Received the new residual valves from Yogi's and replaced the one that wouldn't seal. Will bleed the brakes again tomorrow. Also routed the tranny cooler lines. Given that the cooler ports are on the driver's side of the 904 rather than the passenger side like the GM's the routing presented a challenge because there was already so much stuff crammed into the space between the tranny and the frame---brake pedal, MC, brake lines, and the Lokar linkage to the floor shifter. Hopefully the pictures carry enough of the detail. I used high pressure 3/8's rubber hose to link the tranny ports to some 3/8's steel line I ran inside the frame rail to the front and then back to the hose to link them to the cooler. I used a cooler from a jeep truck. You can see it behind the grill picture mounted to the air deflector below the radiator. Also attached the vent line from the gas tank to the frame over the rear end and added a hose from the vent on the 8" axel housing. The vent actually holds the rear brake line "T" to the axel housing. Unlike a GM vent, that has a built in cover, the Ford's use a hose to vent the rear. You can see it in the background of the 1st picture. The second picture is looking up from below the grill at the cooler where the pressure hose connects. Will pull the 33 off the lift after bleeding the brakes tomorrow and get back on the wiring.
I apologize for the lack of updates, but there hasn't been much done over the last few months. Rod meets, a need to get the metal work done on a 50 chopped top Ford, problems with the wife's 48 PU, etc., put the Dodge on the back burner. While I did get some of the wiring done it wasn't enough to warrant posting on this thread. The next month doesn't look too promising either, with all the family commitments for Nov., but my main focus on this project should be in gear before the end of the year.
So, the wife has been gone to visit a new grandchild for the past two weeks and after doing all the things on the list she left me, I finally got back to the 33. Or maybe it was the putting the new floors in the 50 Ford or finally getting far enough along on the 49 Sedanette to put the engine in and the body back on the chassis that diverted my attention. Anyway, I started working on the steering column placement yesterday. While it might have been easier to have used one of Ididit's inch and a half columns what fun would that be? As I mentioned in an earlier post "ezdusit" contributed a 32 column and steering wheel to the project a couple of years ago and I wanted to honor my promise to him that I would use it. I was having trouble getting the placement of the column down by myself, so I made a heavy cardboard replica of the toe board and drilled a 1 1/2" hole in it to slide the column down through and then used a cut up coat hanger wire to hold the column in place where the lower dash mount will go. I sort of guessed at the initial location of the hole, using some pictures from a recent post, "Idahorocks 34 Plymouth build", demonstrating his interior installation. The pictures he posted of the carpet installation gave me a good approximation of where to put the column hole. I traced the pattern of my actual toe board on the "heavy" cardboard, including several of the bolt holes, cut it out and drilled the column hole. I bolted the cardboard toe board to the firewall and floorboard then slid the column down through the hole and adjusted the temporary wire column mount and how far down through the hole the column went as I sat in the seat to get a good clearance for my legs. I had the 32 steering wheel bolted to the steering shaft inside the column so I could test clearance. I wrapped some masking tape around the column where it went through the cardboard toe board to keep it from slipping through. I then marked the column on the engine side of the fake toe board removed it an made a first cut of the column and the inner steel steering shaft. I reinstalled the column so I could check how it would line up with the DD shaft coming off the steering box. I will need to shorten the column and the center shaft a little. Problems I am going to have to figure out: 1) The brake pedal comes through the toe board about 1/2" to the right of the column hole. It will work but I would like a little more distance between the two. I can't move the column very far left, because the original steering wheel is 17" across and there is just enough room between it and the door to get your hand in between. 2) I am going to have to machine down a couple of inches of , say a 4" piece of DD shaft so I can slip up inside the hollow steering shaft, pin it and probably weld it leaving about 2" of the stock DD shaft protruding so I can attach a universal joint. I am going to have to be very careful on the placement of the turned down DD end into the shaft. The steering wheel is locked onto the shaft with a pressed in key and a nut. If I want the top spoke of the three spoke wheel at dead center top and the protruding end of the DD piece to line up with the U-joint. Will try to post pictures later
Here are the pictures. The distance between the 17" steering wheel and the A pillar in the last picture looks much greater than it actually is. As I mentioned earlier, when the door is closed there is only about 2-2 1/2" between it and the wheel. Just enough to get your hand by when turning the wheel. I really need to move the column about 3/4" to the left, toward the door, to give me a clearer brake pedal, but then I have even greater clearance problems between the door and wheel. This could be solved by a smaller steering wheel but then I lose the originality of the interior, plus any other wheel would require a different size interior shaft or a graft of a spline onto the shaft at the top. Delimma????????????
