It does start with a P23. Just not sure if its a cranbrook, or cambridge. I have no idea. I need to wire wheel the area better for the rest of the numbers. I looked real quick tonight. .
I have no idea. Here's a photo of the column. No factory handle. I planned on adding an aftermarket set up. .
The lid is the filter. If you look at the bottom of it you will see a bunch of hair or coir stuffing. That is the filter medium. If it is choked with dirt and coated with grease, soak it in a pan of kerosene or Varsol and rinse it out, then wet with 50 oil. The base should be filled to the line with 50 oil. Do not use too light oil, it will slosh around and get ****ed into the engine on bumpy roads.
Oh okay! Now I feel like a knucklehead. ugh!! I will take that apart and clean it up. I can grab some 50W for it.
hey Rusty, did I miss something, "what guys' told him to convert to 12 volts. I am with you on if he can stay 6 volt + grnd, might be the best way to go. Any 7 wire signal stat will fix his signal light issues, and is fairly simple to install. I think it best he take this piece meal, and get this motor running, and tunes with the charging system in good working order. The oil bath breather as you mention needs a lid, it will be good as long as the bottom isn't leaking oil all over, that housing can be changed to paper element if need be. You and I and others can coach him along, I would recommend a compression test and vacuum reading at some point too, yes that idle can come way down if this engine has good internals, ignition and does not have vacuum leaks....
The air filter is a unique and efficient design. It is made so the air gets ****ed straight down where it hits the oil then makes a sharp turn. This means most of the dirt hits the oil and gets stuck. The air goes up thru the filter where any remaining dirt gets stuck on the oily fibres. Eventually the base gets full of dirt, and the filter gets coated, but that is ok. You can clean it up, refill with oil and it is good as new. The filter will last the life of the car and a quart of 50 weight oil will last about 50,000 miles. On the clean paved roads of today it takes at least 10000 miles for the base to get full of dirt. Just take the lid off and check it at tuneup time, top up the oil, and don't worry until the base is over 1/2 dirt and less than 1/2 oil.
Will do for sure with the air filter. I need to get a oil filter also, and figure on what oil to use in this older engine. High zinc I suppose. Weight...etc. Flat Six......Compression test!!! Don't scare me like that!!! Yikes!!...Just kidding I know. I hope it has good compression. I am having high hopes on this car.
I agree, if it was my car I would take it one step at a time and not go tearing things apart unless I absolutely had to. As long as you have decent compression, you can tune that motor to start instantly idle down smooth and quiet and give you 18 - 20 miles per gallon on the cheapest regular gas. And have enough power to take you anyplace you want to go.
My buddy I bought it off of, did say when he went to buy it.."if this all makes sense", said the motor started right up, without pumping the heck out of the gas pedal. And just sat there and idled. Kind of high though. I wasn't sure when done right, if these older rides, were suitable for highway driving to go to some cruises that are about an hour away or so.
Your motor does not have a filter. They were an add on or extra cost option. If you had one it would be at the back of the motor, on the left side, above the starter and behind the distributor. They are another thing that turns up at flea markets and is a good thing to have. With no filter it would be a good plan to take the oil pan off and s****e out the dirt and sludge if you can. If not, you will need to change the oil frequently. They recommended every 1000 miles with no filter. The Frantz type of TP filter is excellent, and avoids the difficulty of finding suitable filters.
****! I just seen that. I have not been able to get on the car, and inspect things until today. Maybe I can find one, and it just bolts on? An original? Can the oil pan be removed without a lot of trouble? I don't have a cherry picker to lift it. I would like to clean it out, and also clean the pick up screen if it has one. I seen this on ebay...was wondering... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1934-1951-N...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a4a3841fc&vxp=mtr
It sounds like the motor is in good shape to start so easily. It probably just needs a tuneup. If that car is in good shape you should be able to drive it anywhere in North America. A 1 hour drive no problem. It would be best to keep the speed down to 55 or 60 in the interest of longevity and reliability. The stock gearing is pretty low, not really made for today's hiways. There are certain makes that are not suited to high speed use, like the Chevs that had poured babbitt bearings and "spit and hope" oiling. You are asking for trouble if you take one of those over 50 or 55. But the Plymouth has modern insert bearings and full pressure lubrication. However it is a long stroke engine and is geared low so you should take it easy. I know of guys who have installed overdrive, or 5 speed trans, or higher geared rear axle and they drive 70 all the time. I would suggest until you get it fixed up don't worry about it. Take a few trips and see how you like it. If 60 MPH is too boring or takes too long come back and we will talk.
Just make sure your compression tester does not screw into the sparkplug holes too much deeper than the sparkplugs, or a valve will hammer into it, 100-110 would be very good, even 90-100 would be okay, just as long as they are not all outta wack from each other. Sparkplugs, - Champion J 8C - Autolite 295 -AC 44 -NGK BS6 don't get hung up on zinc, any decent oil will be much better than anything it had in it's early life.Full pressure lubrication, bearing insets, and good oil pressure 30-40 psi at idle 50-60 at speed driving. Once you have it running well, you can always drop the oil pan and clean it out, along with the valve cover side gaskets. You don't need lead additives, these engines came from the factory with hardened exhaust valve seats. If she runs hot a good cooling system flushing, these engines have water distribution tubes in the block behind the water pump, sometimes they need to be pulled and cleaned out, sometimes not. Brakes can be tricky, they are Lockheed hydraulic brakes with dual wheel cyls up front, they can be tricky to set-up at first, but can be very good brakes when done right. Front ends are independent suspension since the early 40s, far ahead of the others, and handle and steer well when in good working condition, will talk more. Go visit the site I mentioned, lot of 40s and 50s Mopar owners on their willing to help,and some may be nearby. I know one the greatest Flathead Mopar performance Gurus George Asches Venus Pa, he rebuilds and sells R 10 overdrive transmissions and makes dual and triple carb intakes and split exhaust for these engines, a truly knowledgeable man.
