I've read some articles about using a spacer so the wheel bottoms out correctly on the drum. I ran them on 40-48 drums in the 70's without any issues. There should be a thread about it here on the Hamb. Tim
Not a good idea. The shape of the drum is not compatible with the shape of the wheel. Having a thick enough spacer (Not sure, but maybe 1-1/4") would put the wheel outboard by an amount that would compromise wheel bearing loads and give excessive king pin offset. Mart.
Thanks a lot for the replys, going to have to think this one out, I have 5 new tires on 35 wheels, and the f 100 brakes all rebuilt on the front.
That information only applies to early drums like you used. Mart's information applies to all later style drums. And yes, there are other HAMB threads about this.
I have the same set up going on my 34 right now. With the wheel back tight against the drum the spacer looks like it would need to be about 7/8". Wheel spacers are super common in the jeep world with WAY bigger tires and weak unit bearings. They work fine. What you do have to watch out for is the tires tend to roll around in an arc instead of pivoting on their king pin axis. This will depend on tire diameter and kingpin angle.
I'm facing the same thing. Got a set of F100's and can't find 40-48's so I can run my 35 wires on the sedan. Someone using 56 F100 brakes and 35 wires give us your experience.
A friend bought a car with Buicks and 35 wires all around. The spacers required were so thick the whole drum was sticking out. It looked stupid as hell. It drove terrible. It looked like a Honda tuner. He pulled it all off and sold the Buicks.
I machined mine. A spacer and an adapter. This is a 56 drum and 48 spindle. Speedway sells the adapter.
Thanks for asking that question Oldscout it gives me some answers for quite similar questions on my Model A and I may dig into that parts stash over > in the shed rather than using the nine inch rear that I had planned on using.
Reyn, do you have any pictures of the wheel mounted showing how far the brake drum sticks out on the back side? What are the dimensions of each spacer used? Overlength studs? Im doing the same deal on a modified. Thanks.
The aluminum spacer is 1 3/16 " thick and 7 11/16" dia. The link I gave in post #11 from speedway has the dimensions listed there. Mine measures pretty much the same. I bought 3" studs and cut them to 2 3/4 . The rim to backing plate measurement is 1 3/8".
Well, it's spacers or get rid of my wheels and buy steel ones, or get rid of my f 100 brakes and buy a 40 brake setup. Dumprat's right about the jeeps using them without problems. So I'm going with the spacers like Reyn did, I like the look of the 35 wheels better, and the wife got me new hub caps for Christmas, so I better keep them.
I have the exact same situation. I haven't made up my mind yet. like you still thinking it out - disc wheels on all four or change to Lincolns up front and keep my wires.
REYN your wheel setup looks good , did you have any problems finding long studs? I'm doing a similar set up with rally America adapters Thanks for your post
See, I've heard and understand that, too. I have a follow up to the OP's original question. I ended up running my 35s on 40-48 drums for the front, but I have a ford 8" rear end, which has a 1 1/4" spacer on the drums (to even out track width) and on the spacer I'm running the support ring. The backs of the wheels don't touch the drums the way they do in the front, only where the hubs are bolted to the drum. I've heard this can cause damage....is that true? If so, is the fix extending the mating surface of the spacer outwards so the backs of the wheels butt up against it? I ask because I heard they might need that "back pressure" against the drum for support.
Do the back sides of your 35s touch the drum face around the lip of the drum the way they would on 40-48s? Is it necessary that they do?
On mine they don't. I machined them with a small space. I am not sure if they should be touching or not. I could cut them down so there is a little pressure on them. From what I have read, a lot of people are driving around with these spacers. I have never heard of them having to be touching. Maybe someone will reply that knows.
I have a 35 four door, and I just checked, the outside part of the wheel doesn't come up tight on the drum. And I checked on the roadster that I'm building, and I have the 40 drum brakes on the back with the adapters that speedway sells, and the outside of those wheels do not touch the drums either. The way I understand it is the adapter that Speedway and others sell support the wire wheels at the center opening, that's why the raised inner rim on the center. I also have a 28 sport coupe that had 40 brakes on it when I bought it, but I had to buy the adapters to run the 28 wire wheels. Those I bought from Clings. As long as I use a spacer with the adapter like Reyn did, it will be fine with the F100 drums.
They were saying that back in the early 1960s too but bearings are cheap and I've never heard of it causing a problem.
I realize that the essence of the OP's question was how to make his early Ford wires work on his F- 100 (F-1?) series Ford hubs, but another possibility is to use Coker aftermarket wires. They will bolt up to the later Ford truck hubs. I plan to use them on my '30s era champ car. https://www.cokertire.com/wheels/wire-wheels/hot-rod-wire-wheel-primed.html
Well I solved my problem, found a set of 47 brakes locally so next its a dropped axle and start installing and then get new tires on the 35 wires. If they will stop a 47 Ford they should stop a Model A just fine.
I use 1940 brake drums and Bendix self-energizing brakes on my A like this http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-self-adjusting-39-lincoln-brakes-2-shoes.124317/
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