Good morning. I've been helping an older gent restore his cars for almost 30yrs and the latest project was to make a worthy 52 Chevy convertible from 3. Well, after dealing with electrical looms and ****py interstate 6v batteries, we finally got her to fire/run. Well it's been kinda cold and I only work with him once a week. And after the new year, got back to working on it drilling out busted/rusted exhaust studs. He stated that he pulled the manifolds off himself so I didn't think anything of little puddles under the front of the car. WELL.. I took a closer look and found a nice 8-10" long crack just above the pan-rail of the block. Needless to say, he wasn't too happy to be told that even if we got the 60+yr old manifolds tapped out with studs. I couldn't really help since my only 250 6cyl is already sold, I thought of maybe a marine I-6 and if one could help. So, that's what I need to know. If a Chevy marine style boat motor would/could swap in a 52 Chevy without any issues? Thanks E
Why try to find a rather scarce Chevy marine engine when a regular automotive '49 to '58 ('62?) is almost a drop in and very easy to find?
Don't understand, Exhaust studs are in the head. So you may as well drill them out and save the head. 250 Chevy is not the same motor as came in the 52. Can be made to fit, but so can many other engines. Other than that, the marine style block can be made to work.
If it is just in the skirt of the block, you may be able to just pin it with the threaded pins. It seems to work fairly well as a cast Iron repair. I would avoid a marine engine, as there is usually more corrosion on them. If you find one that had a heat exchanger instead of raw water cooling, then you might have better luck. Otherwise it should work fine.
Dave. Its' just the opposite here with the availability of 215/235's vs the boat blocks. (I have a buddy that had/has over 28 inboards of various makes that is stripping them out to sell the property and has several laying around. Rich, The exhaust studs were/are in the bottom of the collector. NOT in the head. I'll try and get some pics, but I think the cost comparison of pulling this one apart, welding/repairing re-***embling and re-installing outweigh the purchasing, tear down, re-ring yadda yadda THEN ending up with a more powerful engine. It's just that I NEED to know if it all bolts up or even if I can re-use the 235 head on a 250 to save a little cost..?
have to make sure the motor is a normal rotation engine as some marine engines are reverse rotation ( cam and timing gears are ussually changed out . but the blocks are cast on the same line . and some mercruiser/ OMC blocks used a different alloy ( same as the H.D/industrial . block alloy with more tin/ nickel ) and it keeps the water p***age corrosion down .
I have seen a seriously broken block repaired with Bondo. It held everyday all summer, and the next fall they put anti freeze in it and it still held.
If it's a boat that was used in salt water make sure you inspect the block very carefully. The salt water will eat the cast iron from the inside out. No car engine rebuilder in my area will touch a boat block.
The 52 came with either a 216 or 235 (standard shift or Powerglide). This engine is COMPLETELY different from a 250. The 250 will NOT bolt in place of a 235. The 235 head will NOT fit a 250 block.
I have seen many 216 blocks that split at the pan rail. You can pin repair them or just clean the area of any dirt/residue and run a thick bead of JB Weld over the crack and let it cure. Believe it or not but it works.
They may be available in your area, but I've NEVER seen a 235/216 (40s-62 chevy) 6marine engine. And, as others stated, the later 230/250/292 design shares nothing with the older design. If the car has an original style engine, I'd look for an engine from 53 powerglide care or 54 any trans. 55-62 will work,. but need some water pump and pulley mods to get the fan high enough for the tall radiator.
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