My model A hotrod has an inline chevy 6 with Offenhauser 3x1 carbs. However, I cannot ID this engine. Any experts out there that can help ? Casting # is 93406003. # on pad by distributor is CE 9N 00930. The best I could do was the casting # most closely matches a 292. I cannot find this decoded. The engine has a reverse oil pan compared to other pics I’ve seen and the block has GM and made in mexico. I was told a 250. But ???? Any help is appreciated.
This listing shows that it should be a 292 http://www.adchevy.com/info/6-cylinder-engine-casting-numbers. The side covers on a 292 will be about 6 inches high while the side covers on a 250 are a little over 4 inches high. A 292 has the by pass hose you see in this photo of my 292 while a 250 normally doesn't have one. One more clue is that the motor mounts are offset side to side on a 292 and straight across on a 250.
Well, my side covers are 4", no bypass and mounts the same position each side. So, I guess a 250 which is what the previous owner said. However, I couldn't find my specific casting # or decode the # on the pad near the dizzy. The oil pan has the deep pan area near the center. All the pics I've seen of 250's show the deep area to the rear. strange that the casting chart lists my casting # just two numbers off as a 292.
May have originally been a boat engine...... Mercruiser relabeled them and used them for boat engines. Might explain the oil pan?
...regarding 292's, can it use a 250 water pump and themostat housing to eliminate the bypass hose, or is it really necessary?
That's a 194 or a 230 or a 250....they all look similar. It should have a stamped set of numbers on a pad adjacent to the distributor. That'll tell the story.
1973-1979 250. Since you don't have a cylinder head that has an integrated manifold, the head is pre-1975.
not necessarily. Could be a later block with earlier head. If he got the head casting number and the crank number, it would help narrow it all down.
I believe the water pump impeller on the 250 is smaller. It will physically bolt up, but may not circulate enough water. As to the bypass, I am going to try to eliminate it on my 292. Maybe try putting the 292 impeller on a 250 pump. Will have to get one of each to check it out.
NOTE! The 250 Water Pump will bolt up to a 292 but it will not cool the motor enough and it will over heat. Use only a 292 Water pump on a 292 motor! The motor in the above photos is a 250 motor with short Side covers. The by pass outlets are perfect for heating the intake manifold. This is really necessary if you plan to drive it on the street. You won't be able to correctly atomize the fuel and it will run rough. If you don't take my word, call Tom Langdon @ Stoveboltengineco.com. He's the inline six Yoda.
Just saying worked for mine with no issues. Wouldn't overheat. I used a different thermostat housing altogether that had threaded ports. I used one of those ports for getting water to my heat plate under the intake. Others' results may vary.... mine was a "hecho in mexico" 1980's gm goodwrench replacement 292 with all the emissions crap originally. I installed a mercruiser cam, langdon exhaust manifolds, an offy intake, an used a 194 cylinder head. Engine was later swapped out for a V8. The buyer of the 292 installed it in a 1940's 1-ton truck and ran the heck out of it without any issues. Guy still kept in contact with me up until a couple years ago.
Just as a side note to this, I was looking into one of the water pump/fan riser units for a Chevy V8, designed to get the fan blades more centered on the tallish radiators used in some hot rods. Turns out that these use a 250-292 6 cyl water pump. The big deal with these is in order to move enough water to cool a V8, is to get a pump that has a thin steel plate on the back of the impeller. The plate helps to make the pump more efficient at moving water. I'll try and dig up a pump part #. K6
I'm guessing it's a Chevy II/Nova block based on the front sump and dipstick tube location. The rear sump pan "oil dipstick tube hole" is't even machined, so it's not a rear sump engine. Look into the spark plug hole on one of the cylinders; all 250 engines had dished pistons, if stock. The 194/230 pistons were flat tops, as were the 215 inline sixes used in Olds/Pont/Buick apps. Who knows why GM decided to make a 215 for the other GM brands, and not just use the 230/250 Chevrolet engines (like other "corporate" engines). I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Just a note about the head, a lot of the integral head engines had their heads replaced with the older style due to cracks that made them run very poorly.
There is a casting number on the passenger side of the engine, NOT a stamped number along with a date code that will be able to allow engine ID. This will be a number like 3994256 (which is a 66-77 250) in raised numbers. This is the number you want. The 230 and the 250 are virtually indistinguishable from the outside, as the main difference is in the top of the piston. Then the date code (should be a 4 digit number towards the rear of the engine, like a C036) can help get the engine ID tighter.
292 motor mounts are also not located the same distance from the front on both sides. They basically swapped location of the fuel pump and motor mount pad. Every 292 crank I've ever seen had at least one dowle pin . some have three. If you are using the stock water pumps- 292 pump on 292 / 230-250 on 230/250. Or use a marine bilge pump( has a brass impeler- hot water does not affect it ) and make a plate, plum it and throw all of that other away .( Also gives about 5 more inches of room)I put about 7000 ABUSIVE miles on a little blower motor that I took out of a rail dragster and then went to the street with it. Never gave a problem- at least not in the cooling department-lol
The Jalopy Journal
