Technical 1940 Ford stock clutch pedal

I'm renovating a '40 Ford coupe that came with a SBC and a 700R4 combo. It's now running a dropped CE axle with split bones, F100 front drums and a 9"out back on CE parallel springs and 4.11 gears.

I redid the brake and clutch pedals back to original with a mind to putting a hand-grinder in the car. I've put together an LT1 T56 6 speed with the LS1 input shaft, an adaptor plate to go to a stock Chevy bell housing, and a normal small flywheel and clutch set-up. I moved the throwout arm to the passenger side to be activated by a slave cylinder to avoid the brake pedal to drivers side throwout arm interference problem.

After repairing the clearance cuts made to the x-member for the 700R4 I shoehorned the sbc/T56 in place and made up a new tunnel for it. The engine/trans is back out on the floor and I'm working out the clutch pedal and clutch master cylinder combination.

It looks to me like the amount of travel afforded by the really short stock clutch release lever ratio may not not even uncover the fluid port in the Wilwood master. I can add about an inch and a half to the lever to increase the throw into the master cylinder. The Wilwood master will be mounted forward of the pedal as if the rod were pushing on a Ford cross shaft.

I searched the tech section and didn't find anything on this particular issue. Has anyone else used the stock pedal or modified it to operate a hydraulic clutch?

Thanks,

Charlie

 

bttt

 

i tried a similar approach with my 1939 Ford deluxe coupe with a Ford 302 and a toploader. i didn't think I could make it work the way it should by welding a longer clutch arm to increase the travel on the master clutch cylinder. I bought a Speedway hanging clutch and brake setup. It works fine, and gets the master cylinder up above the wheel cylinders so I did not have to use those inline brake residual pressure valves.

 

CC1940...saw a post on the hamb that you do louvres. I need to reskin a '31 deck lid. I have a new skin and would like to get it punched. My email is laug@centurytel.net.

 

Not sure exactly what you have; but if you have a stock type chev bell, why not use the throw out arm from an early '60s pick-up, stock Chev slave, and another early Ford master with the residual valve removed. Probably better with proven stock type parts that work together than making the Wilwood stuff work..

 

Saw a reference to you regarding louvres... please contact me at laug@centurytel.net