Last night I picked up a 30 model a coupe. Nice car mostly complete rust free. I've always been a 60s car person but it also always wanted a model A. The plan is to build a somewhat traditional hot rod. It's going to have a 355 mated to a t5. My question is regarding how to build the frame. I am leaning towards using the original frame boxing, it adding a crossmember, dropped front axle and a four link in the rear with coil overs. I know the coil overs are not particularly traditional but I think It will drive better than the buggy spring rear. My question is does anybody have a set up like that without Zing the frame? How does it look how does it drive? If anyone has a picture of the car set up this way I would appreciate it if you could post a picture. As soon as I get my coupe safe in my garage I'll post pictures of it. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Maybe I'm going about this wrong? I was reading in the tardel book about reversing the eyes and cutting the springs. But, I'm going to have around 400 horse, and I'm worried I'm over powering that set up. Maybe that with a quick change? I just am looking for advice. Any advice would be appreciated. I'm looking for a traditional not super low stance. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
What did you have in mind for ride height? An A frame with no Z rides really high - since the top of the rear axle will be about 15-18" or so above the pavement and the suspension travel between the frame rail and axle gets you higher than a lot of 4x4 trucks.
That's kind of what I'm afraid off. I like the look where the top of the rear tire follows the body line of the rear wheel well. Or maybe just above. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I like that stance. Nice car. I wonder how it would look fenderless Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Here's my '30 Model A coupe, 4 inch dropped front axle, stock front spring (eyes not reversed), Pete & Jake 4 bar front suspension, Pete & Jake Ladder Bar rear suspension, Corvair front coil springs used for the rear suspension. The frame is an original Model A frame, which I boxed. It has not been "Z'd". I used reproduction subrails and mounted the body just as it was done originally by Ford. I liked the look, the ride quality, and the handling of the car. The steering box was from a '70 Mustang.
The photos I just posted are my buddies, he has 4 inch drop on front and ecilptical rear springs, no Z on frame
Four link is mandatory when running a tubular front axle, unless you can keep the split wishbone pivot points near the centerline of the ch***is. "I" beam axle 'bones' can pivot off brackets located under the frame rails and gain the added benefit of some anti-roll when cornering. And why bother boxing the stock "A" frame and then have to deal with weld distortion? Why not start with 2X4 .095 wall tubing, taper the rails as per Model A (front only), create the side kink by pie cutting and welding, or pressing the kink in with a 50 ton press (you won't need all 50 ton)? You will need to fab 3 special dies to use in the press to prevent buckling of the tubing. If you are running fenderless, consider building a longer wheelbase frame (107" to 108") to avoid reducing leg room due to tunneling the firewall for engine clearance. Search other HAMB threads for ideas on X-bracing the Model A frame design. By the sounds of things, you will want to find out how to get that power (torque) to the pavement. BTW, I'm a big fan of quickchange rear axles. With 400 hp, you should be looking at a Champ style quicky, not the smaller V-8.
That was the set up I was thinking of going with almost exactly. I am just on the fence. I figure if I do something like that I can build the frame. If I go farther, z, tubular rails, I would just be better off buying a perimeter frame and going with that. I kind of liked the idea of going with the original frame. The motor I have was for a different project, but now that I picked up this coupe, it is going in here. So 400 hp or so small block and T5 is the drive train. I figure it will be a tire smoker for sure, but I want to be able to tune it in a bit...
I started my Model A project in 1977. With me being in my early 20's, a young daughter, and us choosing for my wife to be a stay-at-home mom, we were living on a tight budget. Money for non-essential things like Model A Hot Rods came very slowly. I didn't get the Model A in shape to drive until the early 80's. My choice of using the stock Model A frame was based upon two things, the reproduction frames weren't available and I couldn't have afforded one even if they had been available. The ****py old body came with an equally ****py old frame. Having more time than I had money, I made the necessary repairs to both the frame and the body. Here's a photo of the body, upon returning from having the pieces sandblasted. You may be surprised at how well your car will hookup. My car ran a 327, after market aluminum intake, 780 cfm dual line Holley, GM dual point distributor from a '57 Chevy (no provision for vacuum advance), later model large valve heads. The transmission was a stock 350 Turbo. The rearend was a 10 bolt from a '67 Nova. With 4:56 gears and an Auburn posi, the car launched really hard. The rear tires were 12.50/33's. Due to the light weight of the car, there's not much resistance to moving the car - thus it didn't generate a bunch of tire spin. I only hope that my current '34 Ford project will hookup as well as my old Model A did. Good luck on your project.
I thought that looked like a 70's car. Cool car, we forget that at some point people built hot rods because they were fast. Low weight is the easiest way to go fast. My motor is a 350 with aluminum heads and a roller cam. Should be a nice motor once its on the road. I will spray it all orange and put corvette script valve covers on it, it will look traditional to 90% of the people out there. I think the key is get a good stance and then you can change the wheel and tire combo for your looks or performance goals. Part of me wants to run a true drag slick and get it to pull the wheels on the street
I've built many Model A's over the years. The biggest problem with A frames is the twist you need to stop.After boxing ..I all-ways added 2 or more cross members to correct the twist..
Yeah, I had two round tube crossmembers in my car. Round tubing resists twisting much more than rectangular or square tubing. I never noticed any sign of twisting of my car, but the engine in my car wasn't a Mega-horsepower version.
Well I a friend of mine just found me a flathead and 3-speed out of a 51 truck. Now I don't know what to do drivetrain wise. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I feel like if I run my small block with relatively high horse power I may be better off using a new boxed frame. If I run the flat head I could just follow the book and use vern's 32 crossmember. Anyone know how the 51 trans will work? Vern's book says the 78 trans ended in 49? On a side note, I think I am sold on staying with the buggy spring in the rear, it just looks better.... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Are you asking us to help spend your money? Personally , I think you'll have a nicer car with the flathead. It will be faster, need more ch***is work and break more parts with the SBC and a heavy foot.
Honestly I'm just thinking out loud. I'm picking this thing up Sunday and it's all I've thought of since I bought it last weekend. I'll post pictures once it's in my garage I never even thought of a flathead before I came across this one. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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