That looks like way too much work for me. I usually just grind the heads off until they are flat with the frame.. and bang em once or twice with a hammer and punch and they come right out.
I do it the same way.....except I use the stepped bits from HF. No need to keep switching bits. Since I've discovered stepped bits, I rarely even use regular drill bits anymore.
Cool. Yep, that's me. Rivets seem to always be oh so much softer then frame. Punch and drill, versus grind and punch.....probably about the same time line. You can also drill one hole, and blow through with a torch too. Cool video. Thanks !!
What brand is the foam drill lub? Some times it's not possible to get a drill in position to use. Then what? I use a torch.
This can't possibly be your first YouTube video. You used a tripod and there's no bad music playing in the background. But I did enjoy the sound of the kids arguing out in the yard.
I did it like that back in the early 70's,before I had a side grinder. If there is a will there is always a way.HRP
Over the years I have tried all of the methods. Drilling , you wear out drill bits and some of the rivets are hard to get to...Torch or plasma, if you miss you burn the frame. The cleanest and easiest way is to use a hand or air chisel with the blade ground down on one side. Switch bits and punch out the rivet. About 30-40 seconds per rivet. Last frame there were about 50 rivets to remove. Wear ear and eye protection. Rick
I had to remove the "K" member in my '40 Chevy and I think I used every procedure known to man. It was a good excuse to buy some more tools too.
You seriously need to stop spraying your drill bit- that smoke is a poisonous and lethal gas! A friend of mine did the same thing and woke up in the hospital.
Oohh, that's way too much work, grind the head off the rivet down to the frame, two ball peen hammers, turn one peen side onto the rivet, smack the head of the hammer hard with the other hammer and watch the rivet fly.
You really don't need power tools. A good sharp chisel and a good hammer. A SHARP chisel is a good tool. ago
Hey whatever works. I had to drill and punch out about 5 rivets on each horn when I took them apart to fix up. Works great.
Trollst NEVER hit the faces of two hammers together unless you want to have one shatter and end up with shrapnel embedded in your hide.
I liked the video. Simple, clear, and the method can be applied with just about any rivet solid or hollow, using easily-available tools, so it's a go-to. Folks have got to learn somewhere, and for an amazing number of us, that somewhere is YouTube. Lately they are beating me up to get a super-duper ID, to the point where I can't even leave comments. I'll leave a message when the coast is clear
Thanks for the tip on the hammers, because its never happened to me doesn't mean it won't. Advise taken with gratitude, I learn something everyday.
You guys have any tips about best way to install new rivets? I have a Ford script flatbed that I need to tear down. I have only used a hand rivet gun for smaller rivets before. How do I install these larger rivets when it is time to re-assemble? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
jack_pine, I've been thinking about how to use the big rivets myself, though I wonder if I can actually get them tight enough to be structural. What I was considering was making a "bucking bar" from some heavy scrap with a depression to match the rivet head (probably by plunging a ball-nose mill) that clamps over the head, then quickly heating the shank of the rivet sticking through with a torch and then peening it down with a rivet set, either in my real rivet gun or just using a cheap air hammer. Seems like it's going to be tough to get in to some areas, though. The other choice, I guess, is to clamp the rivet in as tight as possible then run a bead around it, if it doesn't show on that side. That won't allow the rivet to expand like it should, but might work for the "riveted look". Or try and find a big pneumatic rivet squeezer on the auction site.
Weld the inside, it should be more solid. Years ago working in big machine shop, They replaced all the rivets in one of the many older overhead crane with hi-strength bolts. Better than rivets. They did the same thing in some of the older Pittsburgh bridges. Replaced the rivets with properly torqued bolts. Pittsburgh has many big steel bridges and the last rivet bridge job was 1960. All are now welded or bolted.
Yeah, I meant to say weld it on the inside, just didn't make myself clear. Another thing I was thinking about was actually using a die to thread the shank of the rivet and use a lock washer and nut to act as a bolt - using a 3/8 drive impact to run the nut up. I've got some trick aircraft fasteners that have a flat head and a hex section like a socket head cap screw but on the threaded end - haven't seen any big ones though, mine are all #10 or 1/4". They're called Hi-Lok pins, and it looks like the largest ones commonly available are 3/8".
Well I just finished stripping the Mrs 51 tin woody wagon front member,k member and spring brackets. Used air chisel, air punch, grinder.hat,gloves,glasses what a dirty job! But that was nothing compared to trying and install all the TCI parts that I was told would BOLT right in bull$%^&$#$##
Lots of helpful suggestions for bolts and welding as an alternative to installing rivets. I see that there are pneumatic tools for installing rivets. Is this a good avenue to consider if I want the "look?" Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The Jalopy Journal
