Technical Alignment San Diego

I see a finger that is offset lower than the rest. Take a look at the picture and tell me if you think one of these is not like the other. Dont mind the spacing this is with the trans backed out a little. I was just reviewing pics I took last week and noticed the finger at the top

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Looks like a bad pressure plate to me!! Also there is no way the fingers should ever be that close to the disk with out being pushed in by the bearing. Take it out and set it on the floor. I am thinking there should be at least 1/2 inch between the fingers and the plate.

 

Yeah, I second that. Definitely looks like a broken spring or something in there.

Kurt

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Did not get the washers to work trying to remove clutch anyone know if the are reverse I am not getting any of the clutch cover bolts loose

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Missed that pic, doesn't look good the pressure plate bolts should onl be 35lbs , maybe they are lock tighted

 

Never heard of one with left hand threads, so it's not likely. My guess is whatever's keeping your clutch engaged is also putting a lot of extra load on those bolts. Use a six point, 1/2" drive socket (deep if you've got it), and a 1/2" drive breaker bar (my favorites about 24" long w/ a rubber grip) and bust'em loose. You may find that the engine wants to turn before they bust loose, if so, just wedge a large flat blade screwdriver into the teeth of the flywheel flush with the blocks starter mounting pad (you'll probably have to remove the starter if you haven't already). Do 't use a cheap, China made screw driver for this, it'll bend for sure!

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18 1/2 breaker worked. Anyone think the picture looks broken hahaha

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Head on down to pep boys

 

I've had amazingly good luck with these.....

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/zzz-mu1877-1

(Thjs particular on is for a 1989 S-10 4.3l.)

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Looks like you're on the final leg of the fix.

Now's a good time in inspect both the flywheel and clutch plate just to be sure, you don't want to be going through this again for years!

As for an alignment tool, a suitable diameter round bar (wood, metal) can be utilised with the appropriate diameters built up with masking tape - all you're doing is aligning the inside diameters of the pilot bush and the clutch plate. The splines in the clutch plate and the input shaft get aligned by wiggling the trans around a few degrees till it slides in.

Finally, on ***embly , you should be able to slide the trans onto the rear of the motor all the way without using force (like pulling it up with the bolts) - resistance in this respect could indicate that something is hanging up, like the pilot in the spigot or the clutch plate on the splines, but as it was working, kinda, before you're probably ok, but it's easy to remember what to and not to do!

The throwout bearing shouldn't be riding continually on the fingers of the pressure plate when disengaged, the smallest of gaps is sufficient.

Just mentioning these basics as it's easy to overlook any of them, and, as you're in unfamiliar territory any information is power.

Chris

 

Made it to southland clutch in national city awsome people gave me a few pointers as well as haveing the parts on hand. Going to take a few minutes and read back over this thread for all the tips people have posted and make sure and dot my I s and cross my t s.

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Looking at your pic where the hell is the disk that is supposed to be on the pressure plate??????

 

awesome!
hope you're 54 is back on the road real soon. Did you pick up an alignment tool when you were at southland?

 

Haha no worries I got that as well.

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Yeah I picked the tool up as well as new set of hardware

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Good news and bad news. new clutch is installed. No problem disengaging but alot of problems driving. Hope someone has a trick for this. The fork adjusted as far as it can go but there is still to much pressure on the clutch when it is time to apply power it over reves and barley moves makeing the pedal adjustments helped but I have no more adjustment space. There is no pedal free travel and the clutch disengages fully at about 1inch of pressure.

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Which throwout bearing did you use? I'm guessing the longer one and it sounds like you really needed the shorter one. You know what this means? Yup, you get to get into it again.

There should be no contact or pressure on the clutch cover fingers when the pedal is not depressed. If there is the clutch is not being allowed to disengage properly and this will result in the slippage when power is applied, like you're experiencing.

Chris

 

I was afraid someone was going to suggest that I go back to the short throwout haha. Yeah the throwout is so tight against the clutch that I can not even force it off of the fingers. The fork angle was so extreme with the short throwout that I was hoping there would be another solution maybe a throwout out that is not so long and not so short the average of the two would be nice. Also I noticed on other threads that people have a few different styles of pedal adjustment arms. Note I totally got the throwout spaceing advice you gave in an earlier post backwards I thought you were saying no gap but after reading again I see i read it wrong.

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Yeah, your definitely going to have to go back in it. I can't remember now, is the pivot bolt for the yoke adjustable, or is it one of the fixed ones? If fixed, did you change it when you went to the longer throw out bearing? Since your not using a stock application here, an adjustable pivot ball might be a good idea, no matter which T/O bearing you end up using, it will help correct that geometry issue with the linkage (but fair warning, when you correct that, you might find you need a new push rod for the yoke.)

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Is there any changes you can make on the linkage?
On my car the "offset rod" has a couple of different notches where the "link" would attach.
Mine was on the wrong notch and worked fine. I imagine you might be able to move it to gain some more adjustment to keep the bearing from riding the pressure plate all the time.

 

I think youre gonna be ok with the bearing you have in there now.
This picture you posted in the beginning just is not right. You can see they even tried to make up for the shorter bearing by shimming the pivot.

 

Not adjustable. With the long in I use a simple washer and with the short in I was using a few body shims to help the geometry.

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After looking at the drawing and reviewing the old pics of your linkage, I think you should be ok with the long bearing as well. Have you adjusted where the fork and linkage part #0.787 come together? As long as you don't run out of threads, you should be able to loosen the nut closest to the front of the car, and tightening the rear one will effectively move the throw out bearing away from the clutch. Make sure you keep the pedal at the top of its travel while you do this (the spring should take care of that), and you don't need a real big gap, just enough to ensure the throw out bearing doesn't contact the pressure plate. When adjusted correctly, the fork should be parallel to the front mounting face of the transmission / bellhousing (or, in your case, the adapter plate).


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I am out of thread. I think the part I have is out of a truck I may have better luck if I can find the link out of a car

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Can you estimate how much further you need to go to release contact with the pressure plate. And is it close to the difference
in the length between the two throw out bearings ( allowing for the ratio of the fork itself)?


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Ok .... Stop ... If your arm with the short bearing was at a steep angle , I believe they compensated by making the adjuster longer , I believe this steep angle is what caused the throw out bearing to over center and get stuck thus destroying the fingers on the clutch any doubt on what I am saying please talk to the guys at southland clutch, if I remember right the throwout used has to do with the clutch fork not clutch early Chevy were flat like you have , later ones were sheet metal and curved thus a short bearing was used this is a late model

 

Early

 

Mine has only one position but I believe if I had the one shown in your picture I would be ok. The one I have is about 90 degrees and long. Believe is was used on 54 trucks. The picture I have seen of other cars show a more obtuse angle and a shorter adjustment space but its possible tha the wider angle would fix my problem

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Maybe I'm confused. But couldn't you just bend that thing or cut and weld it? Does the throw out bearing not touch the pressure plate with the linkage disconnected?


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Yeah cut weld and heat are not in my bag of tricks yet but yes I think it could be done no problem

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