1952-59 Ford my 4.6 dohc powered 57 Custom, aka, doing it the easy way

Reading some of Paddycake's thread on installing an LS motor in his '54 Customline got me to rethinking about something I did for mine.....I was very happy I decided to spend a few bucks up front to make my life a whole lot easier. First, a little background...I'm old, I'm working in a one car converted carport with a dirt floor, I'm on a budget,I've never done an engine conversion (actually I've never previously modified anything on a car), I have basic equiptment, and the roof on my work area is so low, I can't use a cherry picker in it, so my '57 was going to have to be pushed out of the garage, thru the yard taking down a fence so I could get it on our driveway. Completed upholstery, but no gl***, meant I needed to get the engine/****** installed and the car back under cover as quickly as posible. I kept reading threads like Paddycakes where the engine/****** were in and out numerous times. Threads I was reading on 4.6 installs were doing the same back and forth, in and out. I needed to figure a way I could get the engine/****** installed once correctly and done.....here's what I came up with......

 

The '94 Mark VIII in the pic was a high mileage car I bought years ago that ended up not being used. I pulled the drivetrain, computers, body parts and sent it to salvage. (My new donor car was a one owner, 52K '95 Mark Viii.). I gutted the ****** down to an empty case, and found the plastic 4.6 block at a swap meet in Witchita, Ks. It is manufactured by a company in Kansas called P-AYR, and they had a booth at the Sunflower swap meet. This particular casting had some flaws in it that prevented them from selling it as a display block but was perfectly fine for use as a mock-up. They are normally in the 350. range if I remember, but I got this one for 100. Stores use them for displaying external engine components..valve covers, intakes, headers, etc. They are an exact duplicate of the external features on real blocks, and everything external can be mounted on them such as heads, exhaust, oil pans, ******s, motor mounts etc. They use metal threaded inserts at the mounting holes. Weight is about 25 lbs total!!, about 65 with the gutted ****** case attached. Anyway, the gist of this thread is I was able to install the drivetrain once and done once I got to the real thing!!
I used it to modify my ****** crossmember, determine engine position, prep the oem engine mount pads, modify the oil pan, etc...This combo went in and out 3 or 4 times, but, just reach down, pick it up, and put it to the side...no struggling with a 720 lb engine/****** combo.
A friend has already used it to set up a '36 CHEV for the same 4.6 dohc/4R70W

 

some pics...

 

looks real nice in there, have you figured out which exhaust manifolds to use yet?

 

Awsome. Keep us posted.

 

The pics posted above were taken a year ago. The neat thing about a late model donor car...That drivetrain was pulled from the Mark VIII without even an engine hoist. Sawzall the font core/wire harness, unbolt the K-member and drop it on some 10. Harbor Freight dollies and roll it on out!
The drivetrain is now installed as far as plumbing goes...radiator, hoses, fuel tank and lines,Mustang hydro-boost brake booster,fans, A?c lines, heater hoses, air intake,shifter, throttle linkage,etc, etc.
Motor mounts were oem '99(?)Mustang..they are attached to the block in the first pic. Only mod to the '57 engine crossmember was cutting a slot in the mounting pad. Exhaust manifolds are 02 Mustang Cobra...clear everything, but close to the p***enger side control arm. I used an off-road Mustang Cobra downpipe/h-pipe kit and modified it to clear the ****** crossmember. I've only gone as far as the H-pipe with the exhaust so far. The oem ****** crossmember had to be modified for trans. pan clearance.
I'm using a Ron Francis/Televek wiring harness for the computer..will be starting that before too long.
The oil pan & pickup is off a '95 Lincoln Continental..front sump. I do have rack and pinion in the car, and the oil pan had to be moded slightly to clear the rubber rack boot..not sure I had to, but I only want to do stuff once.
I had a ss power steering reservoir custom made with two returns to facilitate both the hydroboost and rack requiring return lines.
I'm using the Mark VIII electric fans mounted to an aluminum version of the '57 radiator. I'm also using the Mark VIII shifter modified to fit in my console.
I modified the Mark VIII intake plenum, cutting off some unneeded stuff,patching the holes and painted to match the engine compartment... added a K&N filter
Edit: I mentioned the oil pan had to be modified to clear the rack and pinion...actually that's not accurate. I had to monify the oil pan to clear the crossmember so the engine could be pushed back a bit further for the bellhousing to clear the rack.

 

Beautiful work all around, hard to believe this is your first build. Can only imagine what your second build will be like.

