A big thank you goes out to Chudm71. He hooked me up with a steering box,column,wheel, pitman arm and drag link, new brake rods and some pedals. He even threw in an engine crank. It was great to meet you chad. Sorry I couldn't shoot the shit longer. I'll be hitting you up for that distributor soon, and maybe some of those wheels you have sitting around. Also thanks a ton to Tony for the pics you sent. I know that takes time from your day and I appreciate it.
Ok, so the motor turns over easily. I'm going to try to do a compression check but from what Chad was telling me yesterday it needs a head gasket and rings. Can I do an "in frame" of sorts? Pull the head, pistons and rods, put new rod bearings, rings and head gasket? I used a "honing" tool of sorts in auto shop 18 or so years ago on a drill. Maybe try to smooth out the bores with that if they don't look gouged? All while leaving it in the frame Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Yea that little thing is cool. Think I'll be keeping that. Thanks though. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Well I pulled the head today to have a look. Not to bad really, lots of carbon build up. Head gasket was fine but the compression loss in cyl one is a sticking valve. It doesn't open or close all the way. Pulled the side cover and it looks like the lifter doesn't travel as far up and down as the others. It could be a flat lobe or just stuck in the bore. I think ill go ahead and pull the motor. The cylinder walls look and feel awesome except for one dime size spot on #2 wall. I think a good cleaning and hone job is in order, maybe a 5 thou over bore if needed. That way I can see the cam and put all new bearings and gaskets. And being a hot rodder I'm already looking for a better head and down draft intake to put a 94 on.
Engine looks pretty good. You won't be putting new bearing in there though. The rod and main bearings are poured Babbitt rather than inserts like later stuff. You can send the rods out and have them re poured and bored
On an exchange basis from most A parts dealers. The mains however require a complete tear down and redo of the block. Good thing the bearings all have peel able shims so you can "adjust" them if necessary. For now check the clearances with plastigauge and see if you can get her fired after you get that valve working. Sounds like a great project. Tempts me to drag out my long sitting A engine and play with it. Ha
Cool thanks guys. I do know they are Babbitt bearings but I only found out last night that to put insert bearings in, the block has to be machined to accept them. I'm going to see if I can get the lifter unstuck and put a new head gasket and recheck compression to see if the rings are ok. I'll drop the pan and see how the rods and mains look. I'll have to research how to shim the Babbitt. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
It's not a cheap process to have this done. There are very few shops that'll do it also. Just a heads up.
It sounds like it is time to pay a visit to fordbarn.com I unstuck a lifter on a Model B by oiling it and letting the cam push it up and then tapping it down with a large screwdriver and SMALL hammer. Maybe I just got lucky. When I was finished the valves worked fine but the engine smoked a lot from bad rings. Charlie Stephens
That's my plan Charlie. Gonna sign up over there to get some insight to these little motors. I'm going to try to get it unstuck and see what happens. I have a feeling like you that the rings will be toast. Should I pull the Pistons and put rings on them and run a home through the cylinders. Will I mess up the babbit bearings by taking the rods loose?
Yea I was researching this last night. I going to try to get it going as is. If not I'll go from there. Thanks
Rings and a honing sound good. Maybe you get lucky with the babbit. Just like any motor don't mix up the rods and caps and don't swap holes with the assemblies. Be sure that the dippers point in the same direction they do now so they can scoop up the oil from the tray. Charlie Stephens
Stopped by the shop and dropped the pan. Looks pretty awesome. No slop in the rods. The first three Pistons will "wiggle" in the hole so I'm pretty sure the rings are shot. I did get the valve unstuck with a light tap. It looks to be moving pretty free now.
So here's my plan, I'm going to go a head and pull the motor out and take it to my house or the nice shop. Order a gasket set and rings. Pull the pistons, run a hone through and mic the cylinders to make sure they are round. Then put it all back together with an ansen single downdraft and reds header and holley 94. If I can find a B head I might go that direction. I'm not looking to get to crazy since I'm not "building" the motor. Just want a good runner to play with.
Nice frame and nice plan. I've heart that vw bug 009 distributor and a Blue Bosch coil is a good fit for an a-bone. A boattail speedster would be awesome. And the banger I a mule, simple, moderate top end and torque from the bottom. Can do great things, and last forever If kept properly.
Thanks for the replys guys. I'll get on it this weekend hopefully. I was looking at the distributor thinking it looked an awful lot like the one for my project karmann ghia. I have an old Mallory spotted for his one though.
I was looking into adding some zing to my banger, and considered a high compression head.Then I got talking to a machinist buddy and asked him"didn't they used to shave the head to pump up the compression?" Answer? YES. and he said the machine work would be about half what it cost for a Winfield head( which at the time was on backorder for months). Might not look as cool but I like to squeeze a nickel till a dime pops out!Like the way you're headed!
Another old saying is "Do it right the first time". I don't think you can get enough increase in the compression to make it worth milling the head. Might be a good question to post on fordbarn.com. I think you will find the answer is that the increase in compression that you need to make a difference comes from the redesigned combustion chamber. Charlie Stephens
Shit,I did it wrong AGAIN? Thanks for straightening me out, pardner.And now, back to HotRod 50's thread. ( I'll be the guy in the corner with the pointed hat on)
I was thinking the same thing mike. There's a ton of meat on the head. My only reservation is I'm not going with a full on build but a little bump in comp could help. I'll probably stick it back together as is with new rings and see what happens.
I agree that there is a ton of meat on the head. It looks at first glance that you wouldn’t miss an eighth inch. But if you look closer there are problems. The first problem is the thickness of the metal between the head surface and the water jacket. The first photo shows a high compression “Police” head for the Model A (I didn't have a regular head to photograph) that has been (in my opinion) surfaced too far. The second photo shows a close up of a couple of cracks. Although this head has a different combustion chamber you will have a problem in the same location with a regular Model A head. There are several areas around the head that will also be prone to cracking for the same reasion. The second problem (shown in the 3rd photo) is the recess for piston clearance. As you surface the head the depth of the recess decreases. If your block has been “decked” over the years the pistons will come above the surface of the block and need this recess. If you have a build up of tolerances (or a build up of carbon) you will need this this recess. Charlie Stephens
Great info Charlie. Thank you. I think I'll bolt the motor back together as is. If all looks good I'll get a high comp head from Snyders to go with a single 94 and lakes header.
Hey chad I was just thinking about you the other day. I'll holler and we'll get together on some more parts. Project is awaiting funds and getting my karmann ghia finished up. And deciding on what direction I'm going with it.
The Jalopy Journal
