Well I can finally post in this forum, traded my 53 chevy 4 door for this, in my opinion, nice a chassis. The motor is supposed to run, going to give it a shot tomorrow. Nice solid frame and the mechanical brake stuff moves freely and the trans goes into a all gears. It was rebuilt recently. The frame shows to be April of 29. Can't tell if it was a coupe or what no motor numbers so not sure exactly what it is. Plans are pretty simple. Banger coupe in the late 40's style. Dropped okie joe axle, leaves pulled from rear spring, mechanical brakes. Black steel wheels and black wall bias plys. 5 inch chop no channel. I have a 32 grill shell but I'm not sure I'll use it. Banger speed parts as I can afford them. Any and all guidance is greatly appreciated
Welcome to the wonderful world of Model A's! Looks like you've got a great start-clean as a pin.If it's your first A and you're basically going stock (drivetrain and brakes), there's a couple of books by Les Anderson ( one's green and one's red- I lent mine out so don't know the publisher) you can get from Mac's and probably Snyder's that are excellent.Pricey but worth the money(30-35 each). Tons of Model A guys on here so plenty of backup! Pictures are a must as you progress.Good luck, and have fun. Mike
Thanks Mike. Hey what wheels will fit on these axles. it seems like I've heard something about running a spacer ring to make the drum flush for steel wheels?
It is a definite yes on the spacer. This post will show the problem but it is really slanted to wire wheels on hydraulic drums (which need a different spacer), http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/40-ford-wheels-on-a-model-a.750368/#post-8330045 I have heard they you may be able to grind down the ridge or raised areas but others have said that you cannot. My solution would be to go to hydraulic brakes. Charlie Stephens
Just my $ .02 on the spacer issue. Personal experience with wires on hydraulic drums. I've run 4 different sets of wires, 16 inch and 17 inch on my A for probably 40,000 miles and 10 years. Never used a spacer, never had a problem. Problems with cracking happen more from running hard or "racing". You gotta remember that for the most part, These cars we run today don't get run anywhere near as hard as they did back in the day. That's where the spacer was born. It doesn't hurt to run them. They are not expensive. Some of us still just like livin' on the edge!
Model A's are great, have three at the moment. Sold the avatar years ago. It was fathead powered, building another fathead powered 30 Sport Coupe. Stock 29 coupe and a 30 pickup with inserted bagger motor. One thing to remember is that with a stock drive train they are 50 - 55 mph car. I use my pickup as a daily driver but mostly in town. Nothing in the serial number tells the body style. The serial number is stamped on a pad above the radiator hose on the left side of the motor and on the left side of the frame behind the front body mount bolt hole.
Thanks guys, I found the serial number on the frame. It's gone on the motor, or its a replacement that didn't get stamped. If I'm reading the number right it's an April 29 car. a139XXXX
Thanks. As far as it being a 50-55 mph car. At first that's fine. I just want to get the stance right and get it running and driving. Then I'll start on the hop up parts and more speed. I'm going to have this car for a long time. I've been dreaming about it for a decade. So there's plenty of time for changes. I already have a 50 merc flat head when I decide to go that route. It's main use will be after I get home from work for whatever errands I have to do and weekends. I do plan to drive the snot out of it though. Just not much on the highway at first.
Thanks guys. I asked this in the banger thread but is there any reason it would be dumb to stay 6 volt. I'll be going all new cloth wiring and no accessories. Ign, head and tail lights and blinkers will be the only electrics.
Again My $02. It worked for 85 years, It can still work. Unless you are anal, stay with 6 volts, It's more "period correct!" PS. I'll get good pix of the steering column tomorrow. I just finished my day!
What makes you say that the starter is 12 volts? I am not trying to argue or disagree just trying to learn what to look for. Charlie Stephens
I use to own the Chassis about a year ago. Came off of a 390 or 460 can't remember been a while... Model A starters have a push button box on top that bolts to the starter housing.
I never looked at the starter, just assumed! I'm dying to hear the answer on that starter! Also, just for some more fun, I've been starting my flathead for 11 years with 12 volts on a 6 volt Ford starter! No problem at all!
Starter off a 390, 352 or 460 and the shaft diameter was the same as model a just changed the bendix drive. My Uncle did the conversion and has since passed. Tony I have used 12 volts on my 6 volt starts also with no issues...
Kyle got it from the guy I sold it to ???? The engine ran but needed rings. I would drop the pan that oil has been in there for 25+ years. That frame is pretty straight and you could read the number on it. If you need any parts let me know. I got a few and could help you out. Glad to see it went to a guy on the HAMB.
That green Banger coup is way cool! I learned something about starters! HAMB never lets you down! thanks chudm71!
You need to find a Gleaner Baldwin pull type combine . They had model A engines that have a magneto for spark . Look for a pull type combine with galvanized sheet metal all other manufactures were painted.
Ok cool. I'll look around. There's a farmer just down from us that has a ton of old stuff like that. A magneto would be way cool. Thanks
The Jalopy Journal
