Technical Ford buggy spring suspension at modern highway speeds

Fuck it looks like it's doing a buck 20 right there

 

100 plus going in a straight line is fine but I am concerned with going 70 to 80 while changing lanes on the highway along with other vehicles close by,I have driven my 37 about 35 miles on a 4 lane highway a few times and it is alot better then when it was at stock height and original rear end but could use some more refinement to get it where I would feel more comfortable. More power in the 37 would help since I have the 235 running slower then where it was designed to be so maybe a more modern six would help a bunch and be more responsive.

 

As others have suggested, choosing the correct components and making sure everything is in great shape is the starting point. A stout antiroll bar, and a Panhard bar (aka track bar), a set of good shocks, radial tires and correct alignment and it will drive quite well at the speeds you wish to travel.

In my opinion and experience, paying particular attention to anti-roll can't be emphasized enough when dealing with top heavy buggy sprung vehicles.

Ray

 

I've been driving my hemi powered '34 sedan with a buggy spring in the front and semi-eliptics ('63 Ramcharger master leaves with '68 GTX spring leaves) since '71 and prior to that with the stock rear buggy spring.

I drive 1000 miles, each way, every August to the Nats in Louisville and I run at or slightly above the speed limit all the way and I've never had any handling issues.

In 50 years, I've never had any issues with the buggy spring suspension in the car.

 

It looks like I will give the original suspension a try when the project happens,I think a front sway bar might help on the 37 and maybe a new set of front springs since they are the only parts that are original.

 

31Vicky-, 'Xackly what I was thinking...
...several of our interstate speed limits are 80mph here...
My experience is that buggy sprung cars, if set up and adjusted well, handle "differently", but not "worse"

 

I had a 40 in the 80s with buggy spring & dropped I beam in the front and semi-eliptic leaf springs in the rear. All out of the Chassis Engineering catalogue except the front panhard rod ( home made). I used the anti-roll bars both front and rear. it worked so good I'm doing it again on my avatar.

 

My '41 ford Fordor has buggy sprung front. No Cadillac ride, cross winds do effect it, short wheel base is somewhat choppy on some roads but basically is pretty smooth and is a controlled ride

 

Maybe your 37 needs anti-sway bars, they made a world of difference on my 7' tall 36 IHC panel truck.

 

My '37 truck has stock springs front and rear, minus a few leafs in each pack. Straight axle, with disk brakes up front, rear '79 TA axle with drum brakes. Teflon liner between each leaf spring, modern tube shocks, and front heavy duty sway bar. Steering box is from a '41 Chevy truck, tie-rods and draglink ends are modern sealed ball and socket type, not the spring loaded ones. I can drive all day at 70 mph with out problems. I wouldn't want to make any quick moves, but could if I need to, but then I wouldn't want to in my '03 Toyota either at 70 mph. Engine is a 250 inline six with T350 trans, 3.08 gear ratio.

If you run the correct shocks and springs for the actual weight of the finished car, you won't have any trouble with ride. Four corner leaf springs are never going to handle like a modern car. I doubt even after you swapped the front over to independent suspension, it would be much better. Adding front and rear sway bars will make your '37 feel much safer, it sure made my truck better and it only has the front one installed. Old cars are top heavy on a narrow width track, so quick sudden moves tend to be scary, thats the fun of driving old cars or trucks, they keep you alert!

Joe

 

Since I started driving I always had late 50s to mid 60s vehicles and I will have to admit they have spoiled me on the way they drive on the highway,the first attempt to drive my 37 down a highway after getting it on the road was a big disapointment since I had no clue on the way prewar vehicles drove. Phase I of the suspension modifications were a dropped axle with disc brakes and lowered 3 inches in the rear and 2 leaves out of the front springs,41-6 steering and a T-5 behind the 235 and a 8 inch with 3.55 gears and did ok but was no way close to my 53 Olds I had at the time the 37 hit the road. I am going to look into sway bars and possibly a newer six that will run good in lower rpms,the 235 was designed to run with 4.10 gears screaming all the way and has been a battle to get to run good running a bit slower and can definately use more power when in o/d going around 65 on the highway. I am also used to V8s and probably expecting more out of the 235 then is possible.

 

Caster ,caster , and then a little more caster, she'll run straight !

 

Had a 1939 Ford and now a 1946- both I-beam- buggy spring- no problem ever with highway speeds-

 

Jeff, I've been through Dayton several times before and you'll probably need about 12" of travel, a 10" lift kit, 11" brakes that'll stop on a dime with 9 cents change and steering like a go-kart just to get down I-75 and RT35 at any given time, especially rush hour! lol Don't forget a roll bar and helmet too!

I can see your concern.

 

My dad had a 40 Ford and said it had too much power for the chassis, that said I also heard him talk about driving it 90 MPH on the gravel road between Lyman and Griswold Iowa. At the time the car was just a few years old so I am sure the steering and suspension were fairly tight. My 38 Chevy with stock front axle (no drop or lowering blocks) felt fine at 100 MPH, now that it's lowered with a MII front suspension it really doesn't drive much different. No it won't drive like a C6 Corvette but my F150 doesn't' either.

 

I do believe your buddy from Dayton is correct. My roadster recently completed a 4000+mile trip to Cal. and return at 70-75 mph with no trouble other than some shitty highways in Cal. and Texas. It is still known as a "buggy ride", but costwise, it is WAY less expensive to keep it, and isn't that bad. It is not a Caddie but it is a hotrod. A GM 525 steering box(slightly heavier than a Vega, same mount), bolt-in needle bearing kingpins in spindles, and a panhard bar will sharpen up Henry's archaic design. You don't need heavy bucks to have a nice "ride". It is up to you.

 

An anti-sway bar on each end will arrest that lean common to buggy-sprung rods, and quality shocks round out the setup. Don't forget the age of the design and the high center of gravity. IT AIN'T NO PORSCHE !

 

A fine tuned front geometry, and closely selected shocks for damping, all help create "driver" quality.
The roundy-round cars called Modifieds handle better than a typ. late model sedan. Sway bars, panhards & roll center are part of this science. Nice feedback through the steering, when you've got it right.

 

I was just going to ask you OHIO boys about the water up there. Maybe it's the "buckeye" in y'alls diets. Maaybe ?