Projects CAE Sidebells

I have been looking for a set of CAE sidebells for like 6 months. I scored a set this weekend at the Big 3 here in San Diego.

And look what came with them a CAE quickchange!!!!!

Craig

 

C L

 

Yes, VERRRRRRRRY CL!!!!!!!!!

If you get a chance, please post some more pictures. I had some side plates like this in the past and now that I am writing a book about QCs, I don't have a picture of that style. I do have a slightly different style CAE plate. Will take a picture of it later and post.

 

I did casually view them last night when I got home. There are a few things I noticed right away. First the outside rib just inside where it bolts onto the champ is much stronger and thicker than the Halibrand. Next the holes to mount the early axle tubes go all the way though the sidebell as you can see in the photo and are threaded all the way through. Next as the other CAE sidebells ribs going to the center are much thicker going to the center of the hub. And lastly the center is thicker than the Halibrand as well. On the front there is also a reinforcement on the center on top of all that.

 

Nice find. Here is another style even more beefier. I have only had two sets of this model. They are much stronger than the Halibrand H852A model.

 

So the back looks pretty much the same? But the front as the extra ribs on the outside edge?

 

Do you have any photos of the front side of that sidebell Pewsplace?

 

Only the ones shown above with the ribs. They were NOS when I purchased them from a fellow on Fordbarn. They look just like yours except for the ribs. I no longer have the QC but the new owner has tested them for durability and they seem to hold up well with HP.

 

love learning the history of some of these old brands!

 

This is the style I have. unfortunately, I only have one.

Would be interested in buying, selling or trading. I have at least 4 side plates and bells with no mate.

 

Wow...really cool parts! I'd love to score a pair of bells and adapters for my Winters but I want to try it as-is and see if I like it first....great looking parts, man! I need to school myself before I go shopping.

 

I'm actually looking for one of that style. Shoot me a message or email with what you want out of it,
@GearheadsQCE. Email or PM - thedurs@icloud.com

 

Here are some pics of the one I have. Needs a good cleaning but truly NOS.

 

Rocky,
Before you weld that in, turn the engine around

 

Nothing wrong with the winters the way that it is but you may consider turning that engine around.

 

Oh, I think Rocky Knows better!
Question for the Gurus of Champ style Quick Changes: Is the thrust block necessary to limit crown gear deflection while under power? I notice no provision on the CAE side plates. Yet they were there on Fords original 3/4 ton "bells".

 

The part number looks the same as the ones that I have so it must be a later generation of mine.

 

In my first picture, the hole for the thrust bolt is at the very top. A similar boss is at the bottom undrilled. the other CAE plates I have had, used a brass bolt (3/4 - 16?)
For general use you can leave it out. If I was going to put some power thru it, I would definitely run it.

 

I am not sure what your'e asking but the side plates use a different differential than the 3/4 ton 11 bolt truck unit. The crown gear deflection may be a problem due to the wider bearing spacing on the truck unit but I am not familiar with your term. These side plates work perfectly with the correct spool or differential.

 

Thanks, guys - you've answered my question.

 

I was trying to mount an axle tube on the side of the CAE sidebell tonight and I assumed the stock ford banjo fine thread bolts would fit right into the mounting on the CAE sidebell and no go. Do you know why they used standard threads and not fine thread on the sidebell?

 

Yes, fine threads in aluminum are generally a no-no. The aluminum, strips out easily because of the shallow threads.
Many guys ran these with coarse/fine studs and nuts. These are getting harder to find, now. They are preferred because once the coarse ends are threaded into the aluminum (with Loctite) they can stay there. This saves the aluminum.

 

Can anybody post a pic (inside and outside) of the thrust bolt you guys are talking about? I've got an A/B style quickchange that I want to add a thrust bolt to, but not sure what to use. Is there a product on the market, or do you just buy the right size bolt and thread it in? I was thinking of using a stud and jamb nut through the housing, with a oillite cup over the end of the stud on the inside. The outside end of the stud would have a hex milled onto it for a wrench to turn it with.

 

The top two photos from Gearhead show the holes but without the bolt. I have never used them but you method seems right to me.

 

First of all, I lied. The middle picture in post # 13 shows the undrilled pad for the load bolt. It is at about 5 o'clock. The top photo shows the outside of the same plate. The pad is about 8:30 here.
The process you are describing sounds exactly like a Winters piece. I do not have one apart right now to take a picture. Instead of milling a hex on the end of the stud, just use a socket head set screw. Winters uses a 1/2-13. The original one for the CAE pictured is 3/4-16. Culbert used a brass bolt. You will have to add a pad on the outside for a jam nut to seat against.
Winters says just touching and back out 1/4 turn. I touch 'em and back off about 2 degrees. Why would you want to give the ring gear almost .020" deflection before making contact?
This is all really unnecessary unless you are putting some big loads through the rear. If you have a Midget style QC with no nose bearing, you have bigger things to worry about than the ring gear deflection

 

Should I drill those out and put in the bolt as I am using a 460 SBC in my new roadster? I don't think you put them in my last QC and it is still doing fine but with only 300 hp.

 

If I were doing it for you, I would probably recommend it. Just remember, that when using the V8 trumpets, you aren't going to have a lot of room in there. And, you will only likely do it on the initial assembly. You would have to break it down to make an adjustment. Maybe a soft setscrew and a thin jam nut. Stainless might be just the ticket.

 

In 1971 John Hoven debuted his Mustang funny car with a Halibrand Champ Q/C with the load bolt riding on the ring gear. 2500 H/P on fuel didn't bother it a bit. The bolt was steel with the end countered bored with a bronze (or brass) mushroom head button in the end against the ring gear. I don't think hot rodders on the street will ever have anything to worry about; with or without the load bolt.

 

My load bolt is so hokey I think I'll just run a common bolt in to fill the hole...Why they didn't drill the hole in the angled boss I don't know.

 

Rocky,
I think this is a Frankland bell. They used a brass shoe with a drive pin installed from the inside. The trick there was to drive the shoe in far enough to assemble the rear and let the ring gear (or crown wheel for those of you who use the king's English) push it in to proper depth. (Zero clearance) I use anti-sieze on the face of the shoe. Eventually, there will be enough clearance for the gear lube to get in there. Since someone has tapped yours, you can spot face a flat on the outside for a jam nut to seat against. Use a soft set screw (perhaps stainless) and screw it in until it just touches. Back it out ever so slightly and clamp the jam nut.