I'm ashamed to admit that I've owned this car for the past 4 years and I've only ever driven it into and out of my shop space. I'll spare the excuses as to why I haven't been more committed to the car and replace them with a simple promise; I'll get this car back on the road as quickly as I can, in a safe and reliable manner, and cruise the shit out of it by the end of the year. I plan to keep the build clean and simple; my tool box, talent level, and project budget are limited. The car is a 1950 Chevrolet Styleline Deluxe with 216 and 3 speed, it didn't run drive or stop when I towed it home. I've picked away at it little by little and gathered parts over the years. The car looks good from far, but it's far from good. So far I've: Rewired 90% of the car with a Rebel Wire 9+3 kit, the remainder of the switches/plugs/terminals that I'll need are on the shelf waiting on me. Rebuilt the carb, replaced plugs & wires, and got the car idling well. Sandblasted the wheels & painted them bronze, polished the stainless dog dish caps, and put fresh radials on all 4 corners and the spare. I'll replace the black wall radial tires with a set of wide whites when my budget allows. Installed 3" rear blocks and new shocks in the rear. Installed dropped uprights from a '54 car, cut 1 coil off of the coil springs, and installed new shocks up front. New headlight bulbs and new tail light assemblies provide improved lighting. I'm almost finished installing bendix brakes from a '54 car, need to find someone locally who can press the hardware from the backing plates as the mounting spacers are seized to the bolts. I have a complete rear end from a 51 car but I'm hesitant to make the swap. I want the upgraded brakes but I'd prefer a powerglide gear ratio. I'm sure there's more that I'm overlooking right now so I'll update this as I progress. I'm currently hung up trying to decide on master cylinder options. I want a dual reservoir master, and I'd prefer to keep it under the floor, but I need it to be able to operate discs if/when I decide to go that route. I've seen some good tech threads on here but don't trust my welding enough to build my own bracket for a MC conversion. Any input into the options out there currently? Any suggestions other than what's below? Should i send mine to Buffalo Enterprises for a conversion or to The Filling Station for conversion? I don't want to put my wife (and someday my girls) in the car with a single reservoir master cylinder. I also need all of the parts to the emergency brake system from the lever to the rear wheels, but I'll have to do more research as I think i need new parts if i install the '51 rear end. https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detai...ster_Cylinder_Adapter_Kit_4054_Chevrolet.html http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com/master-cylinder-and-brake-clutch-mount-1949-1951-chevy/
Haven't gotten around to my brakes yet, sorry. One day though, it's on the list and she's stopping fine for now anyways. That's gonna be a cool driver when you're finished. I love these cars!
IMHO the under floor location makes filling and bleeding a pain, but so be it. Bolt pattern is the same, run a drum master and if/when you go to discs, just buy a disc-drum master for the same application.
I'm not stuck on the idea of keeping it under the floor. I'd prefer to bite the bullet and buy the right parts the first time in an attempt to only do it once. I'm open to suggestions here...the collective knowledge of this group far exceeds my own!
I have the dual master conversion from Chevs of the 40's. It mounts a dual master behind the stock one and the actuating rod runs through the gutted stock one. The kit came with lines and everything. I've since switched the master and made new lines since I installed a Mustang II front end, but the kit worked well with the stock stuff.
Wayfarer has it right...there are multiple sources for bolt-on MC kits, complete including the MC, brackets, etc. They're not huge money, maybe $200, and they're pretty easy to install. Chevys of the '40s has them, so does National Chevy Association, and there are multiple vendors on Ebay. You can easily swap the MC for disc/disc when the time comes. As far as bleeding goes, spend the $40 for 4 speed bleeders. They're spring loaded wheel cyl bleeders...let fluid out, but NOT in. Bleeding the brakes will become a 15 minute, 1 person job. Worth EVERY penny. You hit the nail on the head re: Powerglide rear. If you're trying to save money, but want to improve driveability, find a torque tube middle section from a Powerglide car...I think anything from 49 - 54 will work. The center section is a bolt on conversion...really...it's easy. You'll get 3.55 gears that will get you up to a comfy 60 - 65mph vs. having the engine screaming at 50. The bendix drum brakes, while not as good as discs, work perfectly fine. One tip...spring for some self-adjusting hardware...I think you can get a kit for $40 an axle or so. You won't have to adjust your brakes again, or worry about them getting squirrely because they're out of adjustment. If I were you, I'd swap the electrical system to 12V if you haven't done so already. Doing so will give you a faster cranking starter, allow for modern accessories (you gotta have tunes!), and safter jump starting. One last suggestion - install some LED rear tail lights. I'm pretty sure that they're made for your car in a complete sealed unit in the shape of the tail light lens, so they're a 5 minute install. They're CRAZY bright, and will make sure that people see you when you hit the brakes. The factory bulbs are not, in my opinion, bright enough to be seen easily. With those changes, and the ones you've already done, you should have a comfortable, SAFE daily driver. Good luck. Chris
I'm watching this too. Right now with the summer weather I've replaced the gas tank, fuel pump and filters and am driving the hell out of mine during the summer to local shows and cruise nights as well as on errands around town. I've been working on getting the hood nosed, starting on bodywork, pulling the side trim off and generally doing improvements that still allow me to drive the car. Once the snow hits I'll start on doing the 12 volt conversion, adding dual carbs and split exhaust, lowering the car, upgrading the breaks, etc. as I can afford it. Right now I'm mostly just drivin' and grinnin'.
Just an update for anyone reading this and thinking of swapping to a dual master cylinder setup, National Chevy Association no longer sells their dual master kit (as a kit) due to a supply issue with the master cylinders. I decided upon the ECI Hot Rod Brakes master cylinder mounting system (ECI Part # ECI-440S), a 1" bore mustang master cylinder for disc/drum setup, and a 10PSI residual valve to run while I keep the '54 drum setup up front. This setup should allow me to make an easy transition to discs up front, should I ever choose to go that route, by swapping the 10PSI residual valve for a 2PSI unit.
Finally back on the ground...a little more brake work and it's time for a test run. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Thank you. I'd like the front an inch lower but I believe it will settle a bit once I get a few miles on the car. I want to order jamco springs (to replace the cut coils) but I haven't read anything good about them in a while...I need to do a little bit of reading as I recall another custom spring vendor but I can't recall that info right now. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Just a quick update to let you all know. . .I haven't touched this damn thing in months! Get the tar and feathers ready, I'm going to add her to the "sitting and rotting" thread. I might even post the damn thing for sale at some point. Wife and kids are out of town next week so I'll try to make some progress!
Well, that's how life is. One step at a time. I like the color you painted the rims, changes the look a lot.
Piles of parts waiting on me right now...headers, intake, ignition, electrical switches, etc. The discs are mounted, just need to figure out what lines I need to buy in order to plumb the brakes (again!).
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