '47 24 Stud Pattern

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Shooter75, Nov 24, 2014.

  1. Shooter75
    Joined: Sep 11, 2014
    Posts: 4

    Shooter75
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Good morning everyone, I am new to the flathead world and I am currently looking for info on which stud goes where. I have a 59 block with 59A heads, is there a good book I should look to buy or a good source online that will show the stud pattern? I found that there are three different part number studs that are suppose to be there....ending in 6065, 6066 and 6067, I just have not been able to find the info on where exactly each of them is suppose to go.

    Thank you in advance for any help.
    Mike
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Short studs go to the bottom of block,,,long ones to the top...interemed in center,,,,If you buy new studs,they will come in a set.
    stick them thru your bare heads and you can tell easily the differences
     
    Shooter75 likes this.
  3. 36tbird
    Joined: Feb 1, 2005
    Posts: 1,153

    36tbird
    Member

    Don't make the mistake of chasing the threads in the block with a regular tap. Read up here and Fordbarn.com for what to do properly. Also, ATF and Acetone will be your friend to get the old studs out. When that doesn't work study up on the wax and welding of nuts on methods of stud removal. Welcome to flatheads.
     
    Shooter75 likes this.
  4. falcal762
    Joined: Aug 2, 2010
    Posts: 9

    falcal762
    Member
    from FT.Worth

    Hi Shooter, I think I see your problem. You have 3 broken studs, right? If you just want to replace those, you'll need 1 long,1 medium, and 1 short stud. If you are about to rebuild your engine they will all have to come out and I recommend you replace all with new ones. I know a lot of guys are calling "bullshit" right now and "the old ones are still good". I just prefer to know that my studs are new and haven't been stressed by overtorqueing and overheating. Before you start your project your gonna want know you have a good block. That means it's all gonna have to come apart. The block is gonna have to be (at least) hot tanked, magnafluxed, and pressure tested. It's a very small price to pay before you start spending money on a rebuild. I don't want to discourage you, flatty's are super cool but priceyer than a small block chevy. Trust me I have had a very expensive education on flathead motors and have more than one boat anchor (ford flathead) in my shop right now. If you are still determaned after reading this post there are some very good books to read before you start. "Ford Flathead V8 Builders Handbook" by Frank Oddo, very informative and a lot of good resources in the back. "Rebuilding The Famous Ford Flathead" by Ron Bishop, this guy lives and breathes flatty's, he also has some great videos on utube. "Ford Speed Manual" by Bill Fisher, it was published in the '50s but it has a lot of great tech tips that still apply today. You also have the HAMB, there is a lot of knowledge reading these posts and I wish I had a 10th of what some of these guys know. I wish you luck and I hope I you go ahead build/fix that flatty there's nothing cooler!!!!!!
     
    Shooter75 likes this.
  5. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    This and MANY other questions are covered by the chassis parts catalog, once you learn how it's organized.
     
    Shooter75 likes this.
  6. Don't forget Ole Ron's book-nostalgia and JWL's book.
     
    Shooter75 likes this.
  7. Shooter75
    Joined: Sep 11, 2014
    Posts: 4

    Shooter75
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Thank You all for the info, I will check out the books. My current plan is to just get it running again. I took the passenger head off because of zero compression in 3 & 4. and i was worried that the valves were stuck. It was a learning experience pulling, tugging, building a puller to get the head off. I finally go to cleaning the deck surface a little last night and turned the engine over to check the valves. Looks like I just need a head gasket and replace a couple of bad studs. On the bright side its bored 30 over and I thought it was cool to see the valves with the Ford logo stamped on them.
    valve piston.jpg

    Cylinders 2.jpg
     
  8. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    OK, you are hooked!
    Bookage...for a desert island library, excellent basics of both rebuild and hopping, Ron Hollerans book, which is available from Van pelt sales...
    get the '37-48 Ford engine rebuilding manual, C&G Ford parts for this and others
    van pelt also has exploded views from parts books
    For more...C&G
    DG-068
    Service Manual

    42-48 Passenger Note: 223 pages
    42-48 Mercury Note: 223 pages
    42-47 Pickup Note: 223 pages

    Return to Top of Page
    Price $10.00 ea (USD)



    V-222
    Service Manual

    39-48 Passenger & Pickup Note: 475 pages
    Return to Top of Page
    Price $60.00 ea (USD) (if this is what I am thinking, it is expanded reprint of 1946 Canadian car and truck full shop manual)
    Flathead Engine Repair Manual
    37-48 Passenger Note: 64 pages
    39-48 Mercury Note: 64 pages
    37-47 Pickup Note: 64 pages

    Return to Top of Page
    Price $13.00 ea (USD)

    Turn it over several times by crank nut and verify that all valves are moving...some may need a shot of oil down the hole and closing assistance by tapping with hammer til the free up. Common cause of zeros on the compression.
     
  9. joel
    Joined: Oct 10, 2009
    Posts: 2,553

    joel
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Fordbolts.com for the head studs. It looks like you may have a nice non relieved engine. Good luck.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.