Hot Rods Early 50's Rear Axel Question

Does any of you guys know anything about this type of rear axel?

 

I have never seen such a thing before. Doubt it is OEM. Very unusual to say the least.
Typically, anything with a fastener at the end is a tapered axle with a longer hub and a
big nut on the end. Or, a shoulder (register) to center the drum. Perhaps this is an
aftermarket axle of some type and that IS the drum register. What kind of car/truck is this from?

Ray

 

Looks much like a tri 5 brake set up. What kinda car is it in? Reckon it was the way a guy who worked in the aircraft plant made a wheel adapter?

 

Makes me wonder if the axle is keyed and the bolt holds the hub on the axle ?

 

Looks like a early attempt at a floating axel set up.

 

Guys!! Come on.......there's now way in hell that anybody would rely on a 3/8" or 7/16" bolt to hold a hub flange on!

Ray

 

That was my first thought. Scary

 

These are on an early Halibrand quick change complete axel assembly I recently purchased at the Big 3.

 

Here is pic with bolt removed.

 

Like I said - It is a full floater axel assembly

 

I don't think that qualifies as a "full floater". On a full floater, the hub itself not only rides on bearings on the axle housing, but the hub IS RETAINED on the housing independent of the axle shaft. The "float" part of the deal is that the axle shaft only transmits rotational motion, does not support any weight and is not affixed to, or retained by, the differential carrier. Early Ford axles are retained by differential, and in turn retain the hubs. But that does nothing to retain the hubs should an axle break. But at least the early Ford axle/taper shaft uses a much larger (in effect) "bolt" to hold the hub to the axle shaft.

At best, this is some version of a semi-floating axle/hub and it appears that the hub IS retained by the small bolt. Based on photos to date, I think this is a very unsafe arrangement. If further disassembly reveals it is assembled differently that what it appears to be, I'll gladly eat a generous portion of humble pie.

Ray

 

It had to be keyed or splined and I see its splined. I never seen a set-up like that but it's definitely unique. The bolt holds the flange on and the splines handle the torque forces. I don't see why it wouldn't work.

Pat

 

I don't see any problem with it transmitting rotational forces...propelling the car. However, side loads, cornering.....the only thing keeping the hub on is, at most, a 1/2" bolt. I would think that is placing an awful lot of faith in the tensile strength of that bolt.....even a Grade 8 bolt...as seen in the photos.

But, I am not an metallurgical engineer.....or any recognized engineer for that matter....maybe an intuitive one, if there is such a thing. But, considering there a five (5) 1/2" lug studs holding the wheel on, and only one 1/2" bolt holding the hub on, it seems inconsistent to me.

Ray

 

Slickmick, can you remove the hub from the axle, take a pic or two, and let us see what the backside of the hub and the end of the axle housing look like?

Ray

 

I'm with Ray on this one...consider the pre-62 Mopar assembly with a tapered stub and a large Jesus nut to hold the hub/drum in place. Compare it to that tiny cap screw and the assembly looks a bit scary. I do not think that I would be going around corners with that.
Perhaps some additional, detailed, photos would shed some light.

.

 

I'd like to see what is behind the axle flange. I believe Halibrand had a double splined axle for street rods, (after Ted sold the company) Never seen one, but understand that there were problems.

 

That looks a little to the Lotus side. And that means light.

Lotus made it so light it could brake, beefed it up and tested it. When satisfied with the test, it was build.

I read an article from one of the test drivers, about a setup he made. A collapse able safety steering collum. Two seamless thin walled pipes, one 3 inches inside the other, and a 3 or 4 mm bolt true both of the pipes. When in a crash, the collum should collapse, and not impale the drive.
Going around a corner at high speed, driver hits a pot hole, snap the pin, and ends ass over head in a field.
Next test drive he asks if he made it better, yes no worries. After the test drives he ask what he did, weld it.
No, just went to 5 mm 10.8 instead. (Grade 8). He wouldn't accept over kill.

And if that rearend survived a fair beating and general racing, that bolt cans be that bad.
And this is my personal opinion, but I would still like to see more pics!