Technical Alignment San Diego

Maybe its a long t5 bearing? Its not that hard of a job to do. the ****** needs to just be back far enough to change out the throwout bearing. Ive done quite a few ******s with a floorjack and jackstands.

 

If the throw out is really the problem you might be able to fish a late model stamped steel arm in the bellhousing hole?... Never tried to do that however

 

Its going down starting tonight. I already have the car up and a plan in place to push the trans back and down a bit and then. I am I am going to take a few measurements on the thowout and I have a store holding a longer one for pickup on saturday as long as I can confirm the inside diameter will work based on the one I remove tonight.

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Almost have it out. That hex bolt is the hold up did not have the size. Four more bolts on the trans and eight on the cross member and she will be out.

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Sorry the pics are inverted but bangarang its out

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Picture of spacer between bellhousing and trans?

A little straight work but for piece of mind put clay or use marker.. Tape? ...To see how much splines of imput shaft are left to the disc when bolted together..

 

I will get you a full picture of the spacer monday. I ran up to LA found a shop that had the long throwout in stock picked it up looks sweet...Not sure I follow on what marking and counting you are suggesting I do I honestly did not even truly know how a clutch worked until this happened.

 

Just wanted to make sure the disc isn't running out of splines on the imput shaft

 

Do you mark them to see how much contact surface remains between them?

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Viva,

Hard to tell in the pics, but it doesn't look like your pressure plate is worth a ****. They have been known to "over center" if over rev'd. Were you on it or possibly missed a shift when it stopped disengaging? The diaphragm fingers look like they might be over centered in the pics. The fingers usually form a cone that sticks out like one in the picture below (which is a Ram clutch for a 1989 S-10). Now, they will flatten out a little as you tighten the pressure plate down, but yours don't look like they have nearly enough travel left. Are you stationed on 32nd street? If so, your not far from Southland Clutch in National City. You should go by there and show them the pics of your pressure plate installed, and quite possibly since your already there, you should just go ahead and take the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate with you so they can see it in person. In the mean time, I'd take the pressure plate loose, and see if the fingers come back out to their normal position.





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Here's the pic.

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With the flywheel off, check the back of the block for STEEL freeze plugs. NOW would be the time to replace them with BR***! NAPA in National City seems to have a good stock of them.

Ditto on Southland Clutch - good guys to deal with, known Tom there for 35+ years!

Good Luck, Tim

 

I see what you are saying about them not facing out. Almost all clutch pictures I see show them out and not flat like mine are. If they are stuck over center wouldnt that mean the clutch was stuck in the disengage position . Only reason I ask is because my clutch will not disengage. I was driving about 20mph in second gear when it stoped disengaging I simplify could not get it to disengage so I could down shift to stop so I was not on it at the time.... if I lossen the pressure plate will I need to use a clutch alignment tool when putting it back together?

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I'm not sure. I've never over centered one myself. I seem to remember something about them not releasing at speed, but I'm not sure. To me, something looks wrong with that pressure plate though, that's why I think you ought to take it (or at least some pics) by Southland. One other issue I've run into that I didn't think to mention is cross bar failure. My Chevy II has a Centerforce clutch in it (supposedly less pedal pressure in it, but it was still kinda strong), and the clutch fork has torn right where the arms weld to the tube. It still felt like it had decent pedal, because it was flexing the steel where it tore the tube, but it wasn't moving the clutch release fork at all. One more thing to check.



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So plan is stop by. Monday after work I am going to put the long throwout pictured below on the car. Slide the trans back in place and visually check the function of the clutch. Looking for pressure plate and clutch disc separtaion from flywheel. If I do not see the clutch disc move free of the flywheel or if I am unable to turn it I will back out the trans and remove bell houseing and clutch for further inspection I p*** through national city to and from work everyday so a trip to southerland should be no problem.

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Here is a pic of my new pressure plate (from Southland). The fingers look pretty flat like yours.

 

Yeah I believe that is why the long throwout is required like many of you suggested earlier. I think it is just alot of other clutch kits have a hive style clutch witch may work with the short throwout

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Any news yet? ;-)

 

Here is that pic a few days late.

