Square Peg Round Hole?

Hello,


I'm super excited to start my new project and have some very ambitious plans but I want to make sure I'm starting from a good foundation before I get to deep, I have some serious concerns and I'm hoping you guys can help me answer some questions.


#1 Is my cab to rusted out?





#2 Will this cab work on this frame? My intention is to channel the cab over the frame, run a mild 350 small block with a (long tail) TH350 trans. I'm concerned the frame is to narrow for the cab, its lacking sufficient support for engine torque and drive shaft angles could be to steep with the long tail trans I have.




#3 Once channeled the steering box will have to be cowl mounted (as Iv'e seen done here on the HAMB) in order to get the clearance need for foot pedals. It looks like a tight fit but possible. Sound good?




#4 It is my preference to be able to remove the body from the frame, any suggestions as to the best way to do the mounts. The best I can come up with is to weld a bolt to the top of the frame but I question its strength.


#5 What kind of fasteners are these and where can I get a socket to remove them?




I'm itching to get this thing going and I'm grateful in advance for any help.


Thanks,
Blatz

 

The fasteners are called clutch heads... Ive started with a lot worse....

 

I live in AZ and have started with MUCH worse.

 

#1 depends on how confident you are in you ability to repair the rust. It is in pretty good shape but only you know if you can fix it or not.

#2/#4 the frame should sit about where the wood is sitting in your pictures. Most truck cabs have 4 bolts that run down through the cab floor and then through the frame. There should be two holes up front near the toe board and two in the back of the cab that the bolts went through. If the frame is too narrow for using those holes then you will have to build platforms out from the frame to run the bolts through.

#3 Almost anything is possible if you try hard enough.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

For those clutch head screws, grab an old screwdriver and reshape the head on a bench grinder to fit those pesky clutch heads. After you've removed them all, carefully place them in a container, fill it with concrete, and drop it into the nearest body of deep water. I hate those stupid clutch head screws!

 

^ or just buy some clutch head drivers at napa

your truck does not look too far gone esp if you plan on channeling it.

 

39-46 chevy truck cabs usually look like this.Yours apears to be a 41.The biggest problem with the cab is the rear above the beltline.More than likely the rot is all the way down in the double lap panel which can be fun to repair.These cabs actually have 6 mounting holes on them,4 in front and 2 to the rear of the cab i dont remember the exact measurments between the mounts if you need to know i have a bare frame in storage.

 

Never p*** up the opportunity to buy more tools!

 

What was the frame configured for, Model A maybe. What's the wheelbase, is it too short for your truck cab. It's possible to extend the side rails out to give a more substantial mounting for the cab. Also adding more crossmembers will stiffen the frame. One issue you will deal with is the tierod ahead of the front axle, very difficult to get a correct ackerman setting.

 

You can get clutch dead drivers from McMaster-Carr, and next day delivery

 

In Michigan that cab would be called "mint". That rust is really quite minor.

 

Thanks for the quick response everyone, got a set of 4 clutch drivers for $16 on the way. Rust seemed manageable and should be fun. Once I figure out the floor I'm considering dropping the top, I'll keep the back window intact and take a big chunk of rust out of the belt line below the window, then I can call it a“mint” cab from Chicago.

The frame is for a 'Model A' and I'm told it came from Speedway motors. In order for the channel to work it will exit the cab right at the top of the Z in the frame. Unfortunately, that gives verry little room between the rear tires and the cab, maybe an inch. Any Ideas what a safe distance would be between cab and tire considering suspension movement and tire expansion.

Here is a mock up of floor and steering shaft. Its gonna be tight.

 

Trial and error is the foundation you are standing on now my friend. Give it a go, find out what doesn't work, make your adjustments and then find out what else got F'd from the last change. Lol it's a journey. There are no manuals to this.
I would make a cardboard replica of your cab floor( which is pretty cherry for a project, I started with "flinstone" floors) and lay that on the frame. You will see all your cab mount locations and be able to calculate your fab work ahead of you from there.
Hope this helps.


One truck, one welder, endless possibilities!