So I'm mocking up my AV-8 project and I'm ready to mock up Trans mount. I mounted the motor mounts where the Vern Tardel book says to 3in back from radiator holes. This is what it looks like. I don't have a radiator to try so. I guess my question is does this look right? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
If you welded in your mounts, you didn't really "mock" it up did you? Don't believe everything you read. No it won't work like that. Cut them out and mock ALL your components up with clamps, wood blocks, and angle iron BEFORE you weld anything in. Make sure you stick a fan, headers, steering box, throttle linkage, oil filter, and anything else that may be a tight fit onto the car.
Agree with alchemy. The measurements in that book had me scratching my head too. I can't remember how I ended up figuring it out but in the end referenced body mount holes in the ch***is and worked from there because I wanted the body to be where it would have been. Not all the measurements in the book are wrong--I think where the k member was placed is correct and I may have used that clamped into the ch***is to figure the rest and check. I think I ended up welding pads on the A crossmember to move the radiator ahead a fraction of an inch. For reference, the rear facing surface of the radiator on mine is 28 3/4 inches from the front edge of the body block at the firewall. Using the same body mount block reference the distance to the center of the front engine mount bolt is 24 5/8". I have a 8BA engine and running with one belt for fan water pumps and gernerator. I have the front surface of the fan about 1/4" back from the radiator. Hope this helps and sorry I can't remember more as this goes back about 8 years at this point. Pete
There are some misprints in the book or so I have heard. The front side of my mounts are 3" back from the back side of the front crossmember. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Yeah I know about the I was playing with my tig welder and got a little carried away when the plan was just to tack them. Lol thanks for your response. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Thank you. This helps me a lot. I'll regroup using this technique. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I just went through this same thing on my 31 roadster. Here is a couple of suggestions that might help. Set the body where it is supposed to go on the ch***is. Put in blocks/spacers if you are using them and a couple body bolts on each side. Most of the radiator places give the measurements for their radiators. Use them to make up some sort of a replica of the radiator that you plan on using and set it up on the front crossmember where it will be mounted. Now with the fan, generator, and water pumps on the motor, set the spacing from the fan to your replica radiator and check the clearance at the firewall. It is a tight fit but you should be able to squeeze it in. Good idea to also mount the headers/manifolds and your steering column/box. This should show you where any interference is and also locate your motor mounts for you. My car has an open driveline and with the ****** bolted to the engine/bellhousing it now shows me where to mount my rear crossmember with trans mount. This might not work for you if you have a enclosed driveline. If yours is enclosed you may have to work from the rear crossmember forward. One thing I have learned is there are many ways to do this kind of stuff and you sort of check things out until you settle on the one which works for you in your situation.
Building a hot rod yourself and learning as you go is what it's all about! Do you have a build thread? I'd like to see more of your project. Love AV8s!
For me the fact that I did not want to split the wishbone dictated where the engine was going to be located. Very tight fit all around. I spent many sleepless nights trying to make it all work. Like the other guys said completely build the mechanicals before finish welding.
The measurement in the Vern Tardell book will work if you use a Mallory distributor. It is over 1 inch shorter than an original ford item. You still will only have about 3/8 inch clearance. I guess before Mallory came along they would have moved the radiator forward but then the car doesn't look right and the hood won't fit, or recessed the firewall a little bit and moved the whole lot back. The Tardell car uses a Mallory but the book doesn't say that it gives more space.
From the radiator hole CENTER in a Model A crossmember to the front edge of the 75mm x 50mm mount is 85mm on my Roadster. I've used standard flatty rubber donuts and the hole is in the center of the 75mm top of the mount. Will include a few pics of how it fits in my engine bay. As you can see plenty of front clearance and plenty at the rear too. I also set the mount above the ch***is as you can see. It made it easier to clamp to the frame when I set it up. I'll likely trim that off when I weld it in permanently. Hope this helps.
Also my wishbones are split out to the rails so i had no interferences in that regard. Another idea that might help.. if you set the mounts exactly as i explained above, you could then measure the distance from the centre of one water pump across to the other. Then tack a piece of tubing, or flat bar in front or behind the mounts.. measure the centre of the ch***is and then using the measurement from the water pumps, halve it, and each half draw it out from the centre and that will be where your holes need to go on the mounts. Or you can just put the mounts where i explained, and then set the engine onto them.. and measure all over to make sure you have the same distances from ch***is rail to engine block until you know its square and then centre punch the mounts for your holes. Up to you..
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