Anyone have a pic of an unsplit '35/'36 front wishbone? Specifically around the spring perch/spring shackle area? I need one but don't know exactly what I'm looking for. I wanna know it when I see it. Thanks, JH
What do ya' need that for? If you're going to install a dropped axle, ya' don't need it, use what ya' have. I can send ya' pics of mine '38 conversion using the stock radius rods. If ya' use a Magnum axle, don't let anyone bullshit ya' otherwise.
Modified Driver, please do either post that pic (pics) or email it/them to me at pike38237@yahoo.com. Thanks for that pic Lost Angel. That is what I needed. JH
Modified's pic shows a 37-40 wishbone. Angel's drawing shows a 35-36. The major visual difference is that the 40's perches come straight in line with the wishbone, but the 35's flare outward. It is common practice to use a 35 wishbone on a new I-beam axle when not splitting the wishbone. The 35 axle (like the new axles) has a narrower perch pin measurement than a 40 axle.
Go back and look at my previous post. I attached a pic I had on file. I'll take a few more this afternoon if you want. I have the spring, etc. installed now. I've done 5 of there installations, using different brand axles. The Magnum is the easiest, 'cause it's almost a bolt in. Ya' can use your stock radius rods and not cut a thing. Only parts ya' have to whack are the spindles (to use dropped steering arms) and the tie rod. I use square backed spindles, that are plentiful and cheap, so I don't have to cut my round originals. I'm installing new new king pins and bushings anyway, so I just buy the longer '42-'48 pins when I do the swap. I cut the RH threaded end of the tie rod off, shorten it the required amount and rethread it with the tap I bought from MSC. Ya' can still run the lever action shocks if your car still has them.
So what's your point . I don't understand what you're driving at . If the replacement axle has the same perch pin spacing as the original, which the Magnum has, then why confuse the issue and talk about '35 radius rods, 'cause ya' don't need them . The CE and Super Bell axles are narrower, and a bigger pain in the ass to install. How do I know this???
To ID '35-s radius rod: This is the only one of this width between perch holes, assuming nothing is bent--about 36 3/8". '37-41 will be about 38 1/2", '42-8 about 40 5/8".
You really need the Ford catalog--the pictures like that often apply to several similar but different models, and the numbers shown like "3405" are Ford ROOT numbers contained in all part numbers of parts with that function. A prefix in front of that number denotes what year and model the part was introduced for--for instance, a part first introduced on 1936 passenger cars would have "68" prefix. Part numbers generally remained unchnged for all their uses--a '36 axle, interchangeable back to 1932, still carries a ,32 "B" prefix. A modification or variation might add a suffix and other complicatifierators. So, this gets complicated fast, and you need that picture AND the text/list of variants that goes with it to really figure out if the '38 muffler bearing will fit your '35.
i don't really need any exact part names or numbers, just general info on what is what so i can better understand what all is being said. i'm not working on any like that right now, but i'd like to in the future (once my buick is closer to where i want it, my cycle is better off, and i have a garage to work in). i really just trying to edumicate myself. as for the muffler bearings though, i have a universial set that fit all cars.
there used to be a pic in this thread....i didn't have time to check again... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55439
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