Customs Brakes went out, now no parking gear

So last night on my way to work in my 54' Chevy Belair my brakes went out. The brake lights were stuck on the night before and I couldn't figure out why so I unhooked my battery. Now, I'm thinking it was a warning that my brake fluid was low/empty. So driving to work and the brakes went completely out. Pedal to the floor. Luckily I didn't run into someone or something, but in order to get it to stop and avoid hitting anything and everything in my way I had to throw it into park at about 10mph. Put brake fluid in it and it seems to be ok now. But when I put it into park it rolls and makes a clicking sound. Every other gear works properly. It is the power glide transmission. Any idea what I did to make the park gear not catch now? Park pawl/pin broken? If so, where do I start to fix this? Any and all help is appreciated!

 

Where did the brake fluid go? I would fix the emergency brake first.

 

If I am not mistaken, there is what is called a pawl or pin which is caught and locks the car in park. When you put the car in park while it was moving you broke the pin or latching mechanism.
You still have a problem, where did the brake fluid go in the first place?
You have something leaking in the brake system!
Don't drive the car until you find and repair the leak.
KK

 

I'm not sure where the brake fluid went. We are definately fixing that first and then the E brake. Just wanted to know if anyone knew about the park issue. Thanks for the info!

 

Do you have to pull the whole ****** out and apart to get to the pawl or latching mechanism?

 

Turbo 350? I think you can do it with the pan off. Had that problem once but it was over thirty years ago.

 

Not sure? It's the original 235 inline6 powerglide.

 

You have broken the parking pawl mechanism. I had a 727 trans that someone backed into the truck while parked - it broke the case when the pawl went through it. You may need a new case, as well as some internal parts. Yes, the whole MUST come out and be torn down for inspection.

Too, your brake system does not HAVE a warning for fluid low, it was built in an age where you were supposed to be smarter than the equipment you are operating.

Your brakes lights (if stock) are operated by a hydraulic switch, actuated by pressure. If the lights were on, and the car rolls OK, you have a wiring problem.

Cosmo, saying about 10% of what he wants to say on this one...

 

Thank you for all of your help.

 

You will have to take trany out and dis***emble to get to the park paw.

 

2 Speed Powerglides are usually sold cheaper than what it costs to fix one. I can't recall the specifics but there is a difference between the M/C in auto and standard cars.

 

No luck finding a transmission for now. Now looking for a replacement parking pawl. No luck so far finding that either. I did however find the whole transmission rebuild kit for $310. If anyone knows where to find a pawl that would be great help. Thanks guys!

 

Do you have it apart yet?

 

Get the brakes and parking brake fixed first and you should be able to get by without the park pawl for awhile.

 

back in the early sixties my moms 51 chevy powerslide parking pawl was broken and stayed broken for the five years we had it.

 

look at the bright side. A parking pawl or even a trans is cheaper than wadding up all the front sheet metal.

 

Honestly---You can live without the Pawl. The Chevy brakes are pretty functional when they are properly rebuilt and adjusted. Provided you don't get them too wet, or over heated (brake fade), the parking brake or emergency brake is a rear wheel parking ***ist and a last resort rear wheel EMERGENCY lock up brake. ----As ALL of us has done at one time or other---- we've relyed on the what was there and felt it was good enough. My lesson was learned on our 57 Chevy wagon. Cool ***ed car. Put in a 305 with a 350 trans. really liked it, kids loved it and the wife even liked driving it even with no power steering. SHE was the one driving it when the brake pedal hit the floor. (the emergency brake was so out of adjustment it was useless). She had the sense to down shift down to low and scrubbed the curb and not hit any thing. At THAT point I HAD the sense buy a complete kit for an upgrade to a modern (dual port) power master cylinder and booster, and GM 11in discs for the front . Pretty easy to do (remember the 57 has a hanging firewall mounted pedal.) I also checked, REALLY checked, all the brake lines , redid the rear brakes and properly adjusted the emergency brakes. A lesson learned. We kept the car 3 more years and never had any problems, nor did the folks who bought it from us. Think about it. BILL RINALDI

 

You can always rob Peter to pay Pawl... had to say that. Put a wanted ad in the cl***ifieds here for early PG parts.

 

The parking Pawl and pin are very sturdy parts I doubt you broke one. It is far more likely that you broke the case where it mounts. I rebuild Ford transmissions not Powerglides, so I could be wrong but most transmissions are fairly similar inside. I don't understand not being able to find a transmission, that should be very simple to do, any transmission shop should have one. They should be one of the cheapest transmissions to get. A rebuild kit will not have any of the parts you need and $310 is an outrageous price!!!!! Basic rebuild kits should be around $60 and complete kits under $150. All the kits contain is gaskets, O-rings, that type of stuff. A complete kit would add in the clutch plates and disk. If the case is broken a repair is not possible, I would look for an exchange. Any transmission parts supply house will have the parking pawl parts, but do you know how to install them if that was all that was needed? I attached a rebuild kit I looked up (with clutches) $79.

 

On your brake system I would suspect that you are losing the brake fluid through the brake light switch. I have seen this many times once the brake fluid gets past the seal it shorts across the contacts and then leaks out the top. I like to use external mechanical switches for this reason. Also check every inch of your brake line for rust. All it takes is a little rust pit to turn into a pin hole that shoots fluid at 900+ psi and bye-bye brakes. I have had it happen twice.I would also suggest a thorough rebuild of the entire brake system.

Jim Ford

 

^^^^^^ good advice here!

 

I had a 62 buick electra when she wouldn't stay in park.I just made sure the e. Brake was in good shape when I always put her in park.Please go all over and check your all of your brake system.Bruce.

 

This doesn't apply here but, I always try to explain to new drivers (and ex-girlfriends) to set the parking brake and have it hold the car before placing the car in park position. Good luck, Jenn, it's only a minor set-back. Just think how much worse it could have been.

 

Brake light switch is not anywhere near the mc. Two problems, causation is not correlation and vice versa.
Take this opportunity to really fix things.
First, lever arm brake light switch is mounted to floor board, engine side NOT inside or under the car.
Start replacing lines. I had the rear brake line come loose at the union. I went with a newer brake line with 1 pc tee, built in to line.
Manual master cylinders have an extra mount for the clutch pedal

 

You can buy a kit to use a dual chamber master in the stock location. I believe ECI sold one as did a guy in the PNW. I made my own from 1/8 steel plate.

 

give Rusty a call at Northwest Transmission in Ohio. He can help you

13500 U.S. 62, Winchester, OH 45697
(937) 442-2811

 

Thanks to all of you! We are going over the brake system and putting all new brake lines and anything else that needs to be replaced this weekend and fixing/adjusting the E brake. I'll let you guys where the leak is coming from and how it goes. It has been a week now and the master cylinder is still full to the top with brake fluid. I haven't driven it anywhere so not sure if it only leaks then or not?

 

If it's the original motor and transmission it will be a cast iron powerglide that doesn't have a pan on the bottom. Can't remember offhand how you get to the park pawl.

 

You will have to remove the bell housing to back to the park mech.

 

Ok so thank god I didn't break the pawl! The linkage just needed to be adjusted. Now park works again! as for the leak, there is no visible one. So my mechanic said he thinks the master cylinder is leaking within itself. Brake lines looked good. Got the emergency brake cables adjusted as well. Thanks for everyone's help!