Hey everyone I was cruising through the FAQ and read about some people using anchor motor mounts I wanted to know if I could get some feedback on how they worked if any plates needed to be made will the stock throttle linkage still work is there any fan and radiator interference I'm running a 302 carb set up T-5 ****** in a 55 Fairlane Thanks guys for any info
Click on this: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/media/albums/289-302-351w-swap-mounts.41498/ It shows you in pictures how to prep the car to use the mounts and the part numbers you will need,the trans mount may require some fabrication on your part depending in the donor your T-5 came from.The fan and radiator issue I can help you with too,are you replacing a 6 cyl or Y-block with the 302? WARNING! The ANCHOR motor mount part numbers were posted several years ago,they are made under several trade names, LOOK and see where they are made if it says China or India be advised the rubber may be junk quality here and on several other forums we have seen issues with them separating and the rubber cracking in less than a year.This is a better option:http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-1995-M...its=Model:Mustang&hash=item43c0cba31b&vxp=mtr
Yeah my car is a original V8 car the FAQ post I was looking at had a link to Amazon.com and it showed the basically the same ones just a lot less expensive are you running these same style mounts? Another option I've seen is using 65 falcon V8 mounts with a 1"1/2 x 1/4" plate with holes drilled to pick up the mount and another set of holes and 2" tall aluminum spacers to pick up the motor itself and that one I've seen works with the stock throttle linkage and no interference with the radiator, I guess it doesn't matter to much I'm going to run a electric fan. My main concern is keeping the the stock throttle linkage I'm trying to look as period correct as I can I'm not to huge on aftermarket parts if I don't need them
The late Mustang mounts we use are taller therefore using spacers with an early Falcon mount is not necessary,the spacer thing was really a band-aid guys used before the late model mounts were discovered.I know guys adapted stock linkage using hardware store parts so that is not a real challenge.Define what "period correct" means to you,as that may help us point you in the right direction.Since you want to run a 302 and T-5 most folks would not look at that as "period correct" looking anyway so lets look at the issues you face with this swap.The taller mounts do help with exhaust manifold clearance at the steering box which is why the spacer thing came to be,we do know that the best exhaust clearance is with the HEDMAN 88400 headers but if you want to use manifolds there are several options just ask.You will need to convert to a hydraulic clutch as the stock linkage just won't play nice with a 302 swap.This will give you some good info you can adapt:http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/09/t5swap/index.php The 239-302's are slightly longer than the old y-block, 6 cyl cars had the radiator mount positioned more ahead than V-8 cars.You can shorten them a bunch by using the 1966-69 289 "short pump" this explains that: Scroll down to my post,http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sbf-short-water-pump-pulleys.303600/ look at the pictures too.
Unfortunately for me the Mustang mounts didn't work... I'm running a 302 with a T-5 as well, and with the mustang mounts the engine sat just a little too high and the transmission was contacting the tunnel an the drivers side valve cover was hitting the throttle lever just barely. I think there is quite a bit of variation between cars, so what may work for one may not for another... best bet will probably be to get a couple different cheap Anchor mounts to start with and return what doesn't work, and then once you have everything situated swap them out for urethane versions if you want. I'm using the 260 Falcon mounts (2220 and 2221) with just a couple of maybe 2mm thick washers on each side between the mount and the cross-member pad for oil pan clearance, and a slot cut in the stock pad. I'm using some universal Energy Suspension Transmission Cross-member Bushings 3-1109G with the stock trans cross-member and the tail shaft sits perfectly between the cross-member and floor with about 5/16" to spare all around. I'm also using the stock throttle linkage lever with just a new rod between the lever and carb. There's some more details and pictures here, hopefully I'll be able to get up some more photos soon now that my swap is all wrapped up. I also tried to dress it up a bit to look more period correct and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
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