Hot Rods The 56 buick wagon wont start again?

Let's just get the resistor byp*** circuit fixed and see if it will fire up consistently and run. They want to go get a milkshake.

 

I am still re reading all the posts and going thru the tests again .I dont think I can afford a new wiring kit being on disability. Like rfraze I just want to get it running. Bruce.

 

Allow me to join the "just want it running"club. Follow instructions from '31 Vicky. I put in my 2cents in December but I think you should just work with 31Vicky to solve without throwing $ at the problem. "I think you can, I think you can"...

Larry

 

Please just follow the yellow wire from starter up to the first place you can disconnect it. Set meter to VDC (20) and test with key off. There should be no voltage.

 

rfraze.I disconnected the yellow wire wire coming up from the starter from the junction box and tested it for voltage and there was none.Bruce.

 

Why not just disconnect both ends of the darn yellow wire and run a new any color wire direct from starter ign terminal to the coil ? If it starts and quits that moves the problem to the ign resister circuit. If it doesn't start it is the solenoid internal connection .

 

Bruce, That's good.
1. Could you check same wire (disconnected) while cranking?
2.Check voltage where battery cable bolts to starter (key off).

 

Phtttt-
That guy is an ***hole

There's just a few ways to go about something that could be considered as a correct procedure.

What's wrong with using a tester that gives information vs a jumper wire that creates wonderment and that wonderment leads to using a tester anyway. Isn't it just better to run a few tests and jot down the results? This really is 10 mins or less to diagnose.

 

Correct, or not enough voltage getting to starter.
Without being too critical of Bruce, it seems one thing at a time is best and we get the answers. 31Vicky has listed all the tests over and over.
What we need to know now is if the starter is getting battery voltage (was 12.66). If so, and the solenoid is only sending 10.21 v thru yellow wire, Ol Buzzard, d2willys, 31Vick, you, and everyone else was correct that it is time for a new or cleaned solenoid. That yellow wire needs to be getting near battery voltage during cranking, which it was not.
If solenoid is not getting battery voltage, voltage needs to be checked where cable bolts to junction block.

 

Let me try and get you some answers today.Its only 9 here now so I may have to wait a bit to get down to the shop ,but I will answer your questions.ThanksBruce.

 

That's good. Now could you check voltage at:
1. Yellow wire up from starter (disconnected from j. box) while cranking.
2. Voltage at solenoid where Batt cable attaches.

 

Rfraze I got 10.3 volts with the yellow wire off up from the starter while cranking.I rechecked and the battery had 12 volts there, then at the junction box positive post, 12 volts there and then down to the starter it had 12 volts too.

 

Very good. The only thing you have not checked is voltage at solenoid stud where yellow wire attaches, just in case the wire is bad. That one is up to you. I believe the tests tell you is that it is past time to fix or replace the solenoid. Can you take the starter off? (Be sure and make a diagram, so things go back together correctly.)
Did the starter seem to turn the engine over fast enough or was it slow? If it did, you can probably just replace or rebuild the solenoid. If slow at all, you might want to take it to a starter shop and have it tested, THEN cleaned, new brushes, new solenoid installed, and tested again. Have them test the voltage at solenoid byp*** wire stud while cranking, also. When you put it back in you will know everything is working properly.
Old Buzzard suggested pulling the solenoid apart and cleaning the contacts. Are you up for that?
When back together, check voltage during cranking at disconnected yellow wire. Should be near battery voltage, right? The goal is getting that voltage to coil + during cranking. (Hopefully, you can reconnect the second wire at j. box, test at the upper end during cranking, and attach it to coil+.) After cranking coil+ voltage should drop back down to whatever reading you got out of resistor.

 

What did you decide to do about replacing the solenoid?

 

Rfraze, been iced in here for 3 days now. I got cabin fever and took the sled and rode down to the shop on the ice and snow and brought up the starter {too cold for the shop today}Took the solenoid all apart and took fine sand paper to all the cruded up copper parts and cleaned everything else back up .As soon as it warms up a little { it going down here to about -10 here tonight VERY RARE for here}I will reinstall it and let you know .Thanks Bruce.

 

Great! Keep up the good work.

 

Rfraze, I will keep you up dated buddy! Bruce.

 

I got the 56 buick wagon running today.I got rid of all the all the old stuff that went with the push ****on starter including the push start ****on and converted it to a regular ignition where you just turn the key and she starts now.Still got a lot of loose ends to tie up. Thanks to you all for your help and a special thanks to Rod . P .S got wacked again today can you see where the drive way and the edge of the cliff are on the drive way? I cant either. Bruce.

 

There now that was easy...go press the Easy ****on. Let everyone know if you get your snowblower started or not so we'll have something to talk about to keep this thread goin.

 

Slopok I been iced in here since last Monday.I was going to try the driveway this morning and woke up to this.Bruce.

 

Good deal!
What did you find within the starter solenoid?

 

Wow.
Really glad that the wagon started and ran again.
Just want to say that in my 72 chevy wiring awhile back i learned about all this stuff and color wires to and from everything. Fix it once like this by testing all the wires and you remember it forever right?
It all seems confusing until you test ONE at a time.

 

So bruce i would like to add a bit,
Noticed in one of your posts that you said you set your points gap to .17 not .017. Was that a typo on your part? If not your gap is too big.
And from what i remember once your timing is set and gap is correct your dwell is correct also. Your dwell follows your points gap in a way. Good gap is good dwell. Unless of course your distributor is shot.
Dwell is just how long the point is opened for right?
You have tons of great info here on this thread to check too. Have fun with it as you bust your nuckles.
It seems to me that you should check for any vacuum leaks incase your losing vacuum when you put it in drive. But i will check your picks to see if you have a vacuum advance on that thing.
Good luck and if you need any wiring info or picks let me know. I have a 54 buick. Maybe i can help.

 

yeah you have vacuum advance right in this pic right?
make sure its working correctly at idle after its all warmed up. just a thought.

 

The diaphragm could be shot.

 

Don't forget these shavings aren't supposed to be there.

 

31 Vicky, the solenoid was all crudded.I took it apart and cleaned everything with fine sand paper and put it back together. I think that push ****on **** had a lot to do with it .I am glad I got rid of all of that stuff and switched it over to a regular ignition switch.Bruce.

 

Black Clover Custom , yes it was a typo.The dwell is right on the money.Like I said now I had to finish up the small stuff like you said.Thanks Bruce.{P.S. I just replaced the distributor}

 

31Vickey, maybe I didn't tell anyone I been so busy with the old girl.I did replace the dist.Thanks.Bruce.

 

I certainly missed that dizzy replacement part if you did mention it. Glad you got it running. An Exciting test drive is coming when the snow melts for sure!