Hey guys I'm working on my dual MC swap and I am considering switching over to a mechanical brake light switch instead of the pressure activated switch, for better reliability. Looking up under the dash, it appeared that I would maybe have to take the pedals out and drill a hole in the pedal "resting" bracket in order to mount the switch. Otherwise I would need to make a custom bracket. I guess I'm not real crazy about either option. Anybody have pics of a simple way to mount one? Also any recommendations on what switch to buy would also be appreciated. Thanks!
I bought a low pressure switch at one of the big car shows, possibly GNRS, never has a problem with it. It just screwed in where the stock one went. I think it might have been from Dennis Carpenter.
Paul, that's a smart idea there I like it. Is that switch out of a particular vehicle or is it just a generic one? Also, most of the switches I'm seeing say they are "normally closed" which means the light circuit would open when the pedal is depressed. Wouldn't that mean the brake lights would be on all the time while the circuit is closed, and then they would turn off when the pedal is depressed and the circuit is "open"? I feel like I am misunderstanding something.
You're thinking backwards on this. I think by "normal state", they mean in a free state (as in your hand)the circuit is closed. When you depress the pedal it would no longer be open as releasing the ****on to it's normal state closes the circuit. ***uming I've got the meaning of open and closed straight..(open is when it is not a complete circuit), then what I think they are telling you is the switch is normally closed when the ****on is not depressed. That would be correct...pushing in the ****on, as it does when the pedal is at rest,would open the circuit I used what was refered to as a "GM style" on mine (similar to Paul's), drilled a hole in the pedal's bracket up top next to the rubber bumper. Almost imposible to adjust when it's in there..no room for wrenches. A bracket like Paul used would give you better access. Because of signals required by my engine's computer, I am actually using two brake switches...both types, just one is actually controling the brake lights though.
Here's a pic of mine. I drilled the pedal bracket and installed the adjustable switch. Duralast part #DR496. I forget the application but the install was real easy.
BTW, be careful tightening the nuts on those plastic switches..too tight and they'll snap. Ask me how I know. Choppd top...your Thoreau quote always reminds me of the many summer days I spent at Walden Pond, in Concord, M***. as a kid.
Has anyone installed one of these from Ron Francis. This is the one I bought. I have not installed it yet but I am starting the electrical soon
Thanks for the help guys! I think I'll be able to make something work now. Welderdave, I think that style of switch is designed for older, floor-mounted pedals like you would find in cars from the 30's-40's. I wouldn't recommend trying to use that one
WelderDave, that is the switch I installed on my 1954 F-100. I kept everything under the floor and I had 2 of the push ****on type switches fail. Absolutely no problem with the switch you are referring to. Seems to have infinite adjustments. Hope this helps, Steve
Ron Francis quality is top notch. If you can figure out how/where to mount it it should be very dependable.
Agreed! You have to be VERY careful when you tighten the nuts and you also have to be careful on how deep you set it initially too, ask me how I know! It seems all of the switches I looked at when I was doing this were all plastic so I figured it was a trade-off. This was the simplest design I could find and if memory serves me correctly, somebody here on the HAMB pointed me in the direction of it. Yeah, that quote has stuck with me for a long, long time. I had to use it few times on the wife whenever I'd drag home yet another crusty project! welderdave, those are good switches. If you can make it work and you already have it, go with it.
I have that switch and the tee fitting to install it but I read a bunch of stories from people saying that theirs went bad or the brake lights were delayed after installing it. I guess that convinced me to go with a mechanical one. but if I can't find one maybe I'll give the original hydraulic switch a shot and see how it goes
I'm running the hydraulic one in my CPP proportioning valve. The switch that came with it leaked right away, so I got one from NAPA. I am however leaving enough slack in the wires in case I want to run a mechanical switch on the pedal. I would just pop-rivet on a quick 'n dirty bracket somewhere convenient on the arm.
demon - he switch I got from American Autowire, Ron Francis has them too. I think its a generic switch so try a parts store. I dislike the hydraulic switches. While readily available, they do not come on the instant the brake pedal is depressed. Ive replaced the hydraulic ones in each of the three cars that I have just because of that reason. When the pedal is in the non-braking position, the plunger is depressed. This interrupts the circuit and they are off. When the pedal is depressed, the plunger comes out and the circuit is completed and the lights are on. QUOTE: Paul, that's a smart idea there I like it. Is that switch out of a particular vehicle or is it just a generic one?
Thanks for the help guys I picked up the mechanical switch shown in the above photo today at Autozone and started working on making the bracket. I'll post some pics when I'm done if I remember.
If you use low pressure brake switches the delay is negligible. No more than the delay on a mechanical switch, depending on how you have it adjusted. Why reinvent the egg?
The fact that all manufacturers went to mechanical switches is good enough reason to make the change. Just like alternators and voltmeters. QUOTE="rick55, post: 10915189, member: 90555"]If you use low pressure brake switches the delay is negligible. No more than the delay on a mechanical switch, depending on how you have it adjusted. Why reinvent the egg?[/QUOTE]
Ford used them up to 1964 and I never had a problem with any of them. When I'd change the master, I always changed the switch.
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