I found an add for a muncie gearbox, fair priced. He pulled it out of a 1983 c30 truck. According to wikipedia its a good box. But I trust the HAMB more then Wiki! I'm gonna put it behind a hopped up Perkins 6.354 Diesel, and since it came out of a 6.2 Diesel V8, the clutch and box should be adequit? Are the sm465 ready to hook to a PTO? Are they all with a tall shifter? For a convensional cab. What size of rear tires does a C30 run? And rear diff ratio? Does it run flange or yoke for the prop shaft? I know this sound OT, with a Diesel and a truck box, but its going in to my 1955 Bedford Truck shop truck/car hauler. Bedford is the ugly redheaded stepbrother to the AD-Series truck. This is a rare gearbox, over here, and I can't find much that is specific for the 1983 C30 and a manuel is even more rare.
The gear ratio spread is very wide, especially from 2 to 3, it's over 2:1 ratio jump. The rear gear ratio in those trucks was either 4.10 or 4.56 with about a 31" tall tire,. The speed limit in the US at the time was 55 mph, also. High gear in the transmission is 1:1 The driveshaft yoke is 1350 Ujoint. There is a PTO cover on the side of the transmission, you'd need to find the power take off gearbox to put on it to get your PTO to work. The transmission was used for over 20 years, they are pretty common over here. from wikipedia First Gear - 6.55:1 Second Gear - 3.58:1 Third Gear - 1.70:1 Fourth Gear - 1.00:1 Reverse - 6.09:1
My gear box is from 55, that means crashbox/un-syncroed w/ granny first. First. 7.06:1 Second. 3.30:1 Third. 1.71:1 Top. 1:1 Reverse. 7.06:1 So thats in the ballpark, and full syncro? And I'm pulling an anemic 214 six gas job 90 hp, with a narrow powerband, instaling a 354 six Diesel, with a reworded pump, and gestimated 130hp and a shitload of torque compared to the Bedford. We can run 55 in trucks, out side of towns and 66 on the highway/freeway Im running 7.25x 20, but wants Bigger., dont know how tall that is, but I want to run bigger for lower RPM. .
My manual states: 5.86 or 6.8. But havnt tested it jet. I really appriciate it squirrel, you are the first to answer my semi-lame question! You was the first to answer my FI deleting treath, and it was some sound advice. You know alot, and it is nice that you wants to share!!
That aint easy around here. Its a long time gone, that trucks was this small. And the newer ones that is that is 5 tons is flimsy and weak. :-(
What does that mean and can one swap the non-flange-connection to a Flange? And can most US rear end flanges and non-flange-connection be swapped to match transmission? I've found a Chevy 1954 stepside rearend, and want to use another type of connection/flange. It's for a different project.
The SM465 came with two different input shafts. One has the normal 10 spline and small pilot as was found in light duty trucks, while heavy duty versions have the larger 1 inch pilot that is common in 1 1/2 ton and larger trucks. The first gear in these units is un-synchronized. There were two different tops that were available. The common cast iron top, and an aluminum version that was found in 1988-1992 C and K series trucks. The aluminum top has a shifter location that at the far back edge of the top casting. One of the most common problems with the 465 is 3rd gear jump out aftermarket gear sets have a back cut synchro tooth that helps alleviate this problem.
May consider checking NV4500 trans. Similar in size with 5th gear overdrive. May address your rear ratio/ tire size better. They are pricey though.
Most US rearends do not have a flange, they have a yoke, which the U joint fits into directly, held in with U bolts and nuts, or straps and bolts. If you want to add a flange, you have to find a flange and U joint that will fit that size yoke. The 1350 series Spicer Ujoint is a common size on pickup trucks, usually used on 3/4 and 1 ton trucks, but also on some 1/2 tons. And it's commonly used in higher performance aftermarket driveshafts, I have that size U joint in my Chevy II drag car.
Not to be disrespectful, but the are more rear then Hens tearh over here. And expencive to boot. So I dont think thats gonna happen. No with budget I got.
This is new territorie to me. We run them almost all non-us build cars with a flange. Ive don a few joint exchanges, in my time. But does it mean that when you remove the u bolts or straps, the cap that holds the bearing on to x-part, is free to fall off? On a European joint, one removed both the two clips that hold the caps in, and then they are tight against the needles, Press fit, and is only held in place by the clips and the hole. Does it make sence? I just fail to see how its done on your side. So I have to do some machinework, welding and remachine to make it to a flange fit. Does you run a propshaft with out a middel bearing to hold it centeret? We run them mostly with the bearing and the slip joint in the middle. That leave the front half of the propshaft, totally fixed, and the rear part moveing up/down with the rear axle. Where do you put the slipjoint, fore or aft?
Here are a few pictures. The driveshaft that is installed in the truck, is the 1980 C20 with the SM465 transmission. It has a spline in the center of the two piece shaft, and a center carrier bearing to support it. The loose transmission is an SM420 from a 1955 Chevy 1 ton, which has a prop shaft parking brake, and a flange on the end of the driveshaft. The loose single piece driveshaft is from a 1/2 ton 56 Chevy with a one piece driveshaft, with no transmission parking brake, and an SM420 transmission. It does not use a flange, and has a slip yoke which is at the front end of the driveshaft.
Is it possible to find a propshaft to gearbox adapter? Just from the spline count and axel diameter? I know my outgoing shaft on the M40 is the same as the splines on a Willys jeep transmissions. Still dont know what the M400 yet.
I'm not sure what you are asking for. Maybe this? or something else? http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c161_flange_yokes.html .
those adapters look like what i think he's talking about. a driveshaft cannot be mounted fix/solid needs a slip joint somewhere in a two piece after the hanger bearing
I like the photos you posted, a big help! The second from last is what we usualy sees over here. When the cup and the needles is over the cross, there only thing holding em in place is grease, surface tension. When you mount the flange part, it locks them in place. Does that makes sence? The question was, removeing the ubolts result in a) propshaft drops or B) prop drops, and cups and needles fall to the ground? And can you order like this And give a numbers of spline and the diameter og the outgoing shaft, from my gearbox, and bam, I got the same joint in both end of my prop shaft?
You can order splined transmission yokes, like in your picture, for many applications. When you remove the straps or U bolts that hold the U joint into the yoke, the driveshaft comes out, and the caps usually stay on the U joint. They sometimes can fall off, but if you are a little bit careful, they will stay in place. It's not a big problem.
You are right, its either a yoke for my gearbox, or an adapter that fits an US-styled propshaft to my Euro-styled flange. So its great advice. I know that you need the slip joint, and I know why. But I can't se what is the advantage of a middle bearing, and I lean towards a One-Piece-Prop with slip joint, so it looks more OEM fit/stock apperiance in place of my 1929-projects torque tube.
The two piece prop shaft was usually used on long wheelbase vehicles, and a single piece used on short wheelbase vehicles. Some exceptions are for cars with a small driveshaft tunnel, such as the old Volvo 544, and some cases like older Buicks that had the floor lowered so that they had more leg room, and the two piece shaft lets the floor tunnel be smaller. The 58-64 Chevy cars had an X frame with a center tunnel that required a two piece driveshaft.
Applications, does that mean I give them my gearbox type, or messurenents like I talked about before. And where do I get them? Transmission shops? Summit? Speedway?
Probably the gearbox type would be better, since most of the listings are by application, not by size.
Not very likely. There might be size data available in a Spicer catalog somewhere, but I don't know where to look.
you'll probably go by dia. and spline count. is there a shop that builds driveshafts and or balances them in your area, they usually have charts with cross reference you could always check with the off-roaders who they use for their jeeps and buggies
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