Projects Only 15 First Hot Rod Build

I'm leaning towards a rebel or EZ wire as they're inexpensive and I don't really need all the doodads that come with the more expensive kits. Thank you for all the help I really appreciate it.

 

Thank you. Your Studebaker looks familiar. I really like the Willy's too.

 

I partially mounted the radiator. First I welded a piece of angle iron into the frame then I made two support brackets going to the firewall. I'm going to add two more mounting tabs at the bottom when I make the fender supports.


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Your doin great young man! Good thought process is apparent .....have fun and be safe!....is your floor wood? I always hang around and look for smoke for about 15 minutes after I stop welding.....wouldn't want your labor of love going up in smoke!

 

Thank you. Our floor is concrete but I still hang around for at least a half hour as we have a bunch of wood working stuff around that could possibly catch on fire.

 

Here's some work I did to the front fender View attachment 2798155 View attachment 2798156
Also is this an ok amount for the slip shaft to be out of the trans at ride height


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Hi Sam. Push the yolk in until it bottoms out then back out about 1 inch and that should be ok. Looks close where you have it.

 

Thank you so much for the driveshaft and the radiator!! It turns out the driveshaft you gave me is just the right length! I'm just going to need to get the adapter u joints. It actually looks like the fury rode with even a little more of the yolk out than in the picture.

 

Good that it will work for you.

 

How does this look for radiator placement? I'm just worried it might not get enough airflow because it sits so high.


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If there's no possible way to get the radiator down between the rails behind the grille, you can build an air deflector to direct the air which comes in through the grille opening upwards to the radiator. You'll still have a problem with the lower radiator hose getting in the way of the fan, however. An electric fan might be an alternative, but I don't much favor them except as an absolute last resort. The whole project is looking good so far! Keep up the good work!

 

^^^what missysdad said^^^

 

I would definitely lower the radiator as much as possible. It does look like airflow could be an issue.

 

Thanks guys. I might be able to lower the radiator but only an inch or two. The c10 radiator Bob(oldcars.acadia) gave me is slightly wider and will get more airflow but not by much.

 

Sam. Looks like there may be room for a cross flow to fit between the frame and under the fenders; or possibly stand a cross flow up on end if we can find one narrow enough fit down between the steering box and right frame. Give a call when you can.
Bob

 

I scored a 74? Dodge power steering pump and mount and headlights. The pump mounts on top of the engine because it was a factory plow truck and dodge used the stock pump for the hydraulics. I also got the alternator bracket which I needed. Best of all I got everything for 20 bucks.


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Here's my idea for the interior I want something that looks cool and is NOT a Mexican blanket


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Hey Sam, good score. Chasing parts beats school any day.

 

Definitely. Unfortunately I have mid terms this week but at least I get out at 12


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I agree, good job and you are learning a lot! Radiator should be several inches lower if you can. So the bulk airflow through the grille goes right into the radiator. Nothing is more frustrating than a car that runs hot, and airflow *through* the radiator is what removes the heat.

 

I think I'm going to mount the radiator like this
If it becomes a problem in warmer weather I'll make some shrouds or buy a low profile aluminum rad off of ebay that can mount under the fenders.
I do need some opinions on brakes. I can get a manual 74 dodge truck M/C for free and then use the s10 proportioning valve. Will this work? The only problem I can see is that I think the dodge was drum drum. From what I've read some people say it's no problem while others say discs use too much fluid for a drum M/C.
I also decided I didn't want a later model column so I just bought a support bearing off ebay for the end of my column.
As always thanks for any help.

 

Hope that works out OK for you but the radiator should be at least 6" lower IMO and the brakes are not the place to scrimp, better to buy what will work than use free stuff just because it is free. Safety first is always a good policy.

 

Hi Sam. 74 may have the front discs. Get the pedals and linkage and look to see if it has discs. You can change to a disc/ drum master later if need be. The old master may need to be upgraded anyway. The drum/drum can be used if the residual valve to the front is removed if it has one.
I have some GM pedals, brackets and power masters you can have . You need to take them out and with the 2+ feet of snow for Tuesday it may be awhile.
Also have a thought on the radiator. Give a call sometime.
Bob

 

Here's the seat I traded the broken welder for

 

Its been a while since I've posted but I've gotten a lot done. I ended up using the fury radiator by tilting it so the bottom sticks out from the grill opening slightly which allows it to be mounted lower. Yesterday was my birthday and I got a 4x8 piece of 18 gauge sheet metal and a bottle of c25. I also bought a bearing from eBay for the steering column. Right now I'm working on the floor braces. After I get the floors in, column master cylinder and fuel tank mounted, and some bodywork I can start the wiring.[emoji1]

On another note I'm going to finish this for an "independent" English project. Which means it needs to be done by May[emoji50].

 

Only a true hot rodder would be all stoked about getting a hunk of sheet metal and a bottle of welding gas for his birthday. Good on ya'...!

 

Good progress Sam. Missed you at the meeting. Still have the box of magazines in the truck.

 

Sorry about not getting to the meeting. I had a bad cold and didn't want to infect everyone

 

Here is the stock plymouth temp gauge sender(?). I would like to use it but it is way to big to fit in my intake. Is it possible to soldier on a smaller sender that will fit in the stock 318 location? Or should I buy an electrical gauge and adapt it to fit in the stock hole in the dash?