 

The first pic shows the mods to the oem ****** crossmember. Note the rubberized firewall cover I made for the big hole around the steering column. That column is a 97 Mustang, btw. No clearance issues with the exhaust and R & P.
The second pic shows the modified Mark VIII intake plenum with the MAF sensor and K&N filter. I've still got to make a shroud for the air filter. Also in this pic is the Mark VIII fans. I did have to modify the 4.6's coolant pipe to angle the outlet upwards towards the outlet on the radiator. Note also the neat '00 (?)Mustang washer reservoir/pump. All that is visible in the engine compartment will be the filler neck. That washer is activated from the multi function switch on the fully functional Mustang steering column. Note also the valve covers are actually from a '98 coil on plug version of the 4.6. I will be converting to the cop's when I wire the engine...that will eliminate the coil packs and the spark plug wires. I had a harness made for this conversion. I wanted to install the replacement valve covers before I installed the Hydroboost, so I'm still using the plug wires, etc until it's rewired. The covers that go over the coils are polished aluminum...just looks kinda funky without them for the time being.
The Ron Francis/Televek harness uses the stock unmodified computer..no reflashing required. That only applies to '93-'96 Mark Viii's. later versions require reflashing to eliminate/change things such as the PATS system. No PATS on a '96 or older. In addition to the modified shifter, I also modified the Mark VIII's cable gas pedal and linkage, but in conjunction with an older style gas pedal, so I don't have that "floating" gas pedal look.
The last pic shows the Mustang ('02?)hydroboost. The banjo fittings on the booster (and Rack) are metric to AN banjos I aquired from Pure Choice Motorsports, in Arizona. They really clean up the installation, and on the rack eliminated clearance issues. I added a Wildwood proportioning valve with a low pressure switch, and all the brake lines are Ni-Copp.
The driveshaft, btw, is the Mark VIII aluminum. No mods were required except for a change of the rear u-joint to mate with the '57 9" rear. I am about an inch short of ideal engagement with the front yoke, but I can make that up when I have my complete rear end rebuilt. (Taller differential yokes are available). I have a lengthy thread going on this install (about 25 pages) on the 57fordsforever forum if anybody wants detailed info on this swap.

 

Thanks Zap.....it's only taken 8 or 9 years so far. I'll be pushing 70 in a few years when this is done, so I think this one will be my first and last. Heck, I've got to build a real garage to keep it in when it's finished...that's my next project.

 

OK, you need a garage but that car cover looks cosy.
Great work.

 

Beautiful work, and that 4.6 looks awesome!
And thanks for keeping your Ford, Powered By Ford

 

Another related topic...that low miles Mark VIII I bought at an insurance auction in Lubbock..about 125 miles from Amarillo, for $1000. As I had mentioned, it had 52,000 miles, and except for a crunched rear quarter, was almost flawless. As it turned out, the guy I sold it to ($400) after I removed what I needed, knows the original owner, and talked to him about the car. It was purchased new by him and garaged all it's life. He said the number of nights that car spent out of the garage in 19 years could be counted on one hand. He meticulously maintained it and never had an issue with the car. The white leather interior looked like it was never sat in. The independent rear suspension from that car is now sitting under my friends '56 f100...and he loves it. I also sold the 4 catalyctic converters to a salvage yard in OK City for 140.
I had considered repairing the colision damage and using it as a daily driver, but while I was trying to make that decision, we had a really bad hailstorm that decimated the car...making the decision to use it as a donor car, as originaly intended, really much easier.
Anyway, I got off topic as usual..my post was going to be about insurance auto auctions being a good source for newer model donor cars. There are ways of working around laws that prohibit private parties from buying vehicles at salvage autions. It's a state by state thing...some states allow private purchases, some don't, but as I said it can be easily and legally worked around...just costs a few bucks more.

 

Great job. Looks great.

 

Your doing a great job. HRP

 

Thanks guys. I don't get things done too quickly. Yesterday I pulled the old engine harness to clear things out for the new Ron Francis/Televek harness. To be honest, until recently I thought the ron francis kit plugged into the original harness...that's not the case, the new one completly replaces the old one. After I get the engine up and running, I'll complete the conversion to cop's. The cop valve covers are already on the engine, just with the oem plug wires still in use. I'm looking forward to getting rid of the plug wires and coil packs.

 

This build continues to blow what is left of my mind.... great work!

 

Thanks Bob..I'm waiting for some parts to come in, so in the meantime I started plugging in the new engine harness. I'm already on bag #61!, lol, I guess I should also tell you the numbers start at 60. This actually is going to be fun.
Your reply reminded me, later today when I have time, I'm going to do a post asking questions about the 59 grilles. Just a heads-up, hint hint.

 

I used one of those Francis/Telorvec harnesses in a '62 F-100 that I put a 4.6 in. The instructions were pretty easy to follow and it all worked out real well. I'd use them again although that wiring kit is pricy.

 

I love Ron Francis' quality..but you're right they are pricey. My engine harness was 910., a friend just got one from them for a 5.0 and it was in the 520. range. I'm also using them for the main ch***is harness. Total I've spent over 2k with them, but they are the best. I'm comfortable skimping in alot of areas to get my project done, but wiring isn't one of those areas.

