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Hot Rods Can I lead this or a Better Idea?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by fasttime, Mar 3, 2015.

  1. fasttime
    Joined: May 20, 2014
    Posts: 56

    fasttime

    Yes, I would like to make my own body line. The joining of the 28 A cab to the 30-31 cab back is why the lines do not match.
     
  2. I think Vicky was saying that if you moved the rear panel up so the bottoms of the body lines matched then you would have the top edge too high and that you could pie cut out a section to lower it and make it line up. Too late now, but can you cut the bottom section out of the rear portion? I think it would look better with the transision on the rear area than the door area. Hope all that came out right!
     
  3. Hey man, I welded 34 Chevy coupe quarters onto a 36 ford pickup cab. So I ain't ever going to buy into "thats why lines don't match" but that's not the point.

    The point of taking your time and getting it right has passed, so now its just a matter of covering it up and smoothing it out. Now isn't the time to worry about a filler failure, again that time has passed. Leading it would be the best solution by far, but that process is time consuming if there's a learning curve and expensive. Big build ups are harder to keep from running down.

    Prep it well, use quality filler, and mix it in the right ratios and hope for the best. Pin holes in the welds will kill it so make sure you dress and seal up the back side.

    That is unless you want to revisit that stage and cut it and refit it to "within reason" and weld it back in.
     
  4. fasttime
    Joined: May 20, 2014
    Posts: 56

    fasttime

    Thanks 31vicky for the advice, and the dressing down. I can move the body so it would be flat, if that would help? I would like to try lead to see if I can, but plastic mud is cheaper. I took the easy way out on welding in the back by following the top of the panel, the charactor was close enoungh to blend......or so I thought.
     
  5. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,756

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    Go ahead and use your favorite plastic filler, it will work fine. Just be sure the underlying surface is CLEAN with no flux, slag or rust and no pin holes. Grind the weld down but don't over grind it. Then sandblast or clean good with a wire brush in an electric drill or 3M disc. Hold the trouble light right next to the weld, get your eyes right down there and search out any holes or slag.

    Build up with filler all you want and sculpture the lines with a speed board. Round off any exposed edges (top or door edge). Any ding that will hurt the filler, will chip the paint anyway so what have you got to lose?

    To all you critics who know how to do the job properly, so do I but I don't see either of us out in the garage working on his car. He is going to have to do the best he can with what he has to work with. Believe me, plastic filler will work fine in this application if he uses quality filler and prepares the surface carefully.
     
  6. Unkl Ian
    Joined: Mar 29, 2001
    Posts: 13,509

    Unkl Ian

    Your best chances of success will be with plastic filler.
     

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