My question comes about from trying to and pertaining to read an entire panel, more on a macro level. I'm on a relatively new adventure here, so if this seems elementary that's why. Having a smooth transition for your hand or eye from one spot to the next and obtaining a smooth reflection is hard enough. Now when observing the entire car I personally can't stand to see dips at the panels joints. The micro management of Leveling highs and lows is a relatively simple theory, When they are next to each other. A file shows them and you can see, hear, and feel them. My question stems from spending time leveling the highs and lows but only to find out all that fine work was done in a low spot relative to the entire panel and that will need filler any way. Micro managed for nothing. Here again on medium crowned panels, (like a door or decklid) having the crest of the crowns in the wrong place and trying to move it. Can it be moved similar in thought as moving the pillow under the sheets? Or does the existing crown need to be shrunk and a new stretched area and crown need to be created? So let's start there and see where it goes Thanks
Unlike electricty, I can totally see and understand your problem hope there is an English Wheel and hand tool fix to the problem. Bob
I know the issue your fighting. I've delt with it a few times. I've learned to put felt pin center lines on my panels so I know exactly where The crown needs to be. For me, I found the high in the wrong place needed to be shrunk back. I did this after raising the low to where I wanted it. I've also learned to use a flex rule to watch my crown as it comes along. Kind of like a strait edge for a flat surface. The Wizzard
Most of the time, when I start to get those problems (lots of work, but the whole area is low), it's a result of overworking the panel. So there's a bit of stretch involved. The easy way is to pop out the low area, and use the shrinking disc on it, if possible. Keeps your smooth work smooth, too, if you don't hammer it too hard popping it out. The second one, I just think it's easier to shrink the high crown, then create the new on where you want it. Moving it might cause stretch in adjacent areas that you don't want.
I understand the question because I have made the mistake of while concentrating on the most obvious high/lows I didn't consider the high/low repair area's POSITION (high/low wise) in the CONTOUR of the ENTIRE PANEL. . It can be fixed. Once the problem of a high/low area out of contour with the panel is noticed you will now have to raise or lower the area to contour. Use metal finishing techniques to accomplish this.
Profile gauges work wonders in this area also. As to know where to shrink or where to stretch. It's very easy to get the overall profile tweaked out of shape if not concentrating on the entire work surface and checking once in a while to make sure the overall panel is keeping it's original profile shape.
Dura block makes a block thats 2&1/2 feet or so. On large bare metal panels I use guide coat and 120 grit on the long block. I keep several 18 ga steel strips 1&1/2" wide. various lengths to lay out and check surface level, and crowns & a 6 foot 1/4" x 3/4 aluminum strip I can check large and multiple panels with. Then there is always wetting the panel with wax and grease remover and sighting in all directions.
I noticed that on my 40 between the cowl , door skin , and rear quarter. There is no sign any of those have been worked or needed work, so I'm not taking the little "dips" out. I don't criticize those who do; it's not me. I am trying a shrinking disk on the unnaturally lumpy stuff I have patched. It's slow going and hasn't passed inspection yet.
As mentioned above - work on the 'big picture' first, using sweeps or profile gauges (or even a long strip of sheet metal or strip of wood) to ensure that the flow is right down the full length, then focus in tighter, panel by panel (or part of panel) always remembering to check back on overall flow regularly. Working only on individual panels off the car can lead to 'quilting'.. This may mean a lot of back and forth mounting panels/doors etc to check, but still better than having to take out shape or trying to move highs and lows around. When it does happen it may be easier (as suggested)on low crown panels to shrink highs and raise lows rather than trying to push them around the panel which could have effects elsewhere in the panel. Higher crown is going to be more tolerant of 'pushing' shape around the panel
I've never had good luck at moving a high spot from one location to another more than a few inches. If it's over four inches away, you will probably create more problems than you fix (like chopolds says). Reduce the crown in the one area, create crown in the other. But, as you have found out, you need to step back and find the major problems first. Bolt them all together and see the shape, before you go fixing the warts. Sometimes the warts will not be there by the time you are done "toning" your body.
The Jalopy Journal