 

I mentioned this kit is pricey...I should clarify that a little. This is definetly one of those "you get what you pay for" things. This harness comes in a very large box. When you spread it all out and look at the quality and quan***y, and if you didn't know what it costs, the first thing that would cross your mind is "this has got to be expensive".
My center console was originally designed to have an open package tray under the dash. I'm going to change that and mount the Telorvek panel there, with the computer up on the firewall. I've got just about all of the connectors plugged into the engine with the wires fed back to where they'll feed into the sidewall. I still have a dozen bags or so left, but they are for the ******, etc. I'm trying to figure out what to do for wiring looms, etc. to hide and protect the wires as much as posible. That tidying-up should be done before the wires are trimmed to length and attached to the panel. At this point is looks like it would be horibly confusing, but it really isn't...every one of those wires is printed with where it came from and what terminal on the panel it goes to. As mentioned all the connectors are pre-wired...computer and ignition control module are shown in the pics.That last pic was after 5 of the 15ish engine side bags.

 

The best thing about a harness like this and doing it yourself....the self tutorial it gives you!! Probably most guys are like me...you pop the hood on a newer computerized car and it's "Holy **** Batman, what is all this stuff?". Now I know what most of it is.
If I'm on the road and the car's check engine light comes on(it's got one), and starts throwing engine codes (yes, the harness has a connector for a code reader) and it says something like the "egr valve solinoid", or, "the maf sensor is not functioning" or "the crankshaft position sensor"...etc, etc.....I know where that stuff is! Yeah!!

 

T-57, you are correct. I feel it was worth the price as it did include a lot of stuff. I also learned a lot about FI wiring ,sensors, codes, etc. Had absolutely no problem with the engine running. I also got as high as 25+ mpg on the highway and averaged hi way/city at 17mpg. I'm using a 5.7 W in my '54 Ford Club Coupe and using the injection unit off of a 5.0 with a manifold adapter. Hope I get the same results.

 

Flyboy89....what 4.6 have you installed? if it's a Lincoln dohc version I have some questions on coolant sensors you might be able to answer.
edit...I'll just go ahead and ask....
95 Lincoln 4.6 dohc
95 Lincoln electric fans
The Telorvek wiring harness has a connector for the engine coolant temperature sensor which plugs into the top right side of the u-shaped coolant pipe. That's done..it's the only place it'll plug into.
The MarkVIII cooling fans require a special high amps relay kit that comes with it's own coolant temperature sensor.
Ron Francis suggests not plugging that sensor into an external port, such as the coolant pipes. Instead they recommend "finding an unused, plugged port" in either of the heads that goes into the water jacket? as an alternative, they suggest an "unused port" in the intake manifold. If any of those exists, I don't have a clue where they would be...any ideas?
Ron Francis suggests not installing that sensor in an external coolant pipe, however I'm thinking that may be my only choice realistically. There are two other sensors/sending units I've found. One is on the left side of that top u-shapped coolant pipe, and the other is on the rear exiting heater coolant pipe. both of those other sensors have the single threaded stud for a push-on terminal. I haven't figured out exactly what those other two sensors/sending units are.
somewhat confused.

 

T-57, I used a 2 valve 4.6. Year 2000 vintage. It was a new engine on a pallet. I think this engine was for a pick-up or Expedition. Can't remember. I did use electric fans on the radiator and I used 2 relays. I also needed another port for a temp sensor, so I used a threaded port on the left side of the block. Probably not the best spot, but it seemed to work. I never had any overheating problems, even when using the a/c in the summer in stop and go traffic. When the temp got up around 220 deg, the fans would come on and lower the temp. It worked quite well. I don't remember where the other sensor was. I sold the truck about a year ago. I'm not that familiar with the layout on a dohc 4.6.

 

Thanks for that info...I may have found the solution. I went out tonight with a flashlight to look at the spare engine in the back yard, and the right head has 2 plugged holes in the back end that look to be about the correct 3/8 pipe thread. I'm trying to find out if they go into the waterjacket....hopefully they do. It'll be a pita to get to it, but I do have enough room. Is this a normal thing...plugged holes in the heads? maybe for flushing? Not sure who would know what these particular holes are for.

 

Don't know about the 4.6, but my LS had a plugged hole in the p***enger head. Factory coolant temp sensor for the ECM went in the identical hole on the driver head. Common practice is drilling out the hole on the p***enger side and re-tapping it to SAE threads to run your typical aftermarket temp gauge. Well, that WAS common practice. Now Autometer and probably other gauge companies sell metric-to-SAE adapters that save you from drilling. Such an adapter might work for your fan relay probe/sender as well.

Here's an example of what I'm talking about:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-5284

 

Hopefully if the weather is good I'll get it all figured out this weekend on the spare engine. I'll get the tarp pulled off so I can get a better look. I'm probably going to plug up all the hoses and pipes but one, pull those plugs and hook up a garden hose.
There's no way I'm gonna pull that installed engine so I can tap out those back holes...I'll figure an alternate way if I have to. The odd thing about these 4.6's...most of it is metric, but definetly not all, so maybe they've just used a sae pipe thread there.

 

Update...those two rear plugged holes in the head are oil galley. I did find out from one of my Ford consultants that the rear sensor I mentioned was used in the Mark Viii's oem heat and air. Vintage Air doesn't use one in their setup,and fortunatly it is the correct 3/8 pipe thread, so I'm good to go.

 

Don't worry I got things under control...lol

 

Man,I remember laying in the floor and having all the wires wadded up in the floor...

Your doing a great job. HRP