Hey everyone just got my Christmas bonus so I'm going to make a big push to get most of the big stuff left to do on my 55 I'm running a 5.0, T-5 setup and have been back and forth between a hydraulic throw out bearing or a hydraulic slave cylinder. I've heard a lot of people running the throw out bearing but have seen some bad reviews on the throw out bearings themselves, I'm really leaning towards a hydraulic slave cylinder seems like less work to replace if something goes south with it, has anyone attempted any thing like this before I'm just concerned about making a mount for the slave and running into interference problems with exhaust and other things Thanks guys
You might want to check this out:http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/transmission-articles/481776-hydraulic-clutch-cl***ic-ford.html
I'm going with the Wilwood master and external slave on my Ford. This is my 1st time trying something like this and also read about issues with the hydraulic TO bearings.
Thanks Jeff you've been a great help to me with this and other things as well, I totally dig the reinforcement plate you made Bob looks great plus love that you used aluminum after looking at the website Jeff posted I think I have a pretty good idea I do metal fab for a living so I think I can do something I'll keep you guy's posted it I'll be a little while with holidays thanks again guys
I was going to go with 3/16" stainless, but I didn't have a big enough piece. Aluminum.. got plenty. A redesign might be coming up. I need to move the clutch master over a bit. Something to do in my spare time...
I'm still looking for a slave cylinder that has a 3/4" bore so I get the most travel out of it at the clutch fork. Does anyone have a source? I'm looking at Dorman products and have a few candidates. Most of the race car stuff are "pull" types.
Not sure of the bore but 1990's Ford Rangers used a hydraulic clutch,I had a 1994 with a 4.0 V-6 you might check out a Pick-A-Part and see if that is adaptable sometimes "Ford in a Ford" is the best fit
The slave I bought is from speedway ( it's their brand) I'm pretty sure it's a 7/8 bore it is a pull type slave read a bunch of reviews on it from speedways website and other mustang and some on the H.A.M.B as well and for the most it has gotten great reviews I also bought a wilwood clutch master cylinder to go along with it all I need to do is fab a bracket to mount the slave to the ******. The slave part# 91025604 Wilwood part# 260-6089
I saw that one too, but wanted a little more travel than the advertised 1.25". Jeff, I'll check out the Ford application you mentioned. Thanks
I bought a bracket and slave from a guy for my TKO trans and the slave he used is from a 1989 Isuzu truck, maybe other years. I asked him for the part numbers so I could do***ent for replacement in the future. Below is the part # for the one in mine. Wagner F124279 Bendix 12247 Rebestos sc37833 Tru torque cs12247 I also used this line kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LNG-28050/ and this master http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-6089/ this guy has what you need and was real helpful to me setting mine up http://dazecars.com/dazed/test.html More info http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/HYD Clutch.htm
I have only put 100ish miles on mine since I did it all and now its back to un-drivable. But yes it worked great. I believe I used a clutch fork from a late 80's early 90's mustang. Here is some of my other posts about it http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tremec-3550-into-56-fairlane.922188/#post-10416495 and here http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/hydraulic-clutch.890210/ since I had a TKO trans I bought mine from this guy. No clue if he is still around or not though http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/backdraft-racing/92150-new-slave-cylinder-bracket-bdr-spf.html
I have a T5 in mine and I converted it to a master/slave hydraulic setup. The master & slave cyls are just generic parts from a circle-track racing supply place. I used a push-type slave cyl and fabbed a bracket that bolted the slave to the trans. it took me a while to get everything bled & adjusted correctly but I've driven it a few times now and everything seems to working as it should.
Thanks again all. I think I'm on the right track. I made a new bracket to hold the brake and clutch master, stronger and like I said, I needed to move the clutch master over to get it in a better position and give it more room to get the cap off and on.
The Jalopy Journal