Silverdome, I did give some thought to cutting the lever and rewelding it further to the right, but I didn't have the clearance because of the 904 Tranny and the linkage set up. After screwing around with the positioning for most of the afternoon a couple of days ago, I went ahead and traded the cardboard toe board for one made of some laminate flooring I had left over from a new floor in the kitchen. I moved the hole in the toe board for the column up 1/2" and over 1/2" in the laminate pattern from the cardboard one. Even thou I used a thick cardboard for the initial mockup it wasn't quite stiff enough to give me an accurate pattern to transfer to the stock steel toe board. It did provide a good first approximation however. There was a stock plate behind the dash that the original column drop bolted to. So, I cut a piece of 3/16" plate 4" wide and 6" long, heated it up with the cutting torch, bent it 90 degrees 2" down from the top, creating an L bracket to mount to the stock plate. I drilled two 1/4 inch holes in the 2" top of the bracket to mount an Ididit column drop. The Ididit drop had horizontal slots which allowed it to move from side to side. I cut two 3/8 " vertical slots about an inch and a half long in the remaining 4" piece of the L bracket, positioned to bolt to the stock plate behind the dash. That allowed me to move the bracket and the column drop up and down. With the new hole in the toe board and the movement flexibility of the bracket, I was able to get the column straightened out, at an angle that allowed 2" between the side of the steering wheel and the door, allowed clearance between the wheel and the window crank, gave me more room between the up position of the brake pedal and the column, and minimized the angle that U-joint at the end of the steering shaft will have where it hooks to one of the two sections of DD shaft I will be using. I was going to have to use 3 U-joints anyway. One on the end of the steering box that connects to the first DD shaft. One on the other end of that DD shaft which connects it to a second DD shaft angled up to the column and one between the second shaft and the column. And, yes I am running the first shaft through a shaft mount bolted to the frame. The column placement also gave me 8 1/2" between the seat and the bottom of the steering wheel so I can slide my legs in. That may not seem like much leg room, but when I measured the stock clearance between the wheel and the seat in my 60 Wagon it was only 7". The 33 cabs are small to start with so I was pretty happy with this positioning. Next, I am going to have to turn down a couple of inches on one end of say a 5" section of DD shaft so I can shove it up into the hollow bottom end of the stock steering shaft. I will then pin and weld it to the shaft, leaving a couple of inches of unmolested DD shaft protruding which will allow me to install the U-joint at the bottom of the column.
Over the weekend I drilled some 1/8" holes into the cracked areas on the steering wheel and then "V" cut the cracks with a cut off wheel, mixed up some JB weld Kwik and filled the areas. Will sand the weld today mix some body filler for a final coat, sand and DP 90 the wheel. Cut the column down to the proper length. Will cut the shaft after a friend turns down one end of a DD shaft on his lathe to slide up into the steering shaft. HAVE TO BE CAREFUL to turn the DD shaft to where, when I pin and weld it in the steering shaft corresponds with the wheel being in the right position. Remember the wheel slides over the outer column with the shaft protruding up through it and held on by a nut. The shaft is held stable in the wheel by a key slot keeper. Have to make sure when I insert the keeper slug and tighten down the wheel to the shaft and put the wheel spokes where I want them (it is a three spoke and I probably will put one spoke straight up dead center) I can still turn the turned down end of the DD inside the shaft on the other end to where it allows the U-joints to match up while leaving the wheel at dead center. Then tack the DD shaft, remove the column and pin and finish welding it. Will try to get this done before Christmas. And Merry Christmas to everyone.
Been working on restoration of the steering wheel. After the initial sanding of the JB weld I have been working with light coats of body filler, rough sanding with 80 grit. Will put on a final coat of filler today and work it down with some 180. Made a keeper slug out of a small scrap piece of 3/16" steel plate that holds the wheel in place on the shaft. Cut the shaft down. I started with a conduit cutter to get a even cut line and was surprised that it cut all the way through the steel shaft. Tightened it down very slowly. The outer column is an inch and a half in diameter. Took the suggestion of a friend and bought a inch and 5/8's freeze plug, 75 cents at NAPA, to use as a cap on the lower end of the column. Went to a friend's who has a metal lathe and a pretty good assortment of machining tools and we cut a 7/8" hole in the freeze plug and slid it up over the shaft onto the bottom of the column, drilled two small holes on opposite sides of the lip/side of the freeze plug and then, after slipping it up over the bottom of the column drilled on through the column and used some small self taping screws to hold the plug on the column end. This should prevent water and other crap from getting up in the lower/engine side of the column. While we were at it, he center drilled a 1/4" hole through the steering shaft, about 3/4" up from the bottom of the shaft so I can pin the DD shaft in it when I get it turned down and slide it up inside the steering shaft. He also carefully deburred the inside of the shaft so there will be no impediments to sliding the cut down DD shaft into it. Once I get all the parts finished I will post a picture of them before assembly and after.
