Very cool indeed!!! I am also intrested in the hinges. I did the same thing with my front discs. But, I never thought to use strap around the backing plate. What size strap did you use? Looks like two sizes of strap in the photo's. What did you use to fill in the wheel cylinder hole? Keep us updated. Your post was very informative and motivating. Thanks!!!! Aloha, rustfarmer
For Dirty31, the trunk hinges are hood hinges off a Ford Tempo. Removed the stop that limits the opening and cut a small notch in the arms, retaining the bend lip along the edge, for clearance so the trunk would open a bit further. Think they should look OK with a coat of paint. For KevinLee, The mounts arn't rocket science by any means. Give me a bit of time and I will put together a bit of a write up on a How To. Didn't take much in the way of pictures during construction but I should be able to fake it. Canuck
len m don't think it will be ready for BTTFs this year, just have to take the Malibu again, Oh Well the 406 needs the exercise. 29EHV8 the truck is loaded, will be loading the coupe on the car hauler in the morning if it is not TOO COLD. Please send me your address, will be there to start work Monday What did you say the temperature was again. muffman58 they are just backing plates used as a dust cover. The brakes are disk using a Magnum adapter. rustfarmer The backing plates have a piece of ( I think) 1 1/2" x .125 strap welded to the edge ot the backing plate. The seam is covered with a piece of 1/2" x .188 strap. The master cylinder filler is a frost plug I scrounged from my machine shop. The master cylinder mounting holes will be filled with cap screws. The end result is kind of a brake drum appearance if you do not look too close. The intent was to hide the rotor. Thanks for all the kind word guys. A lot of you are on my list of builders of my inspiration cars. Canuck
Nice job... though I don't agree with the Nailhead is huge part Yes they are long, but they are narrower than most comparable V8's.. Keep it up..
By far my favourite thread in a long time! Awsome work,and I cant wait to see the progress.You WILL keep us updated? Koolkemp
Thread rating: HAMBilicious! Note to self: Read all of threads from Canuck. A Tip of the Viper Top Hat to you, my friend. I'll print this out for my Luddite friends chili, thumbs WAY up.
Bump for an update. This is a nice build, great ideas and workmanship. Any further progress to share?
WOW, very cool!! You do some fantastic fabrication in you small garage ;-) Can't wait to see an update!!
Well it has been a long time since my original post on my coupe build and have had a few requests for an update. Seem to be spending a lot of time working on it, but when I look there doesn't seem to be much progress. Spending a lot of time on little things that cars need like brakes, steering and suspension parts. Anyhow here is what is happening. Require a defrost system for the windshield to register a car here, so I started with a old aftermarket heater that a friend gave me (Thanks Bob). Kept the front and made a new back with two defrost ducts and a mount area for a couple of small 12 volt motors, resistor and switch. Decided the bottom needed something so made a louvered panel to weld in. of course had to make dies to punch the louvers to make the panel . Still pending a wrinkle black paint job and polish of the raised areas on the front. Made up a gas pedal that replicates the old s**** style on the inside and on the engine side has a vertically mounted return spring and mount for one of the SP400 control switches. Cut down a 70s GM van column to give me a tilt (so there is room to get between the wheel and door post) and column shift. Cut the tube and shift tube about 4" and the steering shaft 2" and milled a DD with my low cost mill ( grinder and a jig). Also cut the shift lever off and set it up so it would bolt on so I could get it through the firewall mounting sleeve. Of course the dash end of the column still needed something so took a hunk of steel and hit it with my trusty drill press and my low cost mill and ended up with this and then Using a GM Astro Van intermediate shaft to connect the column to steering box, two universals and vibration damper all in one. Decided to use an F1 brake pedal mount. Cut the shaft down and ash canned the clutch lever and made up a mounting bracket/ master cylinder mount adapter. Mounted a 41 Chevy emergency brake lever under the dash on the left side. Bought a steering damper from Eric at Riley Auto, but decided the radius rod end needed a welded-in threaded plug and a Heim end instead of P&J's clamp or a overall better mount ] and the tie rod end needed a nicer clamp, so out with the old drill press and low cost mill again. Took a holiday trip last spring and stopped at the Pomona Swap Meet and sourced a Desert Cooler rad for a smoking deal from Rick's Radiator (Thanks Rick). The body work progresses slowly (did I say I don't like body work, probably because I don't know enough about it). To finish off the inside of the reversed firewall and hide the sound deadening and insulation I made a fibergl*** replica that will be mounded with 1" standoffs. Has molded in ribs to match the engine side of the firewall. Also starting on the fuse panel that will mount above the recessed area of the firewall. As part of the trunk lid hinge modification, the support arm wasn't long enough so had to make a longer version. The window regulators were pretty well toast so a low buck solution was required. A little cutting and welding and a set of Jeep Cherokee regulators look like they were made for the car. (piece of chip board taking the place of the window) Using 28 fenders on the car, but decided to use the 30 headlight bar even though it is too long. To help with the fit, made up a jig and a little heat here and there and voila a dropped headlight bar the old way. The dash has been replaced with a dash from a 34 Chevy Master, still needs some finishing to make it look factory, extend the top closer to the windshield and punch some louvers for the defrost system, make up a new instrument mounting panel for the old SW gauges. The centre sub rail was notched and an access door built in for the master cylinder. New drip rails have been made for the roof to replace the ones that are starting to rust between the rails and the roof. Still pending installation. A new air cleaner is waiting for modifications to fit the carb and get rid of the oil bath bits and pieces and get a new dry element. Should look good with the 53 valve covers and spark plug wire covers and Offy Breathers. All I need there is a 60s vintage 364/401 valley cover with a draft tube fitting and thermostat housing to complete that area. For a change of pace, working on the fender fitment. Bobbed the rears about 4 1/4" and redid the wire edge. The rest of the fenders will be stock 28 with all the support brackets the cast steel ones used in 28. Well that's about it to date. Trying to get a lot of fitting done so I can splash some primer on before the cold weather returns. Canuck
really nice work so far... any info on your "low cost mill"? seems to really get the job done- in the right hands of course.
You got some SERIOUS fabrication skills young man, and real VISION to see what needs doing! Wish you were closer to me! I couldn't do that kind of stuff even if I had a whole machine shop! Keep it coming! Perley
'Nuther bump for another update? Great ideas and great workmanship. More, please. It's only been two years...
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