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Yes so the long throwout is In the trans is bolted on. I had to double double work. When I originally took it out I had removed tention on the fork and pulled the fork off of the short throwout so I did reverse steps putting it back together however with the long throwout I could not simply slide the fork over the throwout because the angle had changed I need to put the throwout on the fork before I placed the shaft into the clutch. After I did that I also realized that before the pivot had been shimmed probably to adjust for the poor fork angle. I had to remove the shims to get the angle I needed. With the shim in it was applying to much pressure on the clutch in the resting position. I am now working on reinstalling the crossmember, driveshaft, parking break, shifter and adding fluid back to the Trans oh yeah i believe the long bearing has fixed the problem but I cannot be 100% just yet

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No dice. I could see the disc move away from the flywheel so I thought it was going to be gold but the clutch will still not disengage

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Maybe it's that spacer like 32 said... Maybe it's too thick..,, or is it too thin so the clutch plate can't fully disengage when you push the clutch in.

 

Well, that ****s. I think you need to remove the pressure plate and disc this time, and see exactly what's going on in there. Do you have a long set of feeler gauges? The one fact everyone seems to be missing here is this setup DID work (for however. short of time) with the short throw out bearing installed. Not saying it was right (or wrong), but it did engage and disengage, so logically something has to have changed. How long did it work? Have you called the shop that did the work and asked them if they have any ideas? It seems to me, if you can see the disc move away from the flywheel, it "should" be releasing. That leads means back to maybe the pressure plates no good (ie. Broken spring, finger, etc....). When you pull the pressure plate off and set it on the ground, all the fingers of the diaphragm should be level, if their not, it's junk......and you'll never get it to release! Also, "if" that's what's happened, you'll probably see a hot spot on the flywheel (and a corresponding one on the pressure plate surface) where the pressure plate was failing. One word of caution, if you remove the pressure plate, you're.going to need a clutch alignment tool to re-align the disc so you an reinstall the transmission. Personally, I've never had ANY luck with the cheap plastic ones the auto parts stores sell, but being a second generation four speed racer, there's ALWAYS been an extra input shaft (or six) laying around to use. ;-) I don't have a S-10 manual here at the house (might be one down at the shop, I'll look later), but I do have one for third and fourth gen camaros. I can't tell in the pics, but I ***ume your using a mechanical clutch linkage (not hydraulic) since your using the six cylinder bell housing? Strangely enough, the torque spec for the pressure plate bolts on a V-6 is listed at 15 ft-lbs, and for a V-8 it's 35 ft-lbs, and the flywheel to crankshaft bolts are 50 ft-lbs for a V-6, and 60 ft-lbs for a V-8. If it were me, I think I wod use the V-8 specs! ;-) 15 ft-lbs seems awful weak!


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Did you check the splines On the Imput shaft?...

Let me try to rephrase what I was trying to discribe my problem, again mine was a " no spacer issue" but who knows... As trans went in the imput ran out of splines so the disc bottomed out on the shaft and when the trans was bolted in and tight the disc had nowhere to go so it forced itself against the flywheel, so essentially always engaged on the flywheel side even though the clutch worked the disc was still wanting to turn with the flywheel

Also is it possible the pilot bearing snout is not trimmed and bottoming in the crank... Also creating this problem?

Try this... Back the bolts back out of your trans and shove 2 or 3 washers between trans and bellhousing as more spacers snug everything back together try it again...

 

If the washer trick yields no result , I'm afraid your clutch will have to come off and inspect, don't worry it's not voodoo, just takes some time you'll need to get a torque wrench to put it back together , you can get by with a harbor frieght clicker on sale for 9.99 should be a coupon somewhere

 

Last night was the last push for a few days due to Easter weekend. That time goes to my toddler. Next weeks is a wash due to a lot early starts and night ops to finish. It wont take me long to get it back out once I get back to it I learned alot about how my car is put together and what to loosen or tighten at what time. Honestly having the time of my life trouble shooting this with you guys.

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Great at***ude! ... Most of our knowledge comes from when things don't work and we have to figure out why... When things just fall into place is when we learn the least ... When you get this figured out you will have more knowledge about your swap than the guy who did it! Where are you located?

 

Is it possible that the clutch disk is in backwards?????

 

I live just east of national city north of the 54 area is called paradise hills san diego......

Clutch disc in backwards is extremely unlikely but we will all see when I take the clutch apart

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Add the washers first. Quick and easy and probably will solve the issue.