Wow! That is a rare and expensive filter. You don't need that kind for your car. They used different filters. The cheapest kind was the one in the ad you linked. They were supposed to be thrown away and replaced every 5000 miles. They haven't made them for years, that is why they are so expensive. A restorer will pay that just to have the exact right filter for his car. There was a more expensive option that looked the same but had a removable lid. You could take the lid off, throw away the cartridge and put in a new one. The cartridges were cheaper than a whole filter so you saved money in the long run. That is the kind you want. They never wear out, you just put in a new cartridge. The cartridge filters are still available, they are used in tractors and in Mercedes and a few other cars, also industrial engines, fork lifts etc. The Frantz company makes a similar filter that takes a roll of toilet paper for a filter element. Before you laugh or barf they have been around for more than 50 years and they work excellent. The oil goes thru the roll lengthways for depth filtration between the layers of paper. They are expensive, nearly $100 but used ones turn up all the time. You can buy a remote filter with a spin on element but they are not as good for your car.. They are for full flow, your engine has partial flow or byp*** filtering.
I honeslty figure the gearing would be low. I think the motor has about 94HP or so. Truthfully, when on the highway, in my wifes new car. I seldom do 65mph, I cruise at 55mph. I must be getting older. My hot rod days are over..
The pan is not hard to take off unless the crossmember is in the road, not sure if it is on your car. If so you will have to jack the engine up about 3 inches for clearance, after removing the motor mount bolts. If this is not possible just do the frequent oil changes. The stock type oil filter bolts on the side of the engine and has 2 little pipes about the size of a pencil that go into the oil gallery in the block. Your engine should have 2 plugs, except 1 is where the oil pressure sender goes. They have a T fitting for that. Here is a good page of information. The first picture shows a motor like yours, with the filter on it.
Thank you for all the knowledge! I seen on rock auto while looking at parts, the dual front wheel cylinders. Ugh!! Theres no brakes right now. I was told the master is bad, but I still have to check for myself. I will run a compression test, and be cautious as you explained for sure! Here's where I found the master... .
I will have to look around. I want a filter for sure. I used to put them on my air cooled Beetles. They had a screen type filter that I didn't like.
I will jack it up, and take a look. I would like to remove the pan if possible. It would make me feel better to clean it all out. I seen some pics on google of the engine. I definitely want an oil filter for sure though!
Took a quick look at Ebay and they want ridiculous prices for their filters. I must have a million $$$ worth of parts at that rate. They want more for a Frantz than they cost brand new ha ha
Rusty, I was looking around online. I can't seem to find the complete set up for an oil filter, since mine didn't have one originally. Do you have a certain place you use? I wanted to try and find the complete set up, where I will have all the fittings. Etc. If that makes any sense...
Sure, when you get time, theres no rush. I would like to just add a filter when I can. I won't be driving it soon. I was hoping to find a whole complete set up, and be able to filter the dirt. I don't like the idea of no filter. I guess it ran 60 years without one, but still bothers me. Thank you, whenever you get extra time, let me know. Thanks Rusty!
I installed my new 6 Volt Optima battery. I also put all new 1 gauge cables on. Both battery cables on, and also a new one from the starter to the solenoid. I also put a new coil on. Is this 6V coil okay? It says No external resistor required...Is that okay??? The 12V one I removed said "External resistor required". Obviously the 12V the guy threw on because thats all he had around. This guy who had the car before, really played with the wiring. He had the +side of the coil going to ignition, and the -side going to the dizzy? Isn't this backwards as you stated? Shouldn't the coil +side be connected to the distributor and the - side connected to the ignition or power side for a 6V positive ground system? The odd things is, I have a video clip of this car running, wired to a 12V battery negative ground and I think wired wrong to the dizzy, before I bought it?? Here's the coil I bought.
Yup, Tony the engine will still run with coil in reverse polarity. I have read your posts and things are coming along well. your new coil is designed for 6 volts, without reduction, so no ballast is required with 6 volt usage. If you ever convert to 12 volt , you can use this coil too, but with a ballast resistor in the circuit, but most likely that is not your goal. As your car is positive earth, the wire from the dizzy should be connected to the positive terminal on your new coil. Now lets get this engine started, waiting in anticipation for your first start of this old beast...
I am hoping to get it started tomorrow, and of course a film clip from my own camera to show it off. This block on the firewall in the photo, "I don't know what it is"? He has a green wire spliced onto it, and goes into the ignition switch, I think. I have to look closer. He spliced it on, and it appears the red wire that it is spliced on with, goes t the coil. I will slice the harness open tomorrow, and will know for sure. I am wondering if he has the universal ignition switch wired wrong. I looked under the dash, and seen a few factory wires snipped off. And zip ties up. He liked zip ties! Here's a photo of the green wire, hooked to the box, that I don't know what it is. I am trying to learn!
horn relay, it is a must with this starter circuit. With your posts concerning your ignition switch and starting mode. make sure your solenoid and wiring is in order for starting and running, and you should be good to go....
Slowly following along, lots of good info here. Good luck in getting your car up & running. I bought a 52 Dodge Coronet with the 230 flatty just over a year ago. Still 6volt positive ground. It's definitely been a learning experience!
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