These are Missile - they are oilers unlike ***ans - made by Steve Lanius at Missile Enterprises - Hot Heads may be the only place that sells them.
They look serious enough, very nice. earlier you mentioned a Stenke, I seem to remember a Roger(?) and his son but for some reason I relate them to Pontiac, like a AA fueler running a Pontiac engine, RamAir 5 maybe? Or is my memory totally wonky, very likely. I'll have to check your build out.
Yeah Roger Stanke ! http://stankemotorsports.com/ Very nice guy. I called and talked to him several times about the rocker geometry and stuff. He sells some billet aluminum main caps for hemi's . I might investigate those if the crank falls out of this current engine. One thing I have learned - call people on the phone and have a note pad ready - you'd be amazed and the knowledge that will come out. I think sometimes we get too hung up on Googling everything.
Just some observations. It is highly unlikely that you are going to get perfect rocker geometry with anyone's over the counter, full shaft mounted rocker gear. I don't care what they tell you. Most are a compromise, at best. And before you use aluminum main caps on a street engine, do your homework. It is not what they are designed for. A good set of steel caps with a line hone, and maybe a girdle is all most of these engines will ever need.
i use manton push rods. they offer a great setup to mock up push rods. i use the lifters hot heads sells. most of the parts made for the old hemis is based on 100 long valves. so stay with this and parts should fit as intended.
Spend some time talking to folks like Hot-Heads and also the experienced cam grinders. You'll need to decide if you're going to a roller cam - hydraulic or mechanical as well. I love the guys over at Bullet cams (John Partridge) - he'll make a cam specifically for your engine combination and he'll spec exactly what spring pressure you need on the seat and open. The single best/funnest thing you can do to an early hemi is put a blower on it - will probably cost less than getting into wild stroker cranks, $2500 rocker arm setups, etc . . . will make a lot of power with a reasonable lift cam and rebuilt stock rockers. Also, as TR noted -- somebody needs to really setup the heads correctly, get the geometry right, know the spring pressures needed and make sure everything works together. If you're that guy, cool . . . but it is one of the areas where a lot of folks hose themselves on early Chrysler Hemis, Arduns, etc..
Had the engine/project in 'mothballs' while I went LSR racing at Bonneville, Ohio Mile, etc.. I've dug it back out, re-did the heads for a roller cam and am now just getting started on the car once again. It has been on the back burner for 5 years! You'll be seeing come posts again in the coming months . . .
I was asking about the beehive valve springs because they are suppose to require less spring tension over dual springs I don't plan on running a cam bigger than 500 lift. would like to run 6500 max. looked at .100 longer SBC valves because they are the same length as a stock Hemi. and they are about half price, so are the keepers and retainers, plus you could run the behive springs. Willys replacement parts sells stroker cranks for the hemi wondered if any one has used them
one thing to consider with the bee hives. they have been around a while now so if they were the hot set up every one would be using them. word of a good product travels fast. i personally dont know of any one using them you must not either. that should tell you something. kind of reminds me of the rhoades lifters when they came out. lots of hype
^^^ This is good advice. I think I saw mention of .5 lift cam, doesn't take much of a spring to control that lift. I don't think that the gain would be worth the risk on an unproven part like a beehive spring.
Bob, I asked my head ported about using beehives. Solid roller engine with aluminum heads. He said that in my case, I could not get a beehive with correct spring pressure both on and off the seat. As stated above, I would not venture there. I have used aftermarket valves in smaller hemis. It wasn't a matter of cost savings as it was a matter of availability. You need to figure in the price of reducing the guide size also. Retainers and keepers will all be within cents of each other. A welded up stroker crank is pretty much a thing of the past. If you thing you need a "stroker", the most economical way is to offset grind to a smaller rod journal size, and use an aftermarket rod. The alternative is a custom billet crank.
isn't a 392 crank in a 354 block a stroked engine if it increases the cubes by 38. i personally use a 392 billet cut down but I'm sure a stock crank would be plenty strong. this is by far the most bang for the buck. the idea behind using the longer valve is to provide more room under the retainer to fit the correct spring without cutting the head. it also increases your spring options. the draw back is you need to change the stands to correct the geometry. if you don't change the stands the rocker will run on the edge of the valve tearing up guides. ask me how i know. used ***anium valves are out there but will require lash caps due to the softer material.
Reminder: The spring pockets are considered to be a thin spot & cutting is not the thing to do, widening for wider springs is ok.
Anything that changes the length is considered to be a stroker, offset grinding, different crank with a different stroke, welding up the journal and regrinding (which in essence is offset grinding). Sometimes if one picks up the phone they can find an aftermarket crank from a company like Keith Black or ****. I had a friend when I was in high school ( a long time ago) that had a cad mill he wanted to put in a '55 Chevy. He decided he wanted a "stroker" motor and when he went to the local machine shop the old guy said sure we can do that by why don't you call this number first. it was the number for Keith Black, they said yep we just happen to have 3 of those, he got the crank way cheaper then a modified crank would have been. Just a thought.
there is a point on the strokers where rod to block clearance becomes a problem with a street engine. there are water p***ages down there at the bottom of the bore pan rail side that can be broken into. there are cranks out there that will bring a 92 up to 450 plus inches and while it is tempting i stay away from them due to what i described above.
Gary is spot on. I'm surprised nobody has mentioned rockers yet. Once lift get's beyond around .525 rocker arm geometry gets weird. The solution is spelled $$$ with raised rockers, billet etc. Aside from that the stock exhaust rockers do not like a lot of spring. If you are going to get serious with the springs get serious with the exhaust rockers. Here's a thread that I started sometime about the valvetrain in my digger. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...valvetrain-in-the-digger.673636/#post-7483276
=================== Olds used them beehives on the 215 V8 in 62. http://www.oldsobsolete.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/DSCN6164.jpg I figured it was part of the very serious light weight philosophy. Those were First ones I ever saw, but it is certainly possible that somebody had them even earlier.
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