I've got a 1959 Chevy Wagon and I just killed the 3 speed overdrive. I found a replacement and discovered the PO hadn't wired it correctly. Basically the governor wasn't hooked up at all and in order for it to function the handle had to be pushed in and a toggle switch flipped. We'll its now wired correctly and works like a charm. Drops into OD at 30 and feewheels like clockwork. Well the last piece to the puzzle is the kickdown switch. Its in place but I'm afraid to run the wire to my HEI in fear of Frying it. Has anyone made this work with HEI and if so do I hook it to the Tach lead? Any help would be much appreciated.
Ask Blueskies. I believe he dealt with that exact situation. His is Mopar, but I'll bet the solution is the same.
Just bear in mind that the PO might have liked the way he wired his (That's how I'm doing mine on the advice of another HAMBer)
The way it was wired didn't utilize the governor at all. Just a hot wire to the Selenoid. Every time you wanted OD you had to push the handle in and when you wanted out you had to shut off the switch and pull the handle out. Now I just leave the handle in all the time and at 30 OD kicks in and drops out automatically. I'd love to stomp down and kick it out of OD but Sounds like that isn't possible with HEI.
I don't know jack about the wiring on a '59 chevy, but I think all the borg warner od's were about the same... Here's how the early 50's mopar borg warner od's were wired: I'm running a GM mini HEI on my '50 Plymouth flathead six, along with a '55 Dodge Borg Warner R10 overdrive. I had mine wired just like the above diagram, but found that when I hit the kickdown switch, it would just blow the fuse to the HEI, and I'd be dead in the water. The factory setup is designed to momentarily ground the ignition, to take the torque off of the transmission long enough for the solenoid pawl to release. This worked as a full throttle kickdown, as the switch was mounted on the throttle linkage, and was kind of like a modern automatic transmission kickdown. Since my ignition wiring didn't like being grounded, I decided to eliminate the circuit from the kickdown switch that grounds the ignition, and simply release the throttle while pressing the switch. I mounted a small switch on the end of the shifter handle instead of on the throttle linkage. It feels just like downshifting a manual transmission by releasing the throttle, pressing the ****on, and mashing the throttle again. Another benefit to this method, is it allows the driver to split-shift up through all of the forward gears. Since I don't generally go fast enough in first to reach the cut in speed of the governor, I have five forward gears: 1st direct, 2nd direct, 2nd od, 3rd direct, 3rd od. Everything else about the overdrive works automatically, just like it is supposed to. The only time I pull the lockout cable is when decending steep grades, when I want compression braking instead of the freewheeling. The overdrive cuts in and out automatically, etc. You can read more about what I did with lots of pics at http:www.50plymouth.com. Click on the transmission page. Pete
Sounds like I could pull that off. Mine works the same. I go from first to second and then let off the gas and it drops into 2nd od and then I shift into third od. I turn about 3000 rpm at 60 when not in OD. Not sure the gearing of my rear but its gotta be pretty low. First is like my 73 scout crawler. I was just hoping to have the throttle smashing kickdown. It works pretty well. The governor seemed to be hanging up on saturday but it was really really cold here. Is that possible that the cold could cause it to shift at a higher rpm. Once I ran it for awhile it seemed to work fine. Also I used gear oil in the ****** and I heard something about 40wt? Also does the ****** oil the OD? I put some gear lube in both just to be safe.
I have 90wt gear oil in mine. The OD and transmission share fluid, but they each have their own fill and drain holes. Pete
The HEI won't support an O/D kickdown, but the Pertronix Ignitor will. If you really want the full throttle kickdown, swap out your HEI for a Pertronix. Dan
Thanks Dan, I'm a freak about every bulb and every little thing working even if I don't use it. In these Chevies the far left guage pod has a light for the alternator and oil light and has an empty third lens. I thought I'd mount a Blue LED behind the lens and wire it as an OD indicator. Then find someone with a steady hand and have them write OVERDRIVE on the lens. Anyone tried this?
Ok, kicking this thread to the top as I have this same situation. I've finally got my BW overdrive unit into my Willys p/u. I am running a Buick V6 with the stock HEI and need to wire up the kick down switch. Anyone figure this out without going to the Petronix? I was told by these folks to be on the "distributor side" of the wiring. http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/overdrive_parts.php I'm ***uming tapping into the "lower harness" positive and negative. Any help is appreciated.
The kickdown works by shorting the ignition circuit to ground via the kickdown relay for about 1/2 revolution of the motor, unloading the transmission and allowing the solenoid to 'shift'. The points ignitions in use when these were popular weren't fused, so you could do this (no fuse to blow). If you have an electronic ignition and a fuse in the power supply line, simply make sure the fuse is after the relay, between the relay and the distributor. If you still want short-circuit protection on the ignition feed to the relay, use a fusible link instead of a fuse; it can take the short-duration 'short' without blowing as long as it's sized right.
I couldn't get mine to work without blowing the fuse, so I went with a switch mounted to the shifter instead. I was much happier with the way it worked, since I didn't have to have a full throttle kick to shift out of overdrive. You can read more about what I did with lots of pics at http:www.50plymouth.com. Click on the transmission page. Pete
Thanks guys. I think I will still use the floor switch to remove the ground from the governor to allow it to drop down to direct and use a push ****on for the solenoid. Or I'll try to just let up on the gas and see if that works.
Guys, I left the kickdown situation for another day. I was getting a ground from the governor all the time. decided to remove the top cap to it to see whats wrong. This is what it should look like, photo courtesy of van pelt/Hot Rod. I'm going to try to straighten out the parts and get a new spring.
Well, I tried to save the parts, but they are pretty bent. Anyone have the end cap they aren't using?
DJForresta, You can get dry transfer rub on letters in all different sizes at Office Depot. I've used them before, would definitely look more uniform than trying to hand write them. Not very expensive either, used to be $3.00 or so (but I used to get them at Walmart), but I think the last set I got was around $6.00 from Office Depot (because I couldn't find them at Walmart anymore). Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
To use with HEI you need to use the wire that goes to the distributor to operate a relay to shut off the main power to the HEI. When the trans drops out of OD the relay will drop out and will repower the HEI the same as as happened with the old distributor.
It works! It works! Amazing stuff happens when you wire it up right! Thanks to George Asche that gave me BW overdrive advice. He's 83 and still working, doesn't own a computer and been working on DeSotos and Chryslers since the 50's! He's probably met Tech! 35-40mph @2100rpm before and now 55mph@2100rpm! Supposed to give a much needed 30% drop. Just waiting for a replacement governor cap from Herm The Overdrive Guy. I used a remote starter to provide the temp ground the governor's function.
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