Hot Rods my first hot rod...according to "H.A.M.B"......'30 ford coupe

Reversed firewall...36 dash...great minds think alike.

I am putting a 36 dash into my '30. I managed to track down a guy that has a shelf of NOS '36 ashtrays. PM me if you need his contact info...they can go for silly money on eBay but he sells for $50 each. Hope it helps.

 

Your car is looking good. Nice work! Going to be a cool hot rod.

 

Nicely none I had the same front end configuration on a 1930 coupe project except my front spring utilized a sleeve thru the spit '40 bones & a threaded shackle housing so I could keep the front spring from binding. I also like the 3 1/2" stretch on the front of the frame I did a stretch on the rear with a high arch A spring behind the axle (Bronco 9") You are doing a great job looking to see the finished project. I sold the '30 coupe Project to finish the '40 coupe

 

thanks man.....I checked out your build thread, awesome...I got some good ideas about my master cylinder set-up from your build.......

thanks mad m...........for me thats what its all about, a cool and safe hot rod

thanks man.......so far so good....its a real help to have all the information of other hot rodders builds and solutions to their build problems so readily available on the HAMB, with just a "search"..........

 

welded some bolts into the model a dash rail so when I weld the dash to it I can remove the dash easily from the car..... still have more work to do on the dash, so far so good........

 

finished up the dash and got her installed. Had trouble with one of my ''35-'36" dash speedo's. One fit the dash studs but the speedo dial was off......so I figure it's not a '35-'36.......the other fit and the dial face was in the correct position....luxury problems......

 

You're doing an awesome job man. I can tell there is some hard work in there!

 

thanks man.......I'm enjoying the hell out of it.

 

Your doing nice work. I am liking what I see so far with the exception of the front axle. A 28 to 36 axle will give you a little more turning clearance. You will also need a narrower spring. I'd finish up the way you are going. If turning radius is a problem once you are on the road you can change it out.

 

thanks man...........one of the reasons I like the HAMB so much is the great information and suggestions to improve your build other members give you free of charge. I do have a couple of 28-36 axles and if need be I'll switch them out if I have turning issues.

 

well, got the steering column and box mocked in. Going to mount the box on top of the rail. Still working out how to do it. So far took 2" from the column to make it work. Dug out the original model a coupe seat.

 

Here's what we came up with.....simple, looks good and structurally sound. 2 x 4 steel cut and formed. Steering box is bolted to each 2 x 4 and the frame. Just mocked in,need some tweaking then put the coal to her. We made it so the box can be remove to service or changed it if need be.

 

steering box mounts welded in,box bolted in place, extended the steering arm 2'' so its in line with the pitman arm........still need to do some grinding on the arm.......

 

well, I worked on the rear, got the 3 rd member, backing plates,shoes,axles,and drums in place.
Also fabricated some brackets for the brake pedal assembly and the master cylinder. Using parts from a 48-51 f-1 brake pedal assembly and a chevy truck 68-72 master cylinder for shoe/ shoe application. The master is going to be located approximately 20ish inches behind the brake pedal assembly,no room behind the pedal. Still figuring that out. Also figuring out the brake pedal arm , going to heat and bend or cut and weld...not sure yet.

 

Great job, you got the stance nailed

 

thanks man.......I appreciate your comment because I put a lot of effort into having "that right stance"......
well, we worked on the mechanics of the braking system today.here's our combined results. I reworked the brake pedal and modified the pedal pin. The reworked brake pedal arm is not a work of art but it works. My buddy bent the push rod stock rod, attached the ends and it works perfectly.Here are the almost finished results

 

cut 3 : 1/2'' out of a f-1 tie rod to make it fit my application.......also mocking up a modified f-1 drag link....

 

got the steering arm ball fitted and welded in, also the modified drag link is welded up and installed, rear window was trimmed and fitted ,then tack welded. Working on my deck lid to see if I can make it look half way decent so I can save $300-600 bucks and spend that money on other needed build parts. Lastly mocked in my pete & jakes pan hard bar. Their stuff fits so good. Also ordered my driveshaft style headers from gear_drive@yahoo.com. Matt is an alliance vendor, so I got free shipping on them....the benefits of being an alliance member.

 

What ever pieces end up forming your deck lid, weld them together (or crimp, or join)
After you've got the shape to match both rear quarter's top beads, as an assembly.
Looking good!

 

thanks pitman.........I'm thrilled with the way she's turning out. Always wanted one of these........will do the best I can on the deck lid. Thanks for the tips.

 

Looks like you are off to a great start on your new A,
I have one of those Vertigate shifters in my A you will love it downshifting is a little challenging tho...

 

..thanks 60 Belair........... nice tudor,......I've changed direction and now instead of a v shifter,.... I'm keeping it simple with a 2 speed powerglide........

 

well, I got my headers and alternator installed.......I hammer filled, hammer and dollied , used a shrinking disc added new metal patched holes on my deck lid but still not happy with it for a bare metal lid. I looked around and found a HAMBer who had one for sale. Last pic shows the header baffles and my finished driveshaft.

 

working on patch panels........also my buddy and I figured out the body mounts. Angle iron and a thick rubber mat solved that issue.

 

I decided to go with my '30-'31 ford grille with the stone guard. It seems like the majority of '30 coupes are running '32 grilles. I've also decided not to run my "little" mustang radiator. I can't see how that could cool my 350 motor in bumper to bumper traffic.
I figured out where the roof wood header goes and the other pieces of the front of the roof.
I also built a "cage", bolted to the sub-rails and to the bottom of the rear window. That really tightened the old girl up. She still has a little ass wiggle which I fix next. Don't get me wrong I like a little ass wiggle ,just not on my hot rod.
My buddy started to wire the old girl up yesterday, rebel 8 circuit kit.
After adding a spacer to my trans mount to get top of the motor level, I now need to notch out the frame rail to make room for the alternator lower bracket........

 

Little late to the party but it looks like your making some good progress,I really like the dash! HRP

 

thanks HRP, I really appreciate the compliment. My goal is to have her drivable and registered by this April........

 

Looks like you are really moving along there! Makes me feel lazy ... Or motivated. I have a question about you steering set up. Not sure from the photos but is there room for you to flip the steering arm on the front spindle to allow you to run a straight link to the steering box? Might give you a shallower angle closer to intersecting with the pivot for the wishbone. Maybe not.
Either way, cool project. Keep it up


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That draglink has some serious angle. Seems like I read somewhere that it should be parallel to the ground to avoid bumpsteer. Maybe someone can chime in and straighten me out.

 

I'm retired so I can devote everyday into building hot rods....who's got it better than me. I'll check into the drag link situation and get back to you. Thanks for pointing it out.

this is why I like the HAMB, fellow HAMBer's see potential problems and state their concerns....thanks man