Finally was able this morning to get together with my friend with a 4 chuck lathe to turn down the DD shaft. Since two sides of the DD shaft are flat we needed to be able to hold it on both sides and on both rounded edges to get it perfectly centered. He turned down the end two inches from 3/4 to approximately 9/16. Ended up with that two inches being almost perfectly round. Cut the shaft off an inch and 3/4's past the turned down section so when the turned down section was slid up inside the original 32 steering shaft I still had the inch and 3/4 section of DD protruding from the end of the stock shaft. That should leave me plenty of DD to attach a universal joint an still have enough room to tack the DD to the stock shaft once I get every thing lined up. While the shaft on the steering box is splined I can't rotate the universal on that end in order to line up everything because the splined shaft protruding from the box has a flat spot from the factory necessitating that universal which slides over it has to have the set screw dead center above the flat spot. So, as mentioned previously, I have to line up everything with the tires straight ahead and the steering wheel positioned where I want it by rotating the cut down DD shaft inside the steering shaft and then tack it, disassemble, finish weld the DD to the end of the steering shaft and then, using the hole in the outer shaft as my guide drill on through the cut down DD and pin it and then reassemble the whole set up. A lot of work but I wanted that original column and wheel.
Finally got back on the coupe. Will try to stay with it for the next month or two in hopes of having it on the road this Summer. You can see where the initial DD shaft comes through the motor mount then is held stationary by a the clevis attached to a 1/4" plate welded to the frame. View of the 2nd DD shaft which goes to the steering shaft. Note the DD end we turned down to slide up in the shaft. Welded to the shaft. There is a collar at the bottom of the shaft to keep the shaft from slipping back up the column. There is a Teflon washer between the collar and the column end cover I made from the freeze plug View of the plate made and welded to the column to keep the column in place, bolted to the floorboard. The white strip below the plate is a piece of masking tape marking where the hole for the brake pedal will have to be cut. Bigger picture of the column and attachment to the bottom of the dash. The steering wheel is repaired and painted by not mounted yet so I will have additional room to work on the under dash wiring
Having a little trouble working through the engine wiring. I am using an EZ kit. I ditched the original distributor, coil, ballast set up for an HEI. As noted above I have an original column, so no GM connectors on it. Will be adding an after market turn signal set up. I can use either a GM or a Mopar alternator. I have called EZ's tech line for help but no answer and no return call from messages left. Anyone done this? Diagram's? Help? I did a search and have posted a separate thread request for help. Thanks
I'll dig through my notes. I did a Hot Rod Wires setup with HEI. I think I have the final diagram that worked that may help.
I think this was what I used. I had some issues that I go into in my build thread where the starter remained energized and I believe this was my solution.
Idahorocks, thanks for the reply. I have an aftermarket HEI, uses a GM module, so no need for coil. I am assuming that the thin gray lines between the Ballast, coil, ECU, and HEI simply indicate that all of those are internal to the HEI so, in effect, you can eliminate all, save for the HEI from the diagram. Heavy (12 guage) red and purple from Fuse block to starter solenoid. Purple, pink, orange, brown, red(2) from fuse block to ignition. Red from fuse block to GM alternator. Pink from fuse block to HEI. Also, tach wire from fuse block to HEI (not shown). Am I correct? Am I missing something?
I'm using a Mopar HEI setup so I guess it has a different setup than the GM module. The Mopar HEI has a separate coil and ballast resistor outside the ECU. Also included a remote solenoid. Otherwise the ignition wiring is just as you wrote. My tach lead comes from the coil.
What specific HEI kit did you get? I've seen lots of GM module wiring diagrams with coils. Then there is the DUI setup with everything on the cap.
It has been awhile since I posted any progress reports. A retired body man who helps me from time to time is nearing 80 and the reality is we have a limited time to get some of the two person work done on the 50 Ford and 49 Buick sedanette projects that are also in my shop. Finally at a point on those builds that I can get back to the wiring and other necessary stuff to finish out the 33 coupe. Hopefully will post some pictures of progress.
Forgot that I had not posted pictures of the steering wheel after restoring it. If you look at post 156, the third photo, you can see the cracks in all three spokes at the hub. Turned out pretty good after some JB weld, body filler and LOTS of sanding. I haven't installed it yet to give me more room while wiring under the dash
Will be at Bowling Green the next few days for the nostalgia drags if anyone wants to discuss this loooooong project. Look for a primered 49 chevy 2-door with red scallops and two guys with beer in their hand.
OK, so I have been distracted for awhile. Here is why. I have had this 49 Sedanette for over 20 years. It always took a back seat to other projects including the 33 coupe. Oh, I would work on it from time to time and years ago, when my friends Mike and Michelle were starting RoderRestorations (here on HAMB), Mike did quite a bit of body work on it. Sat in my current shop for 12 years. So, I'm at an age now where the window is beginning to close and, Max, a retired Body and Fender guy, even older than me who helps me occasionally, suggested we get going on this project before neither one of us can do it anymore. So, And yes, that is a Big Block Buick. So that is my excuse for the last six months. I will provide more info on the Buick build on a separate thread sometime over the next month, but now it's time to get back on the coupe and try to get it running for this Summer.
Back on the 33. Readers might remember that I purchased the 33 from a family who's Dad had died. My understanding was that he did the previous restoration. Some of it was excellent but some, like the taillights were not. I couldn't understand why the Dodge logo in the taillights were upside down. The Dodge lens holes for the retaining screws are offset and the brackets in the buckets were offset the opposite way so the lens had to be mounted upside down. And when I took them apart I also discovered that someone apparently thought you needed a separate wire and light for the taillight, the brakes and the turn signals. As you can see (pictures didn't post in this reply---look at the next segment) in the bucket there were two bulbs, one dual filament and one single filament with their sockets held into what might be the original sockets with hose clamps. I also found both buckets had slots for the license plate light lens and one of them had been covered with a black plastic. Both were mounted upside down however. Since I only need one license, I had one too many license lens slots. I think the reason they had been mounted upside down was to get the hole in the bottom of the bucket to match the hole in the fender bracket. This meant that I would have to re-drill the bulb socket hole when I turned the bucket over to get light on the license. I had looked for over a year for some buckets that would allow me to use the Dodge lenses, but to no avail. So I figured I would just redo the ones I had. I drilled out the rivets that held the L shaped brackets to the buckets, repositioned them, drilled new holes and steel riveted them so the lenses could now be right side up. Then I filled the old rivet holes. Next, I needed to move the holes in the back of the buckets and fill one of the slots that held a lens for the license plate lighting. I used steel washers to fill the existing socket holes and cut a piece of 18 gage to use as a filler for one of the license lens holes.
You can see the patches here. Cutting the patch for the license lens was a little tricky since it had to be both rounded and tapered back. I put a piece of 2" masking tape over the hole, cut it out at the perimeters with a razor blade then stuck the cut portion of the masking tape to some 18 gage to use as my pattern . It allowed for both the curve and the taper. Welded the patches in and drilled new socket holes. A little sanding, some filler and paint and the buckets are ready to go
Working from the back end forward. I need to make some brackets to hold hidden back up lights under the rear roll pan and one to hold an interior light in the trunk above where the battery and space for a tool box will be hidden behind a false panel. Then the rear wiring will be complete. But first I thought I better put some sound deadener in. The PO had glued 1/2" foam rubber on the inside of the rear panels. I had pulled it off but it left a lot of the glue and foam residue. Four ought steel wool, scotch brite, scraper and adhesive remover and a lot of time left me with a clean panel. There have been several discussions on HAMB about what to use for sound deadener/insulation. I have used Peel and Seal on floor boards before and never had a problem with it coming loose or a tar smell, but it is questionable when it comes to vertical or overhead surfaces. On the other hand Dynamat is pretty expensive. A hot rod buddy of mine who was a "Pipe Wrapper" for 30 years (commercial heat ducts) introduced me to a product they used. His son took over the business and he orders me a roll every so often. Note: As it says on the package its 3' wide and 36' long so, while somewhat costly it goes a long way. IT IS ESSENTIALLY THE SAME STUFF AS DYNAMAT. If you want even more insulation you can also get a closed cell rubber of the same width and a commercial glue that will bind it to the foil which really ups the R factor. I've used it also. First I made a paper pattern, leaving some excess on the edges and transferred it to the foil. The product, like Dynamat has a paper backing which you have to pull away when you attach it. It was cool in my shop so the material behind the foil wasn't overly sticky when I pulled the paper backing away. That allowed me to maneuver the material into position. Then I used a tiny space heater to warm it up and really activate the sticky backside. A heat gun or hair dryer would also work. While I was doing the trunk panels my friend Max removed the door panels. Luckily the PO had not put foam rubber there and the panels were clean so we cut some pieces for that area. We re-installed the door panels and I will finish the trunk insulating this week. I will wait to do the floor boards until I am done with the under dash wiring so I don't tear it.
The Jalopy